What else to buy?

[RandyinTN]

Tomorrow or Friday I plan on making an offer on a NX4510H with roof, FEL, and backhoe. Also plan on buying a box blade for it at the same time if the offer is accepted. I cut our grass with a small Deere so no need for a brush hog. At some point will buy a post hole digger and possibly pallet forks.

Is there a need to spend extra $$$ for hydraulic fittings/connections?

 

[jeff9366]

No need for remotes unless you want the post hole auger to operate in front of the tractor, rather than mounted on the Three Point Hitch where it would be powered by PTO.

Be sure to order SSQA (Skid Steer Quick Attach) two lever coupler for your bucket to FEL connection. You will want SSQA for pallet forks.

Buy a Box Blade with a weight of at least 125 pounds per foot of width; to provide counterbalance weight for FEL loads when Backhoe is off the tractor. One hundred fifty pounds per foot of width better.

GOOD TRACTOR. BEST OF LUCK.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Tomorrow or Friday I plan on making an offer on a NX4510H with roof, FEL, and backhoe. Also plan on buying a box blade for it at the same time if the offer is accepted. I cut our grass with a small Deere so no need for a brush hog. At some point will buy a post hole digger and possibly pallet forks.

Is there a need to spend extra $$$ for hydraulic fittings/connections?

Are you going to be doing any grading, or are you buying that box blade to look at it? Get at a minimum of 1 set of rear remotes for a hydraulic top link, 2 or 3 if you are really going to grade. Get the rear remotes, you can get the 3pt cylinders later after you get tired of making the adjustments that you need manually. Probably by the end of your first day of grading.

 

[rngrrymd]

Tomorrow or Friday I plan on making an offer on a NX4510H with roof, FEL, and backhoe. Also plan on buying a box blade for it at the same time if the offer is accepted. I cut our grass with a small Deere so no need for a brush hog. At some point will buy a post hole digger and possibly pallet forks.

Is there a need to spend extra $$$ for hydraulic fittings/connections?

If you plan on getting a grapple you could get 3rd function installed up front. Also filled tires. As Jeff said, make sure loader is SSQA for future implements (KL6010 usually is but never hurts to verify). Forks run anywhere from $500 to $850 new from a dealer anytime. Post hole diggers can be bought for $600ish to $1,000 anywhere. Only reason to get forks and post hole is if you're getting 0% or low apr promo and you are trying to keep cash for something else, otherwise just get any time.

Tractor dealers seem to be a little less moving on accessories but when I purchased my wife her new Mazda CX-5 last December I specified 8 accessories (remote start, mats, door kicks, etc) to be included in the pricing. The cost for the accessories installed was quoted at roughly $1600 - $1700 by most dealers but the dealer I bought from charged only $900 and basically washed the labor. Never hurts to try and negotiate items in. Rock em Randy.

 

[RandyinTN]

I only need to regrade my 500 foot driveway about twice a year. My friend has been doing it for me in the past with an older tractor and a simple box blade.
Why would I need anything with hydraulics?

I do not plan to buy any other implements other than the box blade when I buy the tractor and it will be separate from the tractor deal.

 

[/pine]

Are you going to be doing any grading, or are you buying that box blade to look at it? Get at a minimum of 1 set of rear remotes for a hydraulic top link, 2 or 3 if you are really going to grade. Get the rear remotes, you can get the 3pt cylinders later after you get tired of making the adjustments that you need manually. Probably by the end of your first day of grading.

Just a "thumb grapple" on the FEL will be a huge improvement over any FEL without one or a full grapple...with the right guidance it can be a DIY installation or even fabrication with a little ability...
Far and away (IMO) there is no better improvement that can be made on any tractor that employs a 3PH for most of its use (barring dedicated machines that do not do grade work etc)...

Adding hydraulic top and tilt to a 3PH is like going from a Schwinn to a Harley...!

 

[mopardude318]

Having hydraulic TopNTilt cylinders will absolutely help in box blade work by being able to make adjustments on the fly without getting off your tractor! Highly recommended! Get 3 remotes if ya can.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Adding hydraulic top and tilt to a 3PH is like going from a Schwinn to a Harley...!

Agree 100%. But I'm doing without it so far. Involves a lot of hopping on and off the tractor to adjust the 3PH. Good exercise. No doubt next year I'll spring for the $1800 top-n-tilt and then talk about how I can't believe I ever lived without it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I only need to regrade my 500 foot driveway about twice a year. My friend has been doing it for me in the past with an older tractor and a simple box blade.
Why would I need anything with hydraulics? Why did you ask?

I do not plan to buy any other implements other than the box blade when I buy the tractor and it will be separate from the tractor deal.

No need for rear hydraulics, they just makes things easier. Manual adjustments are a pain as you will most likely find out.

Very difficult to make recommendations when specifics are not mentioned. (What you are actually going to be doing.)

Get the box blade and be happy. It will all be a big improvement from asking others and or doing the work by hand. :thumbsup:

 

[RandyinTN]

I can get a box blade in the $600 range. How much are you guys talking about for a model with hydraulics plus the cost of adding the rear remotes?

Ya'all sure like to spend money. I only need to grade 500 feet of hard packed gravel twice a year.