Now I'm a bit confused; need some clarification. When I removed the floor plate, what I see is exactly what's pictured in the parts manual page 2.4. The arrow pointing to the unit (#1) says "Hydrostatic Transmission," with an "O" in "hydro. On page 2.10 the heading reads "Hydrastatic Transmission," with an "A" in Hydra. I don't see anything resembling this in the compartment of my tractor. Questions: Is this a picture of the internal workings that I don't see, or does it pertain to a different tractor? And, if it's not for my T5C, then is there an equivalent bypass valve on my unit (page 2.4) or is it something that could be installed - because it surely is needed at times? Thanks to all for help.
What do you do if . . . . .
- Thread starter Alan7s
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wdchyd
Elite Member
Do you see where the "#13 hoses" are?
if you use one of those hoses to connect the two fittings together (hyd motor #10) it would accomplish the same task as using a by-pass valve
Maybe Terramite used a different hydrostatic pump on your machine
if you use one of those hoses to connect the two fittings together (hyd motor #10) it would accomplish the same task as using a by-pass valve
Maybe Terramite used a different hydrostatic pump on your machine
wdchyd
Elite Member
Yes, BUT.......you wouldn't want to tow very far or fast....you could do damage to the motor
by connecting the fittings with hoses it will keep the oil circulating and keep contaminates out of the ports
OK Thanks very much; I think I got it now. On the pump/transmission side the engine isn't running so those hoses can just hang loose - maybe just covered to keep contaminants out. On the motor side, a hose shunts between the two ports and the oil can flow but not impede the wheels. Sounds like one port side needs a swivel connector so that the hose can be threaded in.
the old grind
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The free-spool valve should be on top of the 'charge plate' section toward the rear between the 'relief' vlv caps that are just above hose outlets, if yours has it. Some of this stuff is a bear to get at. For that reason I hate to see hoses come off ... awfully easy to get grit into either major component afield & wreck more than one.
Don't know which engine you have. Mine's a Honda GX-620. Learned a lot when helping another member re-power his T5C. Turns out that my older ignition is 'ground to stop' and his GX-690 (newer series) is 'ground to run'. Know which yours has, including seeing an 'M' terminal on the ign switch with older power. My I-S had been replaced lacking that & I used a relay's NC terminal to provide the gd when switched off. (Not sure which way Kohler would be.)
The reason I mention this is because you may want to check that your coils are grounding or not for whichever ign setup. Guess wrong and you'll be banging your head .. or not starting because of the possible confusion. (My 50" ZTR has more complicated wiring than my T5C.)
Your T-M may also have two electric fuel shutoffs to check out. One is on the 'firewall' and the other would be on the fuel bowl of the carb. (I added a manual one, too) Note that the tank's outlet is just a fitting threaded onto a welded-on boss at the bottom. There's nothing to keep swarf or rust flakes from plugging it up, and I've had to huff air thru' to clear that more than once while on a dig. These guys are mostly easy to tinker with, but a bit of 'been there' sure helps with diagnosis.
edit: It would be nice if T-M's manual(s) (ie:2006) didn't mix the years/varieties as shown in the pix on ppg 2.4, 2.10, etc. Be assured that the lads who answer the phones will not be as confused as we often are.
Don't know which engine you have. Mine's a Honda GX-620. Learned a lot when helping another member re-power his T5C. Turns out that my older ignition is 'ground to stop' and his GX-690 (newer series) is 'ground to run'. Know which yours has, including seeing an 'M' terminal on the ign switch with older power. My I-S had been replaced lacking that & I used a relay's NC terminal to provide the gd when switched off. (Not sure which way Kohler would be.)
The reason I mention this is because you may want to check that your coils are grounding or not for whichever ign setup. Guess wrong and you'll be banging your head .. or not starting because of the possible confusion. (My 50" ZTR has more complicated wiring than my T5C.)
Your T-M may also have two electric fuel shutoffs to check out. One is on the 'firewall' and the other would be on the fuel bowl of the carb. (I added a manual one, too) Note that the tank's outlet is just a fitting threaded onto a welded-on boss at the bottom. There's nothing to keep swarf or rust flakes from plugging it up, and I've had to huff air thru' to clear that more than once while on a dig. These guys are mostly easy to tinker with, but a bit of 'been there' sure helps with diagnosis.
edit: It would be nice if T-M's manual(s) (ie:2006) didn't mix the years/varieties as shown in the pix on ppg 2.4, 2.10, etc. Be assured that the lads who answer the phones will not be as confused as we often are.
Last edited:
The free-spool valve should be on top of the 'charge plate' section toward the rear between the 'relief' vlv caps that are just above hose outlets, if yours has it. Some of this stuff is a bear to get at. For that reason I hate to see hoses come off ... awfully easy to get grit into either major component afield & wreck more than one.
Don't know which engine you have. Mine's a Honda GX-620. Learned a lot when helping another member re-power his T5C. Turns out that my older ignition is 'ground to stop' and his GX-690 (newer series) is 'ground to run'. Know which yours has, including seeing an 'M' terminal on the ign switch with older power. My I-S had been replaced lacking that & I used a relay's NC terminal to provide the gd when switched off. (Not sure which way Kohler would be.)
The reason I mention this is because you may want to check that your coils are grounding or not for whichever ign setup. Guess wrong and you'll be banging your head .. or not starting because of the possible confusion. (My 50" ZTR has more complicated wiring than my T5C.)
Your T-M may also have two electric fuel shutoffs to check out. One is on the 'firewall' and the other would be on the fuel bowl of the carb. (I added a manual one, too) Note that the tank's outlet is just a fitting threaded onto a welded-on boss at the bottom. There's nothing to keep swarf or rust flakes from plugging it up, and I've had to huff air thru' to clear that more than once while on a dig. These guys are mostly easy to tinker with, but a bit of 'been there' sure helps with diagnosis.
edit: It would be nice if T-M's manual(s) (ie:2006) didn't mix the years/varieties as shown in the pix on ppg 2.4, 2.10, etc. Be assured that the lads who answer the phones will not be as confused as we often are.
Mines a Kohler command 20 HP
the old grind
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It seems the Kohler versions use 'ground to stop' like my non-current Honda. The ign sw's 'M' terminal is connected to the coils (otherwise un-powered) and to the low oil shutdown. Easy to rule out oil switch (NC) failure by disconnecting it, btw. Either can/should ground the coils (lo oil pres, 'M' only when ign is 'off'.)
Doesn't appear to be an elec fuel shutoff on Kohler carb, so there'd just be T-M's if not removed. You should hear/feel it 'click' when switching on/off, but it could still be plugged. I added the man shutoff 'cuz I trust my eyes (if not my memory) and put it downstream of the filter with no clamps but a good grip on the hose. Both came from the mower shop for cheap, and I don't mind the plastic there a bit. If you see my 'hood' up, expect me to be huffing on the fuel line upstream or down. (I didn't inhale ..)
Spark check is easy with both plugs removed to lower compression, but be sure to keep them both held to ground somehow when cranking. The 'coils' are coil packs with a semiconductor or two molded in that may pop when it's literally seeing infinite resistance. Honda has 'resistor' plug-wire caps that can fail. Kohler might, too.
btw: My 'cold' starting issue resulted from a coil that sparked outside ok but not when installed. One cyl would catch and disengage the starter before the other one would. It would crank-puff-whirr & I'd fumble with the throttle and choke way too much. Warm exhaust pipe said to change the other coil if I chose to shell out. $80 and well worth starting like never before, hot or cold.
All that said, I never expect one cylinder, plug, wire to shut down a multi, so if you have a carb or wiring stoppage the bits to fix 'er up might cost less. (see above .. )
So, "Whadda we got so far?"
Hudson and Landry Ajax Liquor Store - YouTube
Doesn't appear to be an elec fuel shutoff on Kohler carb, so there'd just be T-M's if not removed. You should hear/feel it 'click' when switching on/off, but it could still be plugged. I added the man shutoff 'cuz I trust my eyes (if not my memory) and put it downstream of the filter with no clamps but a good grip on the hose. Both came from the mower shop for cheap, and I don't mind the plastic there a bit. If you see my 'hood' up, expect me to be huffing on the fuel line upstream or down. (I didn't inhale ..)
Spark check is easy with both plugs removed to lower compression, but be sure to keep them both held to ground somehow when cranking. The 'coils' are coil packs with a semiconductor or two molded in that may pop when it's literally seeing infinite resistance. Honda has 'resistor' plug-wire caps that can fail. Kohler might, too.
btw: My 'cold' starting issue resulted from a coil that sparked outside ok but not when installed. One cyl would catch and disengage the starter before the other one would. It would crank-puff-whirr & I'd fumble with the throttle and choke way too much. Warm exhaust pipe said to change the other coil if I chose to shell out. $80 and well worth starting like never before, hot or cold.
All that said, I never expect one cylinder, plug, wire to shut down a multi, so if you have a carb or wiring stoppage the bits to fix 'er up might cost less. (see above .. )
So, "Whadda we got so far?"
Hudson and Landry Ajax Liquor Store - YouTube
Thanks Old Grind for all that helpful info; I'll have to study that for awhile - some of it is over my head.
Terrasteve; I was hoping you wouldn't ask what happened to the engine. Only got 50 hours on it so you can guess it was me. Changing the oil with the tractor half way out of the garage was not smart. When the promised snow storm started in earnest - with wind - and I couldn't close the door; I decided to back it in, and that's when the engine cut out. Jacking it onto planks with roller pipes and pushing it back in worked, but lot's of unneeded work. Later I went out to check the situation and saw the jug of oil sitting there and remembered I had not refilled the oil. Very thankful for the good design that had a low oil pressure shutoff switch that worked! Poured in the oil and she started right up.
After 50 years changing oil, and owning 4 vehicles, you wouldn't expect a blunder like that, but as Grampy said "Just goes to show how weak minded some folks is."
Terrasteve; I was hoping you wouldn't ask what happened to the engine. Only got 50 hours on it so you can guess it was me. Changing the oil with the tractor half way out of the garage was not smart. When the promised snow storm started in earnest - with wind - and I couldn't close the door; I decided to back it in, and that's when the engine cut out. Jacking it onto planks with roller pipes and pushing it back in worked, but lot's of unneeded work. Later I went out to check the situation and saw the jug of oil sitting there and remembered I had not refilled the oil. Very thankful for the good design that had a low oil pressure shutoff switch that worked! Poured in the oil and she started right up.
After 50 years changing oil, and owning 4 vehicles, you wouldn't expect a blunder like that, but as Grampy said "Just goes to show how weak minded some folks is."
Terrasteve
Silver Member
Don't feel bad, I forgot to put the oil drain plug in my wife's new van a couple years back. Luckily she came outside and ask me why there was a giant puddle of oil on the driveway under her van. No harm done, but 5 quarts of high dollar synthetic oil ran right out and on to the ground. She still hasn't let me forget about that one lol. Glad the low oil shutdown worked and no damage was done.