Well Storage Tank

[Billy_S]

I performed the service, as suggested, last night and all went well. Problem solved.

I think the plumber did say that the bladder was probably bad, but seeing as how it only needs to be "fixed" once a year, he suggested letting it get worse before we spend the money.

 

[turnkey4099]

I performed the service, as suggested, last night and all went well. Problem solved.

I think the plumber did say that the bladder was probably bad, but seeing as how it only needs to be "fixed" once a year, he suggested letting it get worse before we spend the money.

I can't speak to the truth of this but it does seem logical. When a bladder breaks, there will be some water trapped on the wrong side of it and that can turn stagnant.

As for replacing the tank. There should be no need for a plumber, it is only a matter of disconnecting one union at the tank input/output and reconnecting the new tank. That is a bit simplified but it is about all there is to the job. Leaving the old one in and adding air when you notice the problem is not doing your pump any good.

Harry K

 

[Billy_S]

<snipped>There should be no need for a plumber, <snipped>

You clearly know nothing about my plumbing abilities.

 

[Phils]

"You clearly know nothing about my plumbing abilities."

You don't need to know any plumbing, just pretend it's a hydraulic accumulator tank for your tractor!

Phil

 

[Dusty]

........it is only a matter of disconnecting one union at the tank input/output and reconnecting the new tank. ........Harry K

You assume that there is a union..... I have seen installations where they didn't use a union at all. Also, physical tank sizes have changed over the years. I have 3 tanks in tandem in my home, and one of them is so old, that they no longer make that physical size. Dusty

 

[scesnick]

You guys have been very helpful and it looks like I might be able to save myself the $75 and tackle this project on my own. Keeping in mind my ignorance, please verify my understanding of the procedure involved.

1. Unplug the tank from the wall and turn off the breaker for the well pump.

2. Press on the valve core thing to see if water comes out. If water does come out, call the service guy. If no water comes out, proceed to step 3.

3. Turn on a faucet until water quits running.

4. Close the faucet.

5. I believe my pump kicks on at 40 psi and off at 60 psi. If that is the case, pump air into the valve to 38 psi. I will use my portable air tank for this, rather than my air compressor.

6. Reconnect power to the tank.

7. Buy beer.

Is this right?

I think I would put #7 in #1's spot !!!

 

[_RaT_]

I can't speak to the truth of this but it does seem logical. When a bladder breaks, there will be some water trapped on the wrong side of it and that can turn stagnant.

As for replacing the tank. There should be no need for a plumber, it is only a matter of disconnecting one union at the tank input/output and reconnecting the new tank. That is a bit simplified but it is about all there is to the job. Leaving the old one in and adding air when you notice the problem is not doing your pump any good.

Harry K

Every tank that I have replaced that had a leaking bladder also leaked water out the top of the tank as an indicator the bladder was compromised. Keeping the precharge at 2 PSI below cut in pressure is a good way to help give extra life to the bladder. As the tank is draining and the breaker to the pump off, listen for the pressure switch to "click in". At that point note the pressure on your gauge. That is your cut in pressure. If your pump ever goes out, you might consider a frequency driven pump instead, it basically can eliminate the need for a pressure tank and give you a constant pressure. It is also easy on the pump motor and wire/pipe in the well as it slowly ramps to speed rather then kicking in instantly.

 

[turnkey4099]

I think I would put #7 in #1's spot !!!

Of course. Always assemble all needed tools before beginning the job!

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Every tank that I have replaced that had a leaking bladder also leaked water out the top of the tank as an indicator the bladder was compromised. Keeping the precharge at 2 PSI below cut in pressure is a good way to help give extra life to the bladder. As the tank is draining and the breaker to the pump off, listen for the pressure switch to "click in". At that point note the pressure on your gauge. That is your cut in pressure. If your pump ever goes out, you might consider a frequency driven pump instead, it basically can eliminate the need for a pressure tank and give you a constant pressure. It is also easy on the pump motor and wire/pipe in the well as it slowly ramps to speed rather then kicking in instantly.

As the air valve is on the top of the tank, no water can come out until the air bubble is totally (or almost so) gone. At least all that I have seen have the valve up there. By the time that happens, there are all kinds of other indications that there is a problem and most likely a blown bladder (short cycling/pump hammering off and on).

Constanct pressure pumps/controllers as you mention are a 'good thing' IMO. Never had one or messed with one but they do sound nice.

Harry K

 

[_RaT_]

As the air valve is on the top of the tank, no water can come out until the air bubble is totally (or almost so) gone. At least all that I have seen have the valve up there. By the time that happens, there are all kinds of other indications that there is a problem and most likely a blown bladder (short cycling/pump hammering off and on).

Constanct pressure pumps/controllers as you mention are a 'good thing' IMO. Never had one or messed with one but they do sound nice.

Harry K

I've not seen the water leak from the schrader valve but from the very top and center of the tank where there is often a opening. Often the air fill vlave is off to the side and top of the tank. The water goes around the bladder and makes its way to the top. At about 2/3rds down the tank is typically a circular indentation. That is where the bladder is attached.