Well / water shutoff question.

[bczoom]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I flipped off the breaker for the water heater, then turned off the water at the meter. It only takes a minute or so, and I'm sure was completely unnecessary, but since it was so easy, why not be sure. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif )</font>

Not sure if I should start a new thread but want to ask.

In a case when you're leaving for an extended period, what should you do with the water conditioner(s)? If the water is off and it says it's time to regenerate, what will the water conditioner do? Can/will it get damaged?

I have a couple tanks. The carbon tank, I can just unplug and stop the timer. Reset the timer on return.

The other one I have is more computerized and has a battery backup as well. If I turn off the power, I "assume" the battery backup will run all functions. Am I correct or will it just retain the memory settings for what the hardness level, capacity, time of day... and not start any regeneration? I just checked the manual and there was nothing about shutting it down.

 

[Bird]

Good question, Brian, but since I have no experience with those conditioners, I have no idea what you do about them.

 

[Ken_f]

Thanks for the ideas.

Sure I have insurance.... But, its a pain to fix everything. Also, one of the new rooms in the basement is a office with computers which I want to sit on the floor to help free up desk space.

My house is 15 years old and the plumbing is up to date. We do go on long trips from time to time and I do shut off the water heaters. I have yet to turn off the water as I was worried about the foot valve in the pump. I guess it would not be a problem with a submersible pump vs. a top of the well jet pump.

I am just the type that prepares for everything that I can. I figured it would be one less thing to worry about. I think I will install one of the valve type right after the pressure tank. I agree that the black poly pipe is very strong and my failure world probably not come from that.

Just trying to increase my odds against Murphy's law.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[Phred]

If you really want to do this use a contactor or a solid state relay (SSR).

The basic idea is what your pressure switch does.
This pressure switch is basicaly a relay that interrupts power to the pump when your pressure tank reaches the value set on the switch.

So using the same principle, put a solid state relay in series with you pressure switch. Such as:
http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Omron%20Web%20Data/G3NA.pdf
Then use a water detector switch, such as
http://www.automatedaquariums.com/gri2800.htm
to control the SSR.

Caution: You need to make sure the SSR is rated for the pump and then some. Also you would need to heatsink the SSR. When in doubt seek advise from the manufacturer.

The SSR is probably not the exact right part for you since it would depend on your pump configuration. I just pulled this one out as an example.

Also you may need normally on or normally open depending on the output of the water detector.

Fred

 

[Inspector507]

Just turn off the power to the pump before you leave /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Phred]

Ken,

Another thought and perhaps easier would be to put a disconnect in series with the pump power.
http://www.eatonelectrical.com/NASApp/cs/ContentServer?pagename=C-H/Common/AssetTemplateLink&c=Apubarticles&cid=982251449845&Sec=products
This way when you go away on vacation you just flip the power off to the pump. Using a breaker is a bad idea since they are not designed for a large number of on and off cycles.

Also you might want to think about using one of those water heater drip pans for your water heater and pressure tank. If you plumb them to a drain that would at least take care of any leaks at these points.

Fred