What do I need to run a root grapple and a 4 in 1 bucket?

[IslandTractor]

Probably ranked by cost
1. Have dealer install 3rd function
2. I install 3rd function yourself from kit
3. Install 3rd function by sourcing parts yourself and own design. Probably also the hardest to do
4. Install diverter using loader joystick for control.
5. Run hoses from rear remote, useing existing remote valve for control.

I did 5 cause I am cheap and the existing remote valve was conveniently located. I did extend the valve control rod in length. Easy for me to do the whole thing for about $150.
But not everyone will have an existing conveniently located valve. Or will want to operate that way. Each method has advantages and disadvantages. It just depends on budget,time, ability and how you want it to work.

I agree with James. I have used both #5 and a WRLong kit diverter. #5 is a PERFECTLY acceptable way to control a grapple and I was every bit as happy with using the rear remote as I am with the much more expensive diverter. If you can drive a 4 on the floor transmission you can operate the grapple easily. The really nice thing about the #5 solution is that you can rig the system yourself in about twenty minutes and go off grappling. Just take a length of garden hose or something similar and run it (without severe bends) between the rear remote fittings and the FEL torque tube. Generally it would go over the rear axle, under the operators station then up one of the FEL mounting posts and down along the FEL arm to the torque tube. Once you've done that mark the length and measure it. That is how long a length of 3/8" hydraulic hose with SAE fittings you need from Surplus Supply (or for more $$ from your local hydraulic shop). Then you just need two pair of quick connect fittings. Should cost less than $100 from Surplus Supply, perhaps 150 from LHS. That's it. Just grab some zipties to secure the hose under the tractor and along the FEL arm. You can get fancy later and install proper cleats if you like. I never got around to replacing the zipties on my CK and none ever came loose or required changing.

 

[k0ua]

I agree with James. I have used both #5 and a WRLong kit diverter. #5 is a PERFECTLY acceptable way to control a grapple and I was every bit as happy with using the rear remote as I am with the much more expensive diverter. If you can drive a 4 on the floor transmission you can operate the grapple easily. The really nice thing about the #5 solution is that you can rig the system yourself in about twenty minutes and go off grappling. Just take a length of garden hose or something similar and run it (without severe bends) between the rear remote fittings and the FEL torque tube. Generally it would go over the rear axle, under the operators station then up one of the FEL mounting posts and down along the FEL arm to the torque tube. Once you've done that mark the length and measure it. That is how long a length of 3/8" hydraulic hose with SAE fittings you need from Surplus Supply (or for more $$ from your local hydraulic shop). Then you just need two pair of quick connect fittings. Should cost less than $100 from Surplus Supply, perhaps 150 from LHS. That's it. Just grab some zipties to secure the hose under the tractor and along the FEL arm. You can get fancy later and install proper cleats if you like. I never got around to replacing the zipties on my CK and none ever came loose or required changing.

One other note, I added a complete set of QD's at the same location as the other loader QD's so that I could easily take the loader off by disconnection of the two extra sets of QD's in the same location. Otherwise you will need to "unroute" you new hose installation to remove the loader... Course if you never remove the loader... then no problem.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

One other note, I added a complete set of QD's at the same location as the other loader QD's so that I could easily take the loader off by disconnection of the two extra sets of QD's in the same location. Otherwise you will need to "unroute" you new hose installation to remove the loader... Course if you never remove the loader... then no problem.

I appreciate all of this info. I'm trying to take it in and read and watch all the instructions I have been directed toward.

David

 

[IslandTractor]

One other note, I added a complete set of QD's at the same location as the other loader QD's so that I could easily take the loader off by disconnection of the two extra sets of QD's in the same location. Otherwise you will need to "unroute" you new hose installation to remove the loader... Course if you never remove the loader... then no problem.

My CK had a split line too with duals sets of QDs. I never took the loader off in the three years I had it. I do agree though if you intend to routinely take the loader off then opting for two shorter lines and a break point just where the lines start to climb the loader mount would save a little time cutting and rewrapping zip ties. That said, it takes only a couple of minutes to cut or replace zip ties. Probably not a lot if any labor saved.

 

[xtn]

Used the rear remote myself. Just ran hoses forward as described above. Sure, it would be a little bit nicer not to have to move my hand from the loader control down to the remote valve lever beside the seat, but it's not that big a deal.