welding bolts to remove them.

[k0ua]

I have used the hand impact, tool and of course the air impact many times, but the welding nut on technique was one that I will file away, and take out when needed.. good tip's as usual thanks.

James K0UA

 

[KubotainNH]

I bought a 1964 BSA 650 Lightning Rocket in 1969. I got to go to BSA Service School that year. Without a hand-held impact driver, it would have been a hopeless task to work on those old bikes without doing damage and taking an advanced course in easy-outs.

I bought my impact driver to split the cases on an old Hodaka dirt bike. It was a must have.

I put the nose on my 1/2" impact, much better, gets 90% of them out fine by working them in a out.

Hmm, good idea when needed.

I have used the hand impact, tool and of course the air impact many times, but the welding nut on technique was one that I will file away, and take out when needed.. good tip's as usual thanks.

Agreed, I like the idea I just think the impact driver is better for this task. Lots of plastic in there.

 

[North West Farmer]

4shorts,

Your information on the shelter you acquired for your Kubota and pick-up by Shelterlogic appears to provide a number of very realistic options to help my oldest son and I acquire a very good structure to cover our trailers.

I checked out ShelterLogic and we have numerous dealers and suppliers in our local area that should be able to provide assistance in acquiring the cover we need.

That said, thank you very much for the information and I will quickly clear this thread so participants can get back removing bolts.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[Short Game]

NWF, I'm 70 miles N.W. of Portland. I was given a used 22X20 SL garage. Because the whole thing is a moisture barrier, everything stored in it, here in the coastal hills, molded or rusted. Everything stayed wet, as all the moisture coming up from the ground stayed inside. I have a cheap 10X20 fabric carport with a well ventilated ridge for my tractor with both ends always open, and that works well. I put the SL garage up on ten foot posts and use it for a roof over a pretty much open-sided area and that works well that way. All that said, the UV resistance of SL's fabric seems really good, as I have gotten years from what was a used cover in the first place.

 

[4shorts]

4shorts,

Your information on the shelter you acquired for your Kubota and pick-up by Shelterlogic appears to provide a number of very realistic options to help my oldest son and I acquire a very good structure to cover our trailers.

I checked out ShelterLogic and we have numerous dealers and suppliers in our local area that should be able to provide assistance in acquiring the cover we need.

That said, thank you very much for the information and I will quickly clear this thread so participants can get back removing bolts.

Nick, North West Farmer

No problem Nick. Glad to have helped in some small way. When I installed the thing I welded steel plates to the legs and used a ground rod driver to drive 5/8th x 42" re bar rods down into the ground and then welded over the re-bar to the plates. The other day we were getting gusts of wind here in excess of 90 km's and the thing didn't budge.
Yes I've head of condensation inside these types of shelters but my buddy has a steel shed and it drips water inside.

This one has been up for 6 weeks now and there has been zero condensation inside and I live on an island where there's been nothing but rain, drizzle and for since then. Two things that are to my advantage. I placed the shelter on pavement and not grass or gravel. If you go to put one up and it's on gravel or grass I recommend you place plastic on the ground and park your machine on top of the plastic. I've seen many do it that way and it works.

I also have my front and rear panel up off the ground about 3" and when your inside you can feel the air buy your feet so there is some circulation going through.

One think i will be doing and that's adding a sacrificial tarp to the shelter and a net on top of that. It will keep the UV rays off the main cover.

My apologies to the original poster for butting in here. I'm just trying to help out a TBN member.
Nick If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM. Cheers, Paul

 

[North West Farmer]

Short Game and 4shorts,

Thank you guys for the heads up on the moisture problem potential. I will definitely put a high priority on dealing with that issue.

I do have a large metal building, part or which is my shop with a concrete floor and it has no problems with interior condensation. The open machinery storage area with gravel floors does have some dripping after a freeze and the thaw water drips in that area, even though the south side is completely open for machinery in and out access.

Who ever we work with in acquiring the structure will need to work with us and be able to convince us fully that the moisture problem is being dealt with or we will move along to find a source that is able to work with us and overcome the condensation potential.

Nick, North West Farmer

 

[Stampeder]

Hand impact driver first X2.

I hate to admit this but mine is almost 50 years old. I have removed countless door strikers with it. I bought mine just after I got my first motorcycle. The stories are told by others here as to how necessary these little gems are when working on motorcycles.

Also, PB blaster is your friend.

By the way. There is a little trick to using them. You have to apply torsional hand pressure while hitting it in the direction of extraction. Very important!

I've got a bunch of easy outs as well. Not worth crap in this application.

If the hand impact simply doesn't do the job then I would certainly go to Paul's method. Best one I've ever seen.

Good luck.