GManBart
Elite Member
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- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
Not only that, but keeping things like filters/fluids/etc would be simpler with two identical machines.
What has happened to tractors? Help us choose another workhorse for our tree farm.
- Thread starter cutamerc
- Start date
- Views: 16857
Not only that, but keeping things like filters/fluids/etc would be simpler with two identical machines.
JerryG
Super Member
The Massey 2600 HD (heavy duty) series low profile version fits all your requirements as far as I can tell.
http://www.masseyferguson.us/Library/upload/massey-ferguson-hd-2600-series-brochure-08-2012.pdf
http://www.masseyferguson.us/Library/upload/massey-ferguson-hd-2600-series-brochure-08-2012.pdf
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Some of the equation of new vs used is swayed by weather or not it's a cash deal or you will finance the cost of the additional mechine. If cash, I would find a good used 3930, operation and maintenance will be the same as what you're used to... same filters same belts same "feel" while operating. That's why our family SUV has the same drivetrain as our trucks... interchangeable spare parts.
The park gear feature on the JD 50xxE series is noteable, I have wondered why every manual trans DOESN'T have one ever since I realized an auto trans does at a tender young age of about 10.
The park gear feature on the JD 50xxE series is noteable, I have wondered why every manual trans DOESN'T have one ever since I realized an auto trans does at a tender young age of about 10.
MessickFarmEqu
Super Member
IMO... for a Christmas tree farm I'd be looking at used low profile orchard tractors. The market for them is not as good as your typical 4WD since its a limited customer base. You should be able to find a good one well within your budget, and probably with a cab to boot.
dntfxr
Platinum Member
I'll add too that my bank had no problem financing my 19 year old tractor. That kinda surprised me, but it definitely made a difference in my decision.
TJP89
Veteran Member
I'll throw my :2cents: in here, take it as you will.
first off, I agree completely with everything people have said. I think Mahindra makes a very impressive tractor, but I have found them pricey new. As Messicks said, you should look into a specialty tractor. I believe both JD and Kubota make such machines, and they are bare bones exactly what you are looking for. They may be a little hard to find however. The JD E series is definitely economy, but at least in the CUT range, I have heard some things about the rear axles not being built as well as they should. Also I believe they are lighter because of the heavy use of plastic. Not trying to trash-talk JD, just reporting what I have heard. Some suggested the CIH Farmall A series. I would definitely look into these. They are not meant to use with a loader, though one is available. With a 8 by 2 mech tranny in 55 to 75 HP and very bare bones with 4WD they should suit your needs very well; however, I can't guess ar a price though. Also, the Kioti DK series might be worth a look. They have reputation of heavier tractors than normal. however the DK series is a very featured tractor and would probably be out of your price range new. However, if you look you might find a DK55 or DK90 used within your range, in which case you would have a very nice tractor at a good price. Of course used your options open up, but be careful. From your description I wouldn't want to by your current tractor, and you wouldn't want a tractor that someone else has been abusing like you have. Keep looking and I'm sure you'll find the right tractor.
Again, just my :2cents:
first off, I agree completely with everything people have said. I think Mahindra makes a very impressive tractor, but I have found them pricey new. As Messicks said, you should look into a specialty tractor. I believe both JD and Kubota make such machines, and they are bare bones exactly what you are looking for. They may be a little hard to find however. The JD E series is definitely economy, but at least in the CUT range, I have heard some things about the rear axles not being built as well as they should. Also I believe they are lighter because of the heavy use of plastic. Not trying to trash-talk JD, just reporting what I have heard. Some suggested the CIH Farmall A series. I would definitely look into these. They are not meant to use with a loader, though one is available. With a 8 by 2 mech tranny in 55 to 75 HP and very bare bones with 4WD they should suit your needs very well; however, I can't guess ar a price though. Also, the Kioti DK series might be worth a look. They have reputation of heavier tractors than normal. however the DK series is a very featured tractor and would probably be out of your price range new. However, if you look you might find a DK55 or DK90 used within your range, in which case you would have a very nice tractor at a good price. Of course used your options open up, but be careful. From your description I wouldn't want to by your current tractor, and you wouldn't want a tractor that someone else has been abusing like you have. Keep looking and I'm sure you'll find the right tractor.
Again, just my :2cents:
TJP89
Veteran Member
Here for example is a 75A used. with loader, but, them things is useful, and you could take it off or buy tractor only.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=8808573
Looks like a low riding tractor too.
http://www.tractorhouse.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=8808573
Looks like a low riding tractor too.
Loadstar
Platinum Member
If you buy another similar 3930.... Filters, oil, parts, you name it are the same and easily stocked. It has a proven track record with you so I would tire out from an intensive search before I purchased new. Then I would go to your new holland dealer and ask what kind of deals will they give you to stay blue.
Verticaltrx
Veteran Member
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JD 5055E, NH Workmaster 55, CIH Farmall 55A, MF 2615, Kubota mx/m series, take your pick (or go up a size in any of those.) All are moderately heavy, basic tractors with 4wd and a manual transmission. I truly believe the design of those tractors are good, but what is lacking nowadays is quality control. You might get a perfect tractor new, or you might get one that has a few issues that have to be sorted out.
boggen
Elite Member
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hills, hills, and more hills. and emergency brake not working, and frequent on/off.
a hydrostatic transmission, i would most likely stay away from. it doesn't matter if you are in gear or out of gear. they will roll on you no matter what, and only way to stop them is with the emergency brake when tractor is off. since you noted pretty much a "pull tractor" and not a multi task tractor that a weekend warrior might have. i would more look at a standard manual transmission. this will let ya set a gear and let the engine brake for ya some going down hills, and leting you shut off engine, and hold some what, before it finally rolls.
i doubt you will need a creeper package from sounds of it, but more likely a generic manual transmission, and if it offers a few more gears say (hi,med,low) vs hi/lo, get the hi,med,low package. more likely difference between 8 gears to 12 gears or some such.
if ya running hills, consider "spacers" for rear tires. i would most likely stay away from "duals" (2 tires per side on rear), or industrial R4 tires. they give to much floating, and would more likely let rear end slide away from you. and in that the standard agriculture R1 tires more likely better fit for ya.
your wet clutches and wet brakes more likely to last longer, than dry brakes. (clutches and brakes set in oil inside of everything)
your elevation could be an issue. runs good at the bottom, but rough at the top or vice vs. a turbo charger could possibly help with this. but at same time, if you are having employee's run machine. bad habits, of not dealing with turbo charger correctly = short life of turbo charger. turbo chargers need some "cool down time" before ya shut tractor down. if tractor run's poorly, you may need to see if manufacture can adjust the computer chip for fuel injection, to deal with elevation, and getting correct air/fuel mixture, regardless of turbo charger or not.
if you do not run any city,township, county, state, roads and just your tree farm, you might consider chains for tires. for extra grip year round.
some manufactures do not recommend filling rear and/or front tires. (for rear tires, it is normally when a backhoe is placed on it), and filling rears with fluid is normally fine in all other means and for the fronts, the front is just not heavy duty enough, normally the operators manual will give this sort of info. and the front tires if they can be filled or not with a fluid.
front weight rack mount may be an additional cost, for suit case weights, along with additional cost for rear tire rim weights.
if ya goto most major manufactur websties, you can "build your tractor" through there website, they normally offer different size rims and tires. you might be better off going directly through a local dealer, if you want smaller size tires. to help lower COG (center of gravity) on the tractor. with 4wd / MFWD or like, you need to keep correct ratio between tire diameters, so ya don't overload things and bind up the 4wd stuff.
there are some companies that are purely dedicated to modify standard tractors from major manufactures, for certain conditions, say orchard farmers, or vineyards, to those folks that work the ugly slopes. most of what i have seen from research in the past, was the final drive (what comes off transmission / pto hosing, and extends out to the rims. and completely replacing what comes from manufacture for there setup. i came across more "combine" specialized companies than i did with regular modified tractors. (combines needing certain angle and if to steep, your crop is not harvested but blown out the back)
i can not remember it, john deer, and kubota does not have it, but i want to say mahindra does, it is something to do with PTO or transmission. it was a function, that week end warriors would most likely never really use. but it may serve you. but *arghs* it is right there on tip of my tongue, something to do with reverse something is what i want to say.
one other issue that came up from research long ago. was oil pan on engines. some engines could not handle angles very well, due to all the oil would run to one side vs the other side. and it was how the oil pickups going to the oil pump were and shape of the oil pan.
===========
take above with a grain of salt, i would be more arm chair bozo, vs real life experience than what others have had for your conditions. and i could be making more of a big deal, than what it should be.
a hydrostatic transmission, i would most likely stay away from. it doesn't matter if you are in gear or out of gear. they will roll on you no matter what, and only way to stop them is with the emergency brake when tractor is off. since you noted pretty much a "pull tractor" and not a multi task tractor that a weekend warrior might have. i would more look at a standard manual transmission. this will let ya set a gear and let the engine brake for ya some going down hills, and leting you shut off engine, and hold some what, before it finally rolls.
i doubt you will need a creeper package from sounds of it, but more likely a generic manual transmission, and if it offers a few more gears say (hi,med,low) vs hi/lo, get the hi,med,low package. more likely difference between 8 gears to 12 gears or some such.
if ya running hills, consider "spacers" for rear tires. i would most likely stay away from "duals" (2 tires per side on rear), or industrial R4 tires. they give to much floating, and would more likely let rear end slide away from you. and in that the standard agriculture R1 tires more likely better fit for ya.
your wet clutches and wet brakes more likely to last longer, than dry brakes. (clutches and brakes set in oil inside of everything)
your elevation could be an issue. runs good at the bottom, but rough at the top or vice vs. a turbo charger could possibly help with this. but at same time, if you are having employee's run machine. bad habits, of not dealing with turbo charger correctly = short life of turbo charger. turbo chargers need some "cool down time" before ya shut tractor down. if tractor run's poorly, you may need to see if manufacture can adjust the computer chip for fuel injection, to deal with elevation, and getting correct air/fuel mixture, regardless of turbo charger or not.
if you do not run any city,township, county, state, roads and just your tree farm, you might consider chains for tires. for extra grip year round.
some manufactures do not recommend filling rear and/or front tires. (for rear tires, it is normally when a backhoe is placed on it), and filling rears with fluid is normally fine in all other means and for the fronts, the front is just not heavy duty enough, normally the operators manual will give this sort of info. and the front tires if they can be filled or not with a fluid.
front weight rack mount may be an additional cost, for suit case weights, along with additional cost for rear tire rim weights.
if ya goto most major manufactur websties, you can "build your tractor" through there website, they normally offer different size rims and tires. you might be better off going directly through a local dealer, if you want smaller size tires. to help lower COG (center of gravity) on the tractor. with 4wd / MFWD or like, you need to keep correct ratio between tire diameters, so ya don't overload things and bind up the 4wd stuff.
there are some companies that are purely dedicated to modify standard tractors from major manufactures, for certain conditions, say orchard farmers, or vineyards, to those folks that work the ugly slopes. most of what i have seen from research in the past, was the final drive (what comes off transmission / pto hosing, and extends out to the rims. and completely replacing what comes from manufacture for there setup. i came across more "combine" specialized companies than i did with regular modified tractors. (combines needing certain angle and if to steep, your crop is not harvested but blown out the back)
i can not remember it, john deer, and kubota does not have it, but i want to say mahindra does, it is something to do with PTO or transmission. it was a function, that week end warriors would most likely never really use. but it may serve you. but *arghs* it is right there on tip of my tongue, something to do with reverse something is what i want to say.
one other issue that came up from research long ago. was oil pan on engines. some engines could not handle angles very well, due to all the oil would run to one side vs the other side. and it was how the oil pickups going to the oil pump were and shape of the oil pan.
===========
take above with a grain of salt, i would be more arm chair bozo, vs real life experience than what others have had for your conditions. and i could be making more of a big deal, than what it should be.
