welding bolts to remove them.

[4shorts]

4shorts,

I need your garage building or something like it. My oldest son and I are having one heck of a time determining where we are going to put our equipment this winter. We presently have a 5th wheel RV trailer and a flat bed goose neck, rear ramp trailer that both need a home and we only have one bay left.

Unfortunately we are in excess of 3000 miles apart and even though it is not the subject of this thread could you pass along some info. on that structure. There might be an outlet for that company on our side of the world that could help us with a weather resistant structure.

I apologize to the thread participants for getting off the subject, but that garage in Newfoundland in those pictures looks to be just the ticket for our trailer winter storage.

Nick, North West Farmer

Nick if it's the new shelter I just put up it's made by Shelterlogic. I went with this design due to it's shape. I did make some changes to the installation to keep it planted firmly to the ground. Mine measures 10 x 24 x 12. Here's a video of it.


Shelterlogic for the Kubota.wmv - YouTube

 

[boggen]

have you tried BP blaster yet. to help remove the rusting. spray some on. let it set for a couple hours, spray some more on. let it sit over night, in morning spray a little more on. at min it would help remove the rusting. to make what ever you due try, a bigger chance of getting the screws out with less force.

 

[BrianR]

If they are so bad that the screw head gets chewed up, even after using a hand held impact driver, I will center drill the bolt with a 1/8" drill bit and try to get it out with an easy-out tool.

If that fails, then I resort to tig welding a grade 5 bolt, usually 1/4-20, to the screw head and turn it out with a wrench. Obviously both of my methods will require new fasteners.

You could always just drill the screw head off entirely and punch the latch out......an obvious worst case scenario, requiring a donor latch assembly!

 

[Soundguy]

or just drill out and keep drilling out till you can pick the threads out.. BTDT on many a casting on a tractor... have to be a lil more carefull on a stamping though.. drill straight!


soundguy

 

[deereman75]

I have found the best thing to get stuck bolts off is the gunk liquid wrench. I was restoring a vintage engine, and a brass fule fitting was stuck so hard that when we put a pipe wrench on it and beat on it with a hammer, and all it did was chew up the brass. We then sprayed a little gunk liquid wrench on it, and put a normal open end wrench on it, whacked it a few times with a block of wood, and it came right off. I would probably try soaking it with that before you start welding things on it.

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like the head has already given way. I think it's past the penetrant stage...


soundguy

 

[KubotainNH]

My first choice would be a hand impact. Critical your bit is new or in new condition and fits like a glove. Yes, you can use a air impact but very touchy and too easy to strip the head out.

Used one of these on many crappy screws. They usually fit nice and tight and when you hit it you get a pushing/turning force at the same time that also jars the locked threads. I sometimes use mine as a regular screwdriver because it fits so snuggly and is easier to grab than a regular screwdriver.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

 

[deepNdirt]

Used one of these on many crappy screws. They usually fit nice and tight and when you hit it you get a pushing/turning force at the same time that also jars the locked threads. I sometimes use mine as a regular screwdriver because it fits so snuggly and is easier to grab than a regular screwdriver.

My first experience with attempting to get stuck and reamed screws heads out and I'm sure almost everyone who has ever tried to has done the same, I used to help with restoring and customizing cars/trucks,vans, and when i would re-carpet them it required that I remove the aluminum thresh hold that held the carpet edge down in the door jamb, These stainless steel screws are almost always full of packed in grime and or rusty, and at first when using a standard + screwdriver I would wind up reaming out the head making it even more difficult to get the screws out, You would be surprised on how much fuss the owner of cars would make over nasty-ing up the heads of the original screws from a '69 Chevy SS collectors car..... I learned right quick about the impact driver and how useful it can be in this kind of situation,
I've not been without it in my toolbox since :thumbsup:

 

[Short Game]

I bought a 1964 BSA 650 Lightning Rocket in 1969. I got to go to BSA Service School that year. Without a hand-held impact driver, it would have been a hopeless task to work on those old bikes without doing damage and taking an advanced course in easy-outs.

 

[slowzuki]

I have had several vehicles like that and also live in the rust belt. I bought the hammer impact, not great, so I put the nose on my 1/2" impact, much better, gets 90% of them out fine by working them in a out. If you just go out they bind on the rusty threads and snap the head off.

Other option is cold chisel on the perimeter in the unscrewing direction. The side load often frees them up.