Wet wood in a log that has been cut for years.

[Varmintmist]

Gee, I wish I would have looked farther on that link

how to clean a chimney

 

[dmccarty]

Guys,

Thanks for the help. That is a very good link. My chiney has two 30 degree bends to get around the ridge beam so I need the flex rods. I dont know if the chimney cap is easy to open but I know it would not be hard to take off.

Guess I'll be singing the Chim Chimney song from Mary Poppins! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Jim_Fisher]

Dan,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Guess I'll be singing the Chim Chimney song from Mary Poppins! )</font>

Don't forget the top hat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[arthr31]

It's extremely dangerous to have a chimney fire- let alone start one on purpose. Chimney fires can get so hot that the masonry can crumble and as the fire consumes air for fuel, the surrounding house can catch fire. I know people that've had these fires, it's best to leave the house....

If you keep the fire hot enough, creosote won't form to a thick glaze. At the end of a 4-cord burning season, all i have to do is brush the chimney for about 1/2 hour and clean up the debre at the firebox.

Your father in law might want to think about a wood stove since the stone masonry chimney setup is dangerous and impractical combined with the "start your own chimney fire"! anyway, my 2c. -arthr

 

[beenthere]

I agree that chimney fires should be avoided, especially avoiding the conditions that support a chimney fire. Extremely dangerous? To me, not in that category. Fleeing the house is not what I have done when the chimney was on fire twice. I monitored the progress, watched the attic area that might be affected by the chimney (it is visible), and watched for any smoke outside the chimney chase going up through the house. I closed the wood burner draft, and realized the fire was getting its own 'air' down the center of the chimney as the fire burned upward at the chimney walls. Capping the chimney is a possible solution if getting on the roof quickly is an option. If one calls the fire department, they may do more damage than the chimney fire will cause, but it is a decision that each has to make as their home is at risk with a chimney fire.
I cause controlled 'hot' flue fires in the first 7' of flue pipe coming out of my woodburner. I do this to keep it clean and free of creosote, so a wood fire has little chance of sending sparks up past this 7' flue. This has worked well for me, and I worry less about a fire when I am not home. When I am home, I worry less too. I clean the chimney with a brush at least twice a year. I get very little creosote residue as the wood I burn is at least been drying split for a minimum of two years under cover (sides open). It's all oak, red and white. Have been burning every year for 30 years now.

 

[bczoom]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I cause controlled 'hot' flue fires in the first 7' of flue pipe coming out of my woodburner.)</font>

Beenthere,

How do you do this and how do you control?

Brian

 

[beenthere]

I do this when I have a good hot bed of coals in the wood burner, then add cardboard or corrugated board from boxes. I open the 'door' to provide plenty of air, and use a stick to tap on the flue. The creosote will flake off and burn real hot. I listen and watch for any sign that this hot flame and sparks do not ignite the main chimney.
If this happens (fire past the flue), I will shut the draft to the wood burner, and work on controlling the chimney fire. So far, this has not happened. With the short 7' flue clean from this fire, I trust that a chimney fire cannot happen when I am not there and the wood fire is burning regularly (knock on wood).

 

[bczoom]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( (knock on wood). )</font>

Pun intended?

Sounds good. Oh well, I can't do this since I don't have any access. Woodstove direct to chimney. If I do the same, I'll have a 30' chimney fire.

 

[beenthere]

You need to follow your best instincts. I feel a good attempt to force a chimney fire will create at most, a mini-fire which will prevent a big one. The big ones do the damage and create the extra heat. By forcing the chimney to take on some hot sparks and flames, and even catch fire within it, will keep the fire to a low level, and burn out the problem creosote.
Now I say that for myself, not applying the thought to everyone else. Creosote comes in different levels and amounts, depending on the age of drying and dryness of the wood being burned. As a beginner 30 years ago, I plugged up the stack pipe in a couple weeks because my wood, which was okay and would burn, was not dry (enough).
Wood is not dry, IMO, unless it has been split, stacked, and under protection from rain and snow for at least 2 and preferrably 3 years. Oh yes, it will burn before being that dry. But the fire will not be as hot, will have to convert the water in the wood to steam, and will create more creosote that will cool and stick to the chimney. The more creosote, the hotter the chimney fire will burn. No good way to get around it. Again, just my opinion which I offer for the discussion. Burn safely. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif