Well water filter??

[mikim]

OK ... I posted earlier this a.m. in the wrong place ...but I received my report from the driller last night - iron=.5, ph=8, and hardness=11 .... is this good? bad? average? Do these numbers determine what media I should use in a filter? I see GAC is a media in some searching I've just started .... but I'm seeing a lot of filtering for use on city systems ...... guess I need to narrow my searches. ... I obviously have a lot of learning to do. It's a good thing I have lots of time to learn - the house won't be started for a few years yet. I'm going to build a small weekend suite in the barn I hope to have up by end of year though - that'll be a good testing/learning area.

 

[swiftboot]

I cant help with the values you have been given. I think iron content is given in ppm. It has been reported here and i have read where softer water will be easier to filter or at least the filter will be more efficent in filtering iron with the soft water. May i suggesnt watervalue.com with a google search. Very informative site as well as various equipment for sale. I also built a barn initially and put a travel trailer in it for living quarters for temp arrangement, that was 23 years ago. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif If possible, perhaps your well and associated filters etc, could be located so it could be used in your home when it is completed unlike my planning. The five "P's" come in handy with this endeavor. thanks, chuck

 

[swiftboot]

I certainly appreciate your explanation of how your system operates. I was concerned about the reliablility, but with the years of service you have gotten from your unit convinces me that this is the system for me. thanks, chuck

 

[swiftboot]

I have used the filters you describe in earlier applications. I think you are describing the cartridge type filter that is replaced occassionally. Unfortuanately, those filters had to be changed too often due the amount of iron in the water of my current well. And i concur with your idea of a valve placed on either side of the filter, otherwise a shower is in order. I am sure for a lesser iron content well the cartridge would perform adequately. thanks, chuck

 

[swiftboot]

My neighbor has a water softner as you describe, it is a rental unit from Culligan. He merely adds salt as required and any service required is the company's responsibility. While it does filter most of the iron, his water still has some iron content. I will investigate the chlorine system as well, but on the surface, it seems an 80 gallon chlorine tank would not be desirable. Thanks, chuck

 

[WhyNot]

I have been told that green sand is made with arsnic. The trouble with iron is there are different types one system will filter one and not the other. The softener I have uses I believe SST resin in it and is claimed to last 25 year's and only uses 11 lbs of salt once a week.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have been told that green sand is made with arsnic. )</font>

That's funny, only because you are from New Jersey. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Greensand is also known as New Jersey greensand and it does not, and never has, contained any natural arsenic.

You can read all about it HERE.

 

[GaryQWA]

The .5 ppm of iron is but a trace and any dealer proposing the use of a greensand filter is selling you way more than needed. A correctly sized Birm filter will suffice. There can not be any H2S for the use of Birm and there is an acceptable pH range.

Backwashed and/or regenerated (greensand) filters come in any size needed. The water treatment industry is trying to get away from the use of potassium permanganate, a serious poison.

The 5600 control can only be used on filters using no larger than a 10" dia tank. A 10" x 54" tank is for 1.5 cuft softeners or filters. The size of the unit depends on your peak demand flow rate and for greensand you would not be able to successfuly backwash more than 2 cuft with most well water sytem pumps. Greensand is very heavy mineral and 1.5 cuft will have a max gpm flow rate of 5 gpm. Over 5 gpm, you won't get all the iorn out of the water.

Soda ash increases pH, it doesn't soften water. Greensand can not be used if the pH is less than 6.9 pH.

The best solution for your water is a correctly sized water, and since you don't like the "I can't rinse the soap off" feeling... which women love, you can add 1-3 gpg of hardness back into the water after the softener removes the hardness and iron. With 11 gpg of hardness, you'll spend much more living with it than a softener will cost. Hard water costs clothes, fixtures, water heaters and much more fuel to heat water etc.. Softener salt is much less expensive than PP. A softener will use way less water than any iron filter, whether it is backwashed only or regenerated.

To learn more concerning correct sizing, see here

Gary
Quality Water Associates

 

[WhyNot]

Well I guess since it comes from Jersey Arsnic may be the least toxic chemical in it /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[swiftboot]

i suspect your post was directed more specifically to Mike or myself. I dont know what iron content or ph i have as yet but will certainly make that determination prior to having a filtering system installed. As for the Birm filter, i have tried to understand the workings of it, and it seems to require a air injection into the water. Being in the business, perhaps you could explain in detail how the Birm filter/system works. Does it require a compressed air system to accomplish this? I would also appreciate any direction you can point me to for info regarding the industry moving away from the use of PP. thanks, chuck