OP
Welding work today
- Thread starter Reyer Farms
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Arc weld
Veteran Member
Finger nailing is when the coating burns off uneven. Sometimes it's because of bad rods. I made a scarifier out of a heavy 12" H beam. I beveled the beam (like a cutting edge) and then welded backhoe teeth shanks on. I welded all around the shanks with 3/16" 7018. To weld the back of the adapters inside the H beam was a little tricky. I had to bend the rod to fit between the 2 flanges and then had to have the rod almost vertical down because the web was in the way at the back. I struck an arc and then transferred the arc to the shank and kind of let gravity pull the weld down to the beam. It was a blind weld as I couldn't see the puddle. Experience gave me a good idea on how the weld was progressing. It's hard to explain it but you basically get the flux to burn off on an angle. If you just had the arc on the beam, you wouldn't get much weld on the shank. It's easy enough to practice this type of weld though. Put a small piece of plate on top of another plate and see if you can get a nice fillet weld with the rod almost vertical.
OP
Reyer Farms
Platinum Member
Thank you ArcWeld.
See what I mean about walking puddle over to bucket. The quarters were tight and the blind beads were not the best looking. So...
There better not have been any undercut!
Next victim... Patch it up and back to thicket. Overhaul later after he does all the damage.
This guy has been a good customer over the past few years. He is rough on his stuff but believes in servicing.
See what I mean about walking puddle over to bucket. The quarters were tight and the blind beads were not the best looking. So...
There better not have been any undercut!
Next victim... Patch it up and back to thicket. Overhaul later after he does all the damage.
This guy has been a good customer over the past few years. He is rough on his stuff but believes in servicing.
Shield Arc
Super Member
Now those are some picture perfect welds!:thumbsup: Where's Chad22?
groundcover
Veteran Member
Had to use an old truck mirror to see the back of a 2" heat pipe one time to see the puddle, that took a bit of getting used to?:laughing:
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Looks like he needs a railroad track for a bumper on the back of that hog to keep from caving in the frame. I though I was rough on stuff, but this guy has me beat all to heck.Thank you ArcWeld.
View attachment 364338
See what I mean about walking puddle over to bucket. The quarters were tight and the blind beads were not the best looking. So...
View attachment 364339
There better not have been any undercut!
View attachment 364340
Next victim... Patch it up and back to thicket. Overhaul later after he does all the damage.
View attachment 364342
This guy has been a good customer over the past few years. He is rough on his stuff but believes in servicing.
View attachment 364340
View attachment 364341
I take it you run a welding shop, so guys like that are your bread and butter I suppose.
Shield Arc
Super Member
I had to do that in school. We had to place the pipe 6-inches from the wall, and 6-inches from the ceiling, place a mirror on the back side, and Tig weld the pipe.
All the Navy shipyard weldors here do that all the time!
All the Navy shipyard weldors here do that all the time!
OP
Reyer Farms
Platinum Member
Gary- this guy is easy on his stuff compared to my normal lot!
The guy with the hoe is as tough as I've ever seen. His son and I have a running joke about stuff being "Phil tested". I have a small shop and mobile service. It's nothing fancy, dirt floor.
crackerjack222
Silver Member
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- 4430, Ford 7000, MF235
Since this is a welding thread and I did not want to start another thread.... I have a question.
I have a grade 5, 5/8"bolt broken off in the frame of my JD 555 track loader. Normally I would try to weld something onto it to get it out but this one is going to be difficult to get to. The broken bolt is in the frame. There is a 3/4" thick plate on top of it so the broken bolt surface is 3/4" down in the hole. Also there is a 3/4" thick triangle gusset about 3" inches from where the head of the bolt should be. This gusset blocks straight on access to the hole. Failing any other plan, my plan was to drill a hole through the gusset and then drill out the broken bolt through that hole.
If there was some way to weld on to the broken bolt; like maybe clamping a 1/2" bolt in my welding rod holder and stabbing it onto the broken bolt. Would that weld the 1/2" bolt to the 5/8"? I would insulate the shaft of the 1/2"n bolt to keep it from arcing to the side of the hole.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I have a grade 5, 5/8"bolt broken off in the frame of my JD 555 track loader. Normally I would try to weld something onto it to get it out but this one is going to be difficult to get to. The broken bolt is in the frame. There is a 3/4" thick plate on top of it so the broken bolt surface is 3/4" down in the hole. Also there is a 3/4" thick triangle gusset about 3" inches from where the head of the bolt should be. This gusset blocks straight on access to the hole. Failing any other plan, my plan was to drill a hole through the gusset and then drill out the broken bolt through that hole.
If there was some way to weld on to the broken bolt; like maybe clamping a 1/2" bolt in my welding rod holder and stabbing it onto the broken bolt. Would that weld the 1/2" bolt to the 5/8"? I would insulate the shaft of the 1/2"n bolt to keep it from arcing to the side of the hole.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Shield Arc
Super Member
No that won't work. You're better off to drill a hole in the gusset, drill a hole in the broken bolt, and use an easy out. If you can put heat around the broken bolt just before using the easy out, that helps a lot!