Well again! What else can it be? FRUSTRATED!

[clovergamecock]

Sorry I meant include that in my response. I have not seen any milkyness or lots of air bubbles. The pressure just gradually goes down till it hits 0 and I have no water at the house or the well head.

Wade

 

[Dr Dave]

you might try the garden hose down the casing as someone suggested.

 

[SPYDERLK]

With no occasional milkiness I hesitate to conclude that you are pumping the well down. Without that conclusion extending the pipe is still a hi effort proposition for low predicted benefit. At this point you need to find the more sure direction.
.... Go back and.set up the tank at 38psi air precharge on top with the tank bladder empty. Set your pressure switch closure point anywhere above that pressure. Turn on power. Water pressure should immediately rise to 38psi and rise in perhags 30sec, or more, to cutoff pressure. Bleed water until pump cuts on again. Note pressure. If too hi turn off power. Lower pressure adj 1turn. Lift the pressure sensing lever the spring pushes until contacts open. Bleed water til contacts close. ... Repeat until they close at the right pressure ~40. Turn on Power and use water while you monitor pressure and pump cycling. It shoud work.
larry

 

[turnkey4099]

The pressure switch should be monitoring pressure on the water side - not the air side. So, too high air pressure would fully deplete the water before the pump would come on. If watching a water side gauge the indicated pressure would plummet as the last water was exhausted - then jump to preload pressure as the pump came on. It sorta sounds like this might be part of it if I interpret OP corrrectly.
larry

Yep, you are correct. It sounds like the OP is now on the right track to sort it out.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Thanks all. No matter how much I hate to, I GIVE!!! A couple more questions. If I extend the line by 10' can I just use a connection to add to it? If I do extend the pipe by the 10' would that or could that give it the additional time to recover?

Wade

Yes, but not by much. a 6" casing doesn't hold a lot of water per foot length.

Harry K

 

[Western]

One idea to try and see if the well is running low on water. Connect a short garden hose as close to the tank/well head as possible and run the water back into the well casing. Basically replenishing the supply. The pump should continue to run the water in a "loop" re-supplying itself. If it still cuts off you may have an overheating pump.
.

I 'll re-post this, since I think it is something easy for you to try that may isolate your problem. Also a possibility if the well is running dry, you should get air spurts at the hose. The air will want to rise.

 

[scott_vt]

Yes, but not by much. a 6" casing doesn't hold a lot of water per foot length.

Harry K

Good Afternoon Harry,
Going back to the beginning of the thread the OP stated that hi static level was 60ft. He mentioned a well depth of 322 ft. So thats 260 ft of water minus the pump depth at 20 ft off the bottom, giving hom 480 to 500 gals of reserve... 1 1/2 gals per t Thats quite a bit of water for just domestic use.

Ive read through the thread, and didnt see any mention of GPM return rate, but Im finding it hard to believe that he is actually running out of water. On a guess, and only a guess it almost sounds as if there is an issue with the pump.

Just a comment, by lowering the pump 10 ft, your only going to get about another 15 gals of reserve, and usually pump guys are not big on splicing in another section of pipe...

 

[radioman]

There is one other possibility that no one has mentioned. foot valve is clogged or bad. What this means is you need to dig up the well head and pull out the pipes. When you reach the end, you will need to inspect/clean foot valve- maybe replace. This would explain the zero pressure on well side of lines.

 

[IkeRoberts]

I,ve read this thread over the last few days and the only thing that struck me as odd was no check valve. There should be a check valve between the pressure tank and the well. Usually right before the well pipe goes into the water storage tank. The reason for this valve is to eliminate back pressure pushing on the foot valve and making it stick closed. In the closed and stuck position, you get no water. Just install a check valve and solve the problem. Have you well man do it. He carries them in his truck.

 

[mbohuntr]

I,ve read this thread over the last few days and the only thing that struck me as odd was no check valve. There should be a check valve between the pressure tank and the well. Usually right before the well pipe goes into the water storage tank. The reason for this valve is to eliminate back pressure pushing on the foot valve and making it stick closed. In the closed and stuck position, you get no water. Just install a check valve and solve the problem. Have you well man do it. He carries them in his truck.

From my expierence, if it was the foot valve, it would constantly cycle on and off. My farm house pump did that once. The clamp holding the foot valve rotted off dropping the valve.