Well Water Filter

   / Well Water Filter #21  
Use wound filters scrub them off then soak them in weak solution of muriatic acid, that will attack the iron. Scrub again rinse use over until center core red won't come out. What you need is a much larger filter like swimming pool size, I regularly clean the rust from mine. Some like Hayward 80. There are tons of sizes, shop for common size so the filters will cost less. I can get pleatco A76 for $32, that is 75 feet of filter and it catches the iron that chlorine pulls out of the water.
 
   / Well Water Filter #22  
I don't have well water I have a spring up the hill behind my place that I have tapped into I use to have a problem with filters needing changing every couple of weeks from silt I solved the problem by putting a tank that holds over a days worth of water before the filter make sure inlet to the tank has a defuser so the fresh water coming in doesn't stir up the tank all the silt settles to the bottom of the tank I now change the filters once a year
 
   / Well Water Filter
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I think you read my mind. I am fixated on the specs. The spin down is a 50 micron. I am going to jump up to a 100 micron just to see if it last longer between purges. If that doesn't help, I am also thinking that maybe I should remove the spin down and put a 3rd big blue in front and install a 50 micron 20" filter in the first part of the line of filters.

......or the 50 micron spin down is junk.

No doubt you need a solution. My concern is you have fixated on specs and are convinced that those specs should fix the issue. My contention is the brand and or style of filter isn’t working for your needs.
 
   / Well Water Filter
  • Thread Starter
#24  
That is what I need, I just don't know how I would implement that on a submersible well pump. If I could find a way to let the water settle prior to going through the filters, that would remove quite a big of the big sediment.

I don't have well water I have a spring up the hill behind my place that I have tapped into I use to have a problem with filters needing changing every couple of weeks from silt I solved the problem by putting a tank that holds over a days worth of water before the filter make sure inlet to the tank has a defuser so the fresh water coming in doesn't stir up the tank all the silt settles to the bottom of the tank I now change the filters once a year
 
   / Well Water Filter
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I agree. Where can you get the transparent ones from that hold a large filter like this? The ones I did find had really bad reviews.

I do not and never have liked non transparent filter bowls. I want to see what the media looks like at all times.
 
   / Well Water Filter
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Alright, this is what I am going to do. I installed a larger 100 micron spin down over the weekend and although it lasted longer between purges, it wasn't all that much longer. The issue with the spin down is that there is not enough surface area so it clogs faster. The big blue filters lasted longer even though the one was only 5 microns, but that is due to more surface area, being pleated and a longers, 20" filter. I decided to add a third big blue 20" housing with a 50 micron filters. So it will go water from well, to 50 micron, then 5 micron, then 1 micron, then the water softener then to the fixtures. I think the 50 micron will help all the filters last longer by removing the larger stuff first. I'm taking the spin out of the picture completely and sending it back. It just doesn't work for my situation.

I noticed with the spin down that it was filling up will black silt like substances. It was too fine to purge when I opened the valve. I had to remove the screen and scrub it with a brush to get that black stuff off. It was very fine. I'm guessing it is magnesium of what I read.
 
   / Well Water Filter #27  
Alright, this is what I am going to do. I installed a larger 100 micron spin down over the weekend and although it lasted longer between purges, it wasn't all that much longer. The issue with the spin down is that there is not enough surface area so it clogs faster. The big blue filters lasted longer even though the one was only 5 microns, but that is due to more surface area, being pleated and a longers, 20" filter. I decided to add a third big blue 20" housing with a 50 micron filters. So it will go water from well, to 50 micron, then 5 micron, then 1 micron, then the water softener then to the fixtures. I think the 50 micron will help all the filters last longer by removing the larger stuff first. I'm taking the spin out of the picture completely and sending it back. It just doesn't work for my situation.

I noticed with the spin down that it was filling up will black silt like substances. It was too fine to purge when I opened the valve. I had to remove the screen and scrub it with a brush to get that black stuff off. It was very fine. I'm guessing it is magnesium of what I read.

It sounds like manganese which precipitates from the water as a black film, usually it occurs in conjunction with iron or iron bacteria. If so, then it isn't sediment being sucked up by the pump, it's a chemical precipitate being deposited on the filter media. Low concentrations can be effectively treated with just the softener, higher concentrations require a "green sand" filtration system.

Ask your neighbors what they are using. Have the water sampled and tested for iron and manganese to see what you are actually working with and then use the data to come up with an effective treatment system.
 
   / Well Water Filter #28  
If you take a glass of water off the sampling faucet, you'll see what material is clogging your filter. If it's sand or grit, that'll be eroding your pump impeller away and clogging the pressure tank. Sadly, the permanent fix will make the filters look cheap. For my house, I piped in two big blue filters parallel. That way when one goes down, I can switch over to the second one until I can service the first one.

Iron bacteria, if bad enough will clog filters pretty quickly. It forms greasy strings in a glass and is slimy to the touch. Can turn the water coal black and stinks bad. It's taken a few years, but thankfully our water has cleaned up.
 
   / Well Water Filter #29  
I would get your water tested and then "Shock" the well with either commercial strength peroxide or a gallon of Clorox, let set for 24 hours then flush. This "Shock" will normally kill the iron bacteria for a year or two. I sometimes have black slime, sometimes brown slime.
 
   / Well Water Filter #30  
Alright, this is what I am going to do. I installed a larger 100 micron spin down over the weekend and although it lasted longer between purges, it wasn't all that much longer. The issue with the spin down is that there is not enough surface area so it clogs faster. The big blue filters lasted longer even though the one was only 5 microns, but that is due to more surface area, being pleated and a longers, 20" filter. I decided to add a third big blue 20" housing with a 50 micron filters. So it will go water from well, to 50 micron, then 5 micron, then 1 micron, then the water softener then to the fixtures. I think the 50 micron will help all the filters last longer by removing the larger stuff first. I'm taking the spin out of the picture completely and sending it back. It just doesn't work for my situation.

I noticed with the spin down that it was filling up will black silt like substances. It was too fine to purge when I opened the valve. I had to remove the screen and scrub it with a brush to get that black stuff off. It was very fine. I'm guessing it is magnesium of what I read.

Sounds like you are trying to solve a major water filtration problem using the pile up method... BUT you can only pile so many filter on before you get to a point where it would have COST less calling in a Specialist... yes an Engineer !

I can tell... you know what you are doing, by you work on the panel, but when is it ok to call in reenforcement !
 
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