Well help

   / Well help
  • Thread Starter
#11  
That’s what scares me- it would “try” to run. But with half the volts it would need twice the amps= lots of heat which is bad. Something significant happened that the (prob 20-30a) breaker for the well didn’t trip but the 100 main breaker did.

But based on all the other replies let’s hope I’m wrong! No damage and a simple pressure switch adjustment. YouTube probably has a bunch of info on adjusting it. It’s fairly straight forward....just make sure power is off while you are adjusting it.

Thanks... I think it is running. When we use the water, of course whats in the pressure tank is available. Then when the pump kicks in, a few more minutes of water till the pump goes off. I think it is over heating and shutting itself down.
 
   / Well help #12  
The well pressure switch breaks both sides of a 220V circuit. The only way you can wire it wrong is have it connect the two sides of the 220v circuit when it closes. When that happens you get full current through the switch until the breaker trips. My bet is the switch is damaged, the contacts aren't meant for that kind of current. You could test it by opening enough faucets that the if the pump runs continuously the pressure won't build up to much. Shut off the breaker, and bypass the switch with wire, and then turn the breaker on. If the switch is the problem the pump should run fine in this configuration. A new switch should be around $20.
 
   / Well help
  • Thread Starter
#13  
The well pressure switch breaks both sides of a 220V circuit. The only way you can wire it wrong is have it connect the two sides of the 220v circuit when it closes. When that happens you get full current through the switch until the breaker trips. My bet is the switch is damaged, the contacts aren't meant for that kind of current. You could test it by opening enough faucets that the if the pump runs continuously the pressure won't build up to much. Shut off the breaker, and bypass the switch with wire, and then turn the breaker on. If the switch is the problem the pump should run fine in this configuration. A new switch should be around $20.

Wow... great advice. Will do. Thanks.
 
   / Well help #15  
you said a 40/60 switch so the pressure on the tank with the breaker turned off and water valves open so there is no pressure on the tank, then with a tire pressure gauge check the bladder pressure, should be 2 pounds less then kick in pressure of 40 pounds so 38 pounds. They do not know which limit switch you are buying or using so they can not pre set it. The symptoms you are having could be caused by ether not enough bladder pressure or to much. I went through the same thing, my tire gauge was off by 20 pounds, Bought a new gauge re did my pressure and all was good.
 
   / Well help #16  
One thing I wanted to mention is in 1980 when I bought our place I put a light and socket on outside of well house. It's just a 25 watt red bulb wired to one leg of the 220 pressure switch going to well pump.
This way it's easy to see if pump is running from a long distance.
In winter light stayed on when no one using water and I quickly found a pipe leak in garage. Then light was staying on longer and longer recently and I adjusted the pressure switch as per the manual using gauge, checked bladder tank pressure, etc. and all is "well"(pardon the pun).
The light really comes in handy over the years.
 
   / Well help #18  
Here's my guess: the pressure tank pressure is not correct. If I recall correctly, if the pressure tank pressure was not set a few pounds over the cut out pressure, you could get a symptom like you are describing. Check your tank pressure, adjust per the instructions and then report back.
 
   / Well help #19  
I had it reversed

Prior to operation, with the tank, empty of water, the pressure should be 2psi below the cut-on pressure. So, for example, with a 30-50 pressure switch (factory default setting), air pressure in the tank will equal 28psi. If the pressure switch is adjusted to 40-60, the cut-on pressure will be 38psi. Furthermore, always set the pressure switch to reflect a 20psi differential between cut-on and cut-off. If the pump cycles too quickly causing the pump to cut on and off, setting the pressure switch to a higher on/off setting should slow down the cycling. Remember to adjust the air pressure in the tank to reflect the new cut -on pressure. Warning! Most non-commercial tanks have a pressure rating of 100psi!
 
   / Well help
  • Thread Starter
#20  
OK... Plumber came today. Changed out pressure switch because they are cheap, charged tank to be sure it was correct. , and then replaced the well pump with a new one. Somehow we were pulling 21 amps at the pump, I guess something went south in the pump. Once replaced we were pulling 6.5 amps, and everything works great. He is taking my old/new pump back under warranty... Bty, I showed him this thread, and he said ya'll were pretty smart fellars...Thanks guys...:drink:
 

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