What attachment; Rack or ????

[B2620]

What attachment; Rake or ????

I just had a new pond installed and now have to clean up the mess and plant ground cover, grass, etc.
There are many rocks, rough soil and dozer tracks left take must be taken care of, in spring after the ground thaws, prior to planting.
Currently I have a Kubota B2620 with FEL, brush hog, front blade (used mainly for snow) and box blade.
In the spring, I could probably loosen the ground back up with the scaffers on the box blade and do some regrading/smoothing with it.
I cannot afford to buy 3 or 4 attachments. Taking this into consideration, what would be the best single or maybe two attachments I could buy to finish this job?
Thanks,
B2620

 

[dirtworksequip]

IF your slopes are not too steep you can do it all with your front blade and a landscape rake and have it ready to seed in no time. Back drag with the blade and finish up with the rake. A tiller would be good to incorperate the grass and plant material into the soil before back draggng and raking.
Sincerely, Dirt

 

[LBrown59]

I just had a new pond installed and now have to clean up the mess and plant ground cover, grass, etc.
There are many rocks, rough soil and dozer tracks left take must be taken care of, in spring after the ground thaws, prior to planting.
Currently I have a Kubota B2620 with FEL, brush hog, front blade (used mainly for snow) and box blade.
In the spring, I could probably loosen the ground back up with the scaffers on the box blade and do some regrading/smoothing with it.
I cannot afford to buy 3 or 4 attachments. Taking this into consideration, what would be the best single or maybe two attachments I could buy to finish this job?
Thanks,
B2620

This is what I use .
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/1378422-post10.html

 

[jgrreed]

IF your slopes are not too steep you can do it all with your front blade and a landscape rake and have it ready to seed in no time. Back drag with the blade and finish up with the rake. A tiller would be good to incorperate the grass and plant material into the soil before back draggng and raking.
Sincerely, Dirt

I know it's a bit off topic here, but is it OK to till in grass seed?? It doesn't put it too deep?? I have fairly sandy/clay type soil and was going to add some peat and topsoil prior to seeding. Do you think it'd be OK to put down all the peat, topsoil, and some fertilizer along with seed on top and then till it all in??

Thanks,

-Jer.

 

[pitt_md]

I just had a lot of excavating done at my house and I found the landscape rake to work very well. I did use a boxblade to dig down and get even more rocks that were just below the surface and then the rake to put on a pile for the FEL.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I know it's a bit off topic here, but is it OK to till in grass seed?? It doesn't put it too deep?? I have fairly sandy/clay type soil and was going to add some peat and topsoil prior to seeding. Do you think it'd be OK to put down all the peat, topsoil, and some fertilizer along with seed on top and then till it all in??

Thanks,

-Jer.

Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool

 

[jgrreed]

Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool

Thank you!!

-Jer.

 

[B2620]

Most all species of grass (seed) prefer soil contact, but NOT deep planting. Ideally, you want seed no deeper than 1/4" in most cases. It takes sunlight to make seed grow. Burying the seed prevents seed from germinating in most cases.

It's better than just OK to incorporate the soil ammendments as deep as you want. Although, I'd rather have my fertilizer in the upper 2" to 3". Seed on the other hand, keep it shallow. I've had my BEST results by seeding directly on the surface, then using a cultipacker to press the seed into the dirt for good soil contact, then let nature do what she does best!


As far as the original question; Try a pulverizer. They'll do a certain ammount of grading, they'll rake up rocks and sticks about as well as a landscape rake, and will leave an ideal seedbed for grass. I had quite a bid of 'dozer work done at my farm a few years back. (waterways and filter strips) I follwed behind the dozer with one of these and was most impressed. And they make the best tool I've ever seen for grading gravel drives too!


Yard Tool

What is a pulverizer?
Thanks,
B2620

 

[PILOON]

Here is a cheap and easy technique that'll do the trick!

Called a drag!

Go buy yourself a length of 'FROST fencing', say 4ft wide and 5-6' long.
At the front or leading edge add a length of angle, say 2" x2" and bolt that to the fencing using a flat bar on bottom side.
Attach some (2 lengths) of chain from each front corner that you will then attach to the rt and lt side of your tractor's tow bar or even to the 3pt arms if you don't have a bar.
Drag this around maybe adding some weight and you will have a nice finished surface and it will kinda just bury the seeds at the right debth.
With a few passes it will also break up any clumps that might have remained.

Cheap and easy!

PS; I have seen some guys simply drag an old bed spring with decent results.

 

[B2620]

What is "Frost fencing"? is it like chain link fencing?

Thanks,
B2620

Here is a cheap and easy technique that'll do the trick!

Called a drag!

Go buy yourself a length of 'FROST fencing', say 4ft wide and 5-6' long.
At the front or leading edge add a length of angle, say 2" x2" and bolt that to the fencing using a flat bar on bottom side.
Attach some (2 lengths) of chain from each front corner that you will then attach to the rt and lt side of your tractor's tow bar or even to the 3pt arms if you don't have a bar.
Drag this around maybe adding some weight and you will have a nice finished surface and it will kinda just bury the seeds at the right debth.
With a few passes it will also break up any clumps that might have remained.

Cheap and easy!




PS; I have seen some guys simply drag an old bed spring with decent results.

 

[easygo]

I used a drag before and it worked out good. I made it out of a 5' section of 8x10 log and several lengths of chain. I tied rope behind the tractor to attach to the log. Each chain formed a big "U" behind the log and smoothed the surface quiet well. A few passes with this and it was good.

 

[john_bud]

I used 2 I-beams that were 12' long chained together and then chained to the draw bar. Your tractor can pull that and it will level out the ground. Not perfect, but cheap and effective.

jb

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c201/john_bud/Critters/CIMG4225.jpg

 

[tractorman99]

Hear is video of the leinbach yard tool.


YouTube - How To: 72" Pulverizer Yard Tool for Tractor 3point Hitch

 

[blueriver]

Was not very impressed with that Yard Tool Video, I guess its for finish work?

 

[wwalkersd]

I've recently learned that there are two different implements that are both called a "Landscape Rake", at least by some.

The one most often referred to looks like this:

The other one, also referred to by trade name as a Rock Hound (the original, I believe) or Stone Dawg, looks like this:

There are some videos of them in action on YouTube. Search for "Rock Hound".

I believe, in my admittedly limited experience, that the latter implement is what you need to clear your property. I recently rented one to remove rocks from a riding arena, and tried it out on some uncleared land nearby. It removed bushes, roots, rocks, sticks, whatever, and left a surface that looked ready for planting to my untrained eye.

You should definitely RENT, rather than buy, one of these if you decide it's the right thing. Here in San Diego, it cost $250/day for a skid steer and Cat LR8 Landscape Rake from the Cat Rent-It store, plus delivery charge. Way cheaper than buying a $7000 implement.

If you're thinking of using the tractor-pulled 3-point version, make sure you have the necessary hydraulic drive capacity.

 

[kthompson]

It would seem your have sufficient blades to level your dirt and think someone already mentioned chain link fence to rake the final smooth and fair contact for your grass seed. Rake would work but don't see you having one. If you don't need a rake after this then just seed heavy and allow for some not to sprout. If you water it in it probably would do well.

 

[LBrown59]

I used a drag before and it worked out good. I made it out of a 5' section of 8x10 log and several lengths of chain. I tied rope behind the tractor to attach to the log. Each chain formed a big "U" behind the log and smoothed the surface quiet well. A few passes with this and it was good.

This drag works pretty good .
I love the fact that I can pick it up with the 3 point to turn around at the end of each pass to go the other way.
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It's ideal for narrow strips like i'm smoothing out here.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Was not very impressed with that Yard Tool Video, I guess its for finish work?

The video is a little lacking in some ways. Pulverizers have been around for ages. They were a mainstay for landscapers prior to Harley rakes. If the terrain is extremely rough,a box blade is usually needed before and, but I've followed right behind a D7 Cat when I graded my waterways. They weren't nearly "finished" after the dozer, but when the pulverizer was done with it's job, all I needed to do was throw seed on the ground.

No one single tool will do it all.