Rotary Cutter Well I bought the $250.00 Bush Hog

jwillett · Aug 7, 2009

I picked it up and got it home, now the work begins. Not sure what model it is but it is a Bush Hog Brand and turned out to be a 6' instead of a 5'. I was planning on cutting out the rusted out sections and weld in new plate then said the heck with it. It's a $250.00 Bush Hog and started welding the plate on top, it will probly out last me.
Anyone see anything else I need to take care of before I haul it down to the farm?

Jim

ruralruss · Aug 7, 2009

You might want to replace the propeller with a tail wheel...

Just kidding

Cheers

Sockwell · Aug 7, 2009

I'm going through a similar project on a 5' Big Bee. I've got rust issues. It also looks like the previous owner (grandfather) made the hole to access the blade nuts with an axe. Instead of patching, I ordered a piece of 10 ga. sheet and am going to replace the whole top plate. My project is a little easier because all the top structural pieces are 2" angle. The only other thing I did was add a slip clutch.

Question: Mine also has the chain from near the top link to just in front of the trail wheel. Has anyone ever had a problem with this getting into the PTO shaft? I'm thinking of running two cables, with turnbuckles for leveling, from the top link to the ribs that run the length of the cutter. Has anyone seen this or have one made that way?

studor · Aug 7, 2009

Check the stump jumper to make sure it is solid -- it would act as a rain catcher with those holes in the deck and may be very rusted as well.

kthompson · Aug 7, 2009

studor said:
Check the stump jumper to make sure it is solid -- it would act as a rain catcher with those holes in the deck and may be very rusted as well.

Would have never thought of that...and could have dangerous results if so.

jayste · Aug 7, 2009

Mine has 2-2" wide by 1/4" thick straps running from the top link section down to the rear of the mower. What I will recommend if you are mowing (brush hogging) in an area that has ditches and areas where you'll have dips to go through, is to not use a top link at all provided you put straps on yours like mine. Since yours already has a chain you're good to use the rigid/adjustable top link. I use a piece of heavy chain with hooks on both ends in place of a top link on mine.

Jay

Kays Supply · Aug 7, 2009

Change the gear oil.

RickB · Aug 7, 2009

It's a fairly early SQ72. I have one identical to it (with a little better deck) that I paid $400 for several years ago. I just came across another with a trashed gearbox, good deck, excellect A-Frame (which I need desperately) and tailwheel for free.

This model is a little different in that the stump jumper is separate from the blade bar. If you take both blade bolts out, the pan falls right off. The good news is the pan is relatively cheap if you need to replace it. I generally only remove one blade at a time so as not to have to fight with the pan and a blade and hardware all at the same time.

shakin · Aug 7, 2009

check bearing for play in the gearbox. the pins look bent might make it hard to mount on tractor that way. might want to get chain guards or rubber to slow down the debris rocketing at you're head

Sideways · Aug 7, 2009

studor said:
Check the stump jumper to make sure it is solid -- it would act as a rain catcher with those holes in the deck and may be very rusted as well.

I don't want to sound stupid but what is a stump jumper?

Scotty370 · Aug 7, 2009

Sideways-Look here:Available large-diameter stump jumpers help machine glide over obstacles

Flatheadyoungin · Aug 7, 2009

that'll be a pretty nice hog once you get done with it.......

i fixed up an old KK that had warped the whole top deck from using a grade 5 bolt that only partially sheered.........it does get old replacing softy bolts......

that hog is worth some time of welding plate on it and spending a little time and money on.....the KK is much weaker looking than that bush hog.....

keep us posted with pic...

on an old hog like that, i wouldn't worry at all about welding right on top....the weeds won't even know the difference!

jwillett · Aug 7, 2009

Well I did not get as much done today as I would of liked, my small grinder quit on me. Also a mig welds better if you turn the gas on, forgot to turn it back on after lunch. I thought the wind was blowing the gas as first but then saw that I did not turn it back on. The stump jumper is in sad shape and rusted just as STUDOR said it would be. Hope to make more progress tomorrow but there is an auction just up the road with alot of used farm equipment sooooo we will see. Thanks for all the input.

Jim

studor · Aug 8, 2009

If the pan is not also the blade holder it should be easy (and reasonably cheap ) to replace. -- you don't want to know how I found out about the stump jumper rusting

kebo · Aug 8, 2009

Sideways said:
I don't want to sound stupid but what is a stump jumper?

It's usually a big "dish" or "pan" looking piece of round metal that goes on the bottom of the gearbox (output shaft). The two blades then bolt directly to the stumpjumper "pan". Since the outer edges of the stumpjumper are usually curved upward, when it hits a stump or other large immovable object, it tends to ride up over the stump (or object) and help prevent damaging the gearbox and save the blades too.

jwillett · Aug 9, 2009

Well I got a little more done but ran out of welding gas so I has to stop. I did test some MF Red paint I got at Tractor Supply and put one coat on a small area.

Jim