Welding Cast to Mild Steel

[Bill_C]

There's a good chance this is cast steel, not cast iron. Cast steel can be readily welded, though I'm not an expert. Preheat with the torch would most likely be appropriate. Nickel rods, as already mentioned, help because they make the weld ductile enough to withstand the stresses of cooling.

Still, though, I concur with the the opinion that it'd be better to fabricate suitable mounting brackets and bolt it on.

 

[theonlybull]

it could be brazed on with success, if you had a competent welder doin it. a proper brazing job, will hold as much as the cast iron.

but, as other's said. make it bolt on. it will be safer, and won't distort the casting, as welding will

 

[patrick_g]

There are high nickel content flux coated electrodes made specifically for stick welding cast iron. Preheating with O-A is recommended.

That said... the suggestions about welding a bracket and bolting or clamping to the bracket instead of welding to the cast iron ARE WAY BETTER THAN WELDING TO THE CAST IRON.

Even if there are no bolt holes in the cast piece you can weld up a "CUSTOM HOLDER/ADAPTOR" to hold the part securely as others mentioned. DON'T WELD THE CAST.

Uhh, what kinda buggy you runnin? I have a 62 Bug cut down 14 inches and with a knock off of a Meyers Manx Dune/Beach buggy F/G body. Sure wish it was IRS BUS equipment instead of swing axle. I need higher ratio rear diff for better control at lower speeds but the "SUPER DIFF" prices are crazy.

Pat

 

[earthface]

Cast Iron can be welded to mild steel by using Stainless Steel 308 L rod DC. Although I would NOT do it on any safety related parts;(( If it is cast steel box it can be welded by standard steel rod safely.

 

[bx23barry]

If you are into off roading go here: http://www.pirate4x4.com

 

[Rgillard]

Uhh, what kinda buggy you runnin? I have a 62 Bug cut down 14 inches and with a knock off of a Meyers Manx Dune/Beach buggy F/G body. Sure wish it was IRS BUS equipment instead of swing axle. I need higher ratio rear diff for better control at lower speeds but the "SUPER DIFF" prices are crazy.

Pat

I am building a Sabretooth buggy from www.badlandbuggy.com Its my first buggy so its kind of a learning curve. Only really have a welder and a grinder so all the notching was done with the grinder which was painful. Got the bending done by a friend and most of the parts are salvaged from an ATV( who someone stole the CDI off an a replacement was 400 euro ) and my old car. I hope to have it finished in the next month and then build a proper one. Have a MIG ordered and going to buy a pipe bender and a tube notcher. Great pass time...

 

[Rgillard]

Taking peoples advise I knocked up this bracket to hold the steering rack in position. I got a piece of pipe which luckily was the perfect size to slide over where the boot seals should be. I then welded this to the bottom plate using a piece of 3/4" box mild steel. The rack is also bolted to the bottom plate using a m12 bolt which I havent got yet. I hope that this wll keep it secured whilst braving the mud..

 

[HGM]

I like the bracket... I think it would be much safer than simply welding the box to the frame....

Got a question though.. Is it just the pictures, or has the rack been cut and welded? Looks like some heat marks on the r/h side of the pic and on the left, it looks as though it had been cut and welded.. From the last pic, it even looks like it may be out of phase a bit from left to right... Just curious as it would cause steering troubles/binding.. Also, I would question the strength of the rack after being heated... I dont know much about welding a rack, but it sounds like a ,not so good idea. ...

 

[Rgillard]

The left side of the rack was shortened because on a car the steering wheel is on the right hand side (In Ireland anyway) and therfore the rack is also off center. In order to steer both wheels the left side is longer than the right. This didn't suit my setup so I cut the extra length out of it and rewelded the end which is threaded to take the tie rods. I did a pretty good weld on it so hopefully it will be ok. I hope I didnt weaken the body by heating and welding it but ill keep an eye on it. If i find its weakened I'll change it as safety is numero uno at this sort of thing...

 

[HGM]

The left side of the rack was shortened because on a car the steering wheel is on the right hand side (In Ireland anyway) and therfore the rack is also off center. In order to steer both wheels the left side is longer than the right. This didn't suit my setup so I cut the extra length out of it and rewelded the end which is threaded to take the tie rods. I did a pretty good weld on it so hopefully it will be ok. I hope I didnt weaken the body by heating and welding it but ill keep an eye on it. If i find its weakened I'll change it as safety is numero uno at this sort of thing...

I wish you luck with it.... I was just a bit curious... Let us know how the final product comes out..