Well problems

[paulharvey]

I have a simple 2 wire 240v submersible well pump. I've had some problems with burnt contacts on the pressure switch, so a couple months ago I replaced it. Now, I'll admit, I might not have had air in the bladder tank perfect (approx 28 lbs) and I did play a bit with the pressure adjuster nuts a bit, so I can't say exactly what it's set at.

I had problems for couple months (basically ever since) if I used a lot of water fast, I would have to wait a bit for switch to trip, taking 30 seconds to maybe a couple minutes, then regain water. Today it wouldn't trip, so here we are...

The switch will stop when the pressure switch opens, but not always run when closed. I always have 118 volts to my incoming hots (black and white). When the switch is open I have zero on the motor side (black and red). The kicker is the switch will be closed, pump not running, and 118v on both of the motor wires at times.... give it some time, curse, play with switch, breakers, disconnect, curse more and kick, it will come on for half a cycle maybe, filling pressure tank. It doesn't open the switch most of the time, just stops.

So, is it possible there is some thermal switch or "duty cycle" on the pump it's self that is tripping, and over time resetting (like a welder) or what the heck.

Is my pump doomed. How about a surface suction pump with build in tank ($199) and leave sump, wire, and down pipe in place. I don't really have spare money to call a well guy, and surely don't have the money to pay then to pull, and replace pump (how much would it be 80 ft to bottom, don't know depth to static water level).

Edit: so far, I have direct wiring, black to black, red to white, both read 118 or so volts. Same result, run for a few seconds (5-30 secs), stop, and nothing.

 

[SPIKER]

sounds like a thermal shutoff sw on the motor is going or motor bearing but yes that sounds like new pump time.

short cycling the pump can cause it to go out sooner so make sure tank is set w right air and new switch for new pump.

M

 

[gary49]

The "surface suction pump" you refer to sounds like a shallow well jet pump. Those will only lift water about 25', so that won't work. A clamp on ammeter can help you determine if the switch and pump are operating correctly. When contacts on switch are closed, ammeter should read about 5 amps if you have a 1/2 hp pump. More than that or intermittent readings probably mean trouble down the well. A pump set at 80' is quite easy to pull by hand, usually.

 

[turnkey4099]

The "surface suction pump" you refer to sounds like a shallow well jet pump. Those will only lift water about 25', so that won't work. A clamp on ammeter can help you determine if the switch and pump are operating correctly. When contacts on switch are closed, ammeter should read about 5 amps if you have a 1/2 hp pump. More than that or intermittent readings probably mean trouble down the well. A pump set at 80' is quite easy to pull by hand, usually.

Depends on the static level of the well and the recovery rate. If the static level is less than about 25' a suction pump will work until the drawdown exceeds about 25'

Harry K

 

[KevT]

Your bladder should be set within 5psi of your water pressure. If you pull your pump make sure you have 2 pipe wrenches to hold the pipe as you re-grip your snatch. Personally I would add air to the bladder and change the pressure switch before pulling the pump. If it doesn't help then you will use them on the new pump. My well is only 35 foot and pulling the pump is a PIA, I can't imagine 80 foot

 

[TheGoose]

Sounds like the thermal overload on the pump is tripping out. Are you sure you don't have a low pressure safety switch installed? These will not let the pump come on until the pressure is above 20 psig. You have to hold the lever 1/2 way up until the system has pressure.

 

[Egon]

Use an amp meter first to determine where the problem lies.

 

[paulharvey]

Sounds like the thermal overload on the pump is tripping out. Are you sure you don't have a low pressure safety switch installed? These will not let the pump come on until the pressure is above 20 psig. You have to hold the lever 1/2 way up until the system has pressure.

I do not have one of these.

 

[paulharvey]

I'm going to keep messing with it, and call around Monday. So far, I'm considering

1: I pulled and take to local pump rebuild guy, and either have it rebuilt or get a rebuilt one from him, and reinstall my self

2: call the local pump guy and see how much for him too pull and rebuilt or replace

3: order cheap new pump online, and pull and replace myself, possibly with some help

Does anyone have a rough idea what I would pay to have it pulled and dropped. I'm seeing new pumps in the $299-$350 range for sumps.

Is it possible the thermal switch (which I never new existed, just guessed based on welders) has gone bad, and I could raise and either replace or remove the switch and carry on for a few years

 

[Clint S]

I'm going to keep messing with it, and call around Monday. So far, I'm considering

1: I pulled and take to local pump rebuild guy, and either have it rebuilt or get a rebuilt one from him, and reinstall my self

2: call the local pump guy and see how much for him too pull and rebuilt or replace

3: order cheap new pump online, and pull and replace myself, possibly with some help

Does anyone have a rough idea what I would pay to have it pulled and dropped. I'm seeing new pumps in the $299-$350 range for sumps.

Is it possible the thermal switch (which I never new existed, just guessed based on welders) has gone bad, and I could raise and either replace or remove the switch and carry on for a few years

I am guessing no on the do it yourself thermal switch and there is a high possibility that the switch is not bad and the pump is actually overheating and tripping it. I pulled a reinstalled a pump in an afternoon so a few hours for a pro. I would guess no less than $300 to have a pro do it, possibly more.