Dad bought one real cheap ($30 I think) at an auction one time. The buyer had to remove it from the basement.Aunt and uncle passed and wife was the executrix and she had to dispose of a Diebold floor safe in the basement. I don't even want to get into that fiasco except to say it weighed well over 2 tons and it wasn't on wheels either.
All good respected questions. So I’m waiting for hvac and electrical to be completed so I can cut my 1/4” sheets as needed. I’ve about decided to just go 2x 1/2” durock and 1x 5/8 Sheetrock then stud. This way no worry of extreme heat through to Sheetrock or stud and this should give very good thermal protection against fire as well.No pics, so we're all just "flailing about".
How much of the welding actually backs up against a stud?
Can you have someone on the other side to dowse the stud if it does happen to contact the red metal? It seems like the weld aligning with a stud would be a seldom occurrence.
The stud can be pre-wetted by your helper.
You can slip a sheet of roofing flashing as a heat-shield between the stud and the weld.
Your helper could hold a scrap stud TESTER agains the backside of your weld and you will know exactly what happens to the wood.
And what about skipping a couple inches where the weld aligns with a stud?
Yeah the backers will be permanent.Whatever you find and use you should leave it in place for permanent fire protection. My experience with safes is that it doesn't take much to protect from theft, the real issue is fire and heat protection. that metal box will have almost no fire and heat protection without something layered around it. Also, even the best safes don't protect documents(paper) from fire and heat. Those are best stored inside a small fire safe inside your larger safe.