Well question

[speedbump]

If your schrader valve is screwed into the well side of a brass check valve in the supply line, you have an air making system. Which also means you do not have a bladder tank. This system works great when it's functioning. If the schrader or the bleeder in the well gets plugged; the tank will waterlog causing the pump to cycle rapidly. Make sure the pictures show the entire tank and also the schrader valve.

 

[Vern]

The Shrader valve is below the pressure switch.

 

[Chooglin]

I am going to have to bow out of this ,that setup is nothing that I have ever seen !!!!
Best of luck, hopefully someone will step in that knows your system.

 

[C4Ranch]

I have this setup on my home. It is likely your air volume control.

Air Volume Controls are designed for domestic water supply systems which deliver a quantity of air to the pressure tank with each cycle of pump operation.

Insufficient air in the pressure tank causes frequent operation of the pump.

Too much air in the pressure tank will permit large bubbles to be carried into the piping system. This causes a disagreeable noise and sputtering at the faucets. It is the function of U.S. Gauge air volume controls to maintain the correct relationship between the volume of air and the quantity of water in the pressure tank.

Air volume control: How to Find & Repair, Replace, or Remove the Water Tank Air Volume Control

 

[the old grind]

Ok, that's no bladder tank. (I'd look into getting one.) Your Schraeder valve is 'randomly' placed in a well fitting (1" w/ 1/4" taps). It'd be ok for adding air and that's about it with no way to monitor the amount/level if no other apertures are available.

These kinda faded out in use decades ago as bladder tanks came into popularity. Galvanized tanks are so '70s nowadays, and that they last so long has little to do with how well they work. Got VISA?

 

[C4Ranch]

I have both kinds of tanks and will probably add a new galvanized one on the well I just drilled. I prefer it over bladder because it allows you to add air as the OP indicated to reduce suffer smell plus about the only thing that can go wrong is the AVC which is cheaper to replace than bladder. The one at my house has been workin since '97. Not quite the '70s but 17 yrs.

 

[PILOON]

My fiberglass bladder tank is 23 years old and operating trouble free.

Steel bladder tanks are another story, the steel inner side of those rust from condensation and the bladder abrades on the rusty surfaces and eventually pop a few leaks.
Another MUST is to ONLY use brass or plastic fittings as any steel in the system will rust to the point of impeding flow and even cause total blockage. Also depending on the water pH, some areas will eat up piping real fast.

 

[the old grind]

Pretty much a race between rust and air loss to finish off a bladder. Condensation comes from any damp air we put in above the bladder when setting up or topping up (that can be a warning sign) if anyone wonders. Now there is a place for the magical 'nitrogen'

While no longer as popular, galvanized tanks are as nice to have as they are 'er easy to check/correct air volume. I can relate, cuz' I prefer a motorbike with a kick starter and point ignition. :thumbsup: (same would apply to scheduled bladder air checks, btw) What matters more to some is water quality, to the point that gases etc can be heqq on bladders if minerals or ph doesn't cause zinc to react somehow. Don't let plastic sections or fittings defeat any grounding if not deliberately isolated. :2cents:

 

[Vern]

C4Ranch Thanks, the part under the gage looks like the link you supplied. I will pick one up and replace it.

Thanks everyone.

 

[crackerjack222]

I looked briefly at the link that C4Ranch posted. If I looked at the same picture of the "part under the gage" as you, that part is a float valve that removes excess air from the tank, and is not likely your problem. The most likely source of your problem is the "snifter valve", the Schrader valve. They get clogged with minerals and fail to open which causes them not to allow air into the line to replenish air in the tank.
In short, the snifter valve, working with the ball/tee in the line in the well works to add air to the tank each time the pump turns on. The float/ball valve about halfway up the tank removes any excess air that has been injected.
You can restore (temporarily) correct operation of the system by using an air compressor on the snifter valve to add air to the tank.