Welding D rings to rear frame member of 18 + 2 14,000 PJ equipment trailer

[Gem99ultra]

Not quite the same load as you're hauling, but with my 20' PJ I added removable D-rings to use in the rear stake pockets. I had bought regular D-rings to weld in place as you are wanting to do, but discovered there just wasn't anything solid enough on the rear flooring retainer.

I'm hoping that I never have to find out for sure if the stake pockets are strong enough!

 

[BWSwede]

I too am using stake pocket D rings in the rear most stake pockets but they just are not far enough rearward. I was hoping to hear that you had come up with a solution to welding rings to the rear piece of steel on the trailer.

I use a second set of tie-downs when hauling my tractor. If anything happens to the primary chain tie-downs I also install a set of nylon straps that has two straps from the frame straight forward to the front of the trailer and two straps from the frame to the rear of the trailer. The idea with the straps is just to keep the tractor from rolling forward or rearward long enough for me to notice the primary set of chains have been compromised.

Thanks for the reply.

Blane

 

[3Ts]

I too am using stake pocket D rings in the rear most stake pockets but they just are not far enough rearward. I was hoping to hear that you had come up with a solution to welding rings to the rear piece of steel on the trailer.

My trailer as delivered only had 1 stake pocket behind the rear axle so I cut it off and moved it and added another stake pocket so I now have one as far to the rear as it will go. For that matter a flat bar with a hole in it welded to the frame at the rear will probably be the best that can be done.

 

[3Ts]

I can't upload a picture, but in your 2nd picture, I'm assuming the flat bar at the back is for your ramps. If they are supported only there, it should be strong enough to use as a tie down point and you should be able to weld the D-ring to that.

 

[ovrszd]

View attachment 668038

Maybe something like this? The green outline is a plate you could weld in to make the things level with the rear frame member. Pink would be the D ring.

Nice!!! I really like that solution!!!

 

[Reb954]

Is there a reason you can't run your chain as shown in the picture? Just hook under the main frame, behind the bracket for your stiff leg and on up to the tractor? There isn't much difference between doing that and welding a D-ring on top of the frame.

 

[BWSwede]

Thanks for all the ideas guys.

"I can't upload a picture, but in your 2nd picture, I'm assuming the flat bar at the back is for your ramps. If they are supported only there, it should be strong enough to use as a tie down point and you should be able to weld the D-ring to that."

This idea, or a form of this idea, has crossed my mind. I am wondering in lieu of welding a D ring to the ramp support bar that I might be able to find a flat hook with a piece of chain attached to it that I can attach my load binder to. If it looks like that load could twist the end metal I could weld a strut from it across the top of the wood decking to the heavy piece of steel where the dovetail connects to the flat part of the trailer. That would not only help prevent rotation of the steel but would also help from pulling the metal at the rear of the trailer forward.


"Is there a reason you can't run your chain as shown in the picture? Just hook under the main frame, behind the bracket for your stiff leg and on up to the tractor? There isn't much difference between doing that and welding a D-ring on top of the frame."

I would like the attachment point to be further behind the tractor. You wouldn't have known this unless I had posted a picture, but the rear of the tractor is very close to the rear of the trailer. I have to do this to put the weight over the trailer axles and to keep the tongue weight under 2400 pounds.



As a side note, I was concerned about the weight on the axles so when I arrived at my destination after a 75 minute (most highway) drive I checked the temperature of the hubs they were only 98 degrees plus or minus a couple (70 degree day).

Thanks again,
Blane

 

[dstig1]

Back the tractor on. It will move your balance point forward, in many cases. This may reposition it for better access to points of securing it.

 

[4570Man]

Back the tractor on. It will move your balance point forward, in many cases. This may reposition it for better access to points of securing it.

Unless your trailer is like 30 feet it’s probably too short to not load it too tongue heavy.

 

[dstig1]

Unless your trailer is like 30 feet it’s probably too short to not load it too tongue heavy.

Mine was 16', which is too short for a Gran L with loader, but it worked well for me for the time I had it. I think 22-24' would be an optimal length for tractors my size.