Well, Frig. Still have an electrical issue.

woodlandfarms · Jun 29, 2014

To review

Only when the engine is warm and when I am mowing does the circuit breaker blow.

1st Resolution - Clean all grounds (Will repeat this process yet again).

2nd Resolution- Based on running the mower without Draft control (only Oil Cooler fan and PTO activated) produces no blown fuses. Disconnect Draft Control solenoid, run with wire hot to confirm it is not an exposed wire issue. results no blow fuse. Resolution replace Coil and Valve.

Problem - Same darn thing. Ran a half hour and crapped out. Turn Solenoid off, no problems.

OK. So I go back to the barn. Thinking this out. I have two circuits left. Fan and PTO. Pull the PTO Solenoid. At the base where the wires enter the solenoid I notice one is exposing wiring. It is a cut... Just at the connector, and I can see copper.

I have an older coil, and will order a new one (from someone other than PT) but my thoughts are now this.

Draft was probably OK. PTO wire has been exposed for so long it is coroded inside, creating additional resistance. This caused the fuse to pop.

Honestly I have only one thing left and it is my fan. I am just thinking that these three circuits pull a lot of juice and when one is funky it takes the fuse over the top.

I am hard pressed on this one. Poke holes in my theory.

woodlandfarms · Jun 29, 2014

Two more things, It could be the switch. Will check it.

And finally, does a coil have a positive and negative side? I don't think so as both old coils have both red wires, but the new coil had a white and black. I just kept the same side wire to the positive and same side negative....

SpringHollow · Jun 30, 2014

As far as i know, the connections should not matter.

Electrical problems can definitely be frustrating.

Ken

woodlandfarms · Jun 30, 2014

I checked the Solenoid and the ohm reading cold is 5.0 Ohms. It is charged at 4.6 Ohms. Can't find a Tolerance chart, any ideas? Ohm Meter is a good quality one.

J_J · Jun 30, 2014

Well, that coil is drawing about 2.4 aps. What size is your fuse.

Did you check/compare it with another coil?

woodlandfarms · Jun 30, 2014

Coil is rated at 4.6 Ohms. My older coil I replaced (Incorrectly) tested at 4.5 Ohms. I have put the old coil on, trying to find someone to sell me a new coil (Hydraforce 6852012)

woodlandfarms · Jun 30, 2014

OK. It is not the PTO Coil.

Next I am replacing the fan. I am also looking at the thermostat control. I notice when the fan comes on the voltage drops. I am also considering it is a bad fuse, and a bad thermocouple on the Fan Thermostat.

Oh, and this is after ordering a new Coil from Hydraulicstore. Oh well, it was only $35 but... Now becoming a principle thing.

Anyone have any info they would like to empart about either the Thermostat for the Hydrualic fan, or how many amps the main breaker is rated at?

woodlandfarms · Jun 30, 2014

I have decided to pull the breaker first and put in a blade type fuse. Supposedly the fan is fused so I would think it would blow its 10AMP fuse right away. but I have to dig into all of this.

marrt · Jun 30, 2014

I still would consider some in-line fuses. If you have an intermittent fault, such as worn insulation, it will be difficult and expensive to isolate by replacing major components. You are assuming the fault has something to do with heat. It may...or it could just be a coincidence.

I once bought some in-line fuse holders and put alligator clips on the ends. This allowed me to easily switch connectors until I found the problem. In this case, I'd probably use electrical terminals for ends and connect at the suspect component or terminal block as appropriate.

woodlandfarms · Jun 30, 2014

That is the next step. I just got back from the local boat dealer who had the 20 amp dash breaker in stock. The previous breaker basically fell apart in my hand when I reached up to unscrew it. It had rust on the inside, so... $5 part so I can live with this for the moment.