What have you done with/to your GC Series 2300, 2400, 1700 Tractor TODAY

[Dmacleo]

I've been trying out my Tractor Supply quick hitch and Countyline 60" landscape rake, also from Tractor Supply. The landscape rake is actually made by Tartar USA. The wheel kit for the rake is a must have because it's nearly impossible to keep the three point hitch at the height you want on these GC subcompact tractors. So far it's working great. I did have to buy bushings to go from cat 1 to cat 3 on the implement pins so they fit the quick hitch correctly.View attachment 749450View attachment 749451View attachment 749452View attachment 749453

I have a countyline 7ft grader blade, ended up moving back from titan QH to pats QH as the extra 2.5" lift really mattered with the blade. normal QH keep same lift height while the Pats act like longer arms and lift higher.
when fully lifted what is your clearance under the wheels?

 

[PJRAM]

I have a countyline 7ft grader blade, ended up moving back from titan QH to pats QH as the extra 2.5" lift really mattered with the blade. normal QH keep same lift height while the Pats act like longer arms and lift higher.
when fully lifted what is your clearance under the wheels?

The clearance under the wheels wasn't enough at first to remove the wheels to change the wheel hieght with the bushings they give you. So I adjusted my top link and that solved the problem. To be honest there is barely an inch clearance under the wheels when the three point if fully raised. It's just barely enough to remove the wheels.

 

[Dmacleo]

The clearance under the wheels wasn't enough at first to remove the wheels to change the wheel hieght with the bushings they give you. So I adjusted my top link and that solved the problem. To be honest there is barely an inch clearance under the wheels when the three point if fully raised. It's just barely enough to remove the wheels.

as I suspected, the QH type you (and I in past) use really easy to use but the limited lift on subcompact was killing me with blade, snowblower,tiller,trailer hitch so I went back to pats QH.
that 2.5+ inches matters sometimes.
at any time I am swapping from tiller to blade to trailer hitch many many times during a week.in winter its blade, snowblower, trailer hitch.
had to go with setup that gave lift height and allowed me to keep top link set so I didn't need to mess with.
real catch 22 with SCUTS

 

[Dmacleo]

quite often when snowblowing with rear mounted blower, and occasionally when tilling, I have to lift weight off seat (not standing up just lifting a bit) to check something or adjust blower direction. seat switch kills me then.
flip side is when mowing I must have that switch in play.

so I made up jumpers for it.
pic 1 is switch bypassed, jumper on tractor side wired together to bypass switch. jumper on switch side, while it does nothing electrically, in place to prevent corrosion when bypassed. if something happens to actual bypass jumper I can just plug this one in and bypass will work.




pic 2 is switch in play and the 2 jumpers connected to prevent corrosion, wiring will fit under seat frame with no interference with seat adjust or range control safety switch.
can bypass or put back into play the seat switch on 45 seconds.


all connections soldered and heat shrink in place, electrical tape is for extra protection plus wire strength when connecting, disconnecting. truth be told I should have made my switch cut about 6 inches from switch instead of 2 inches I did but...it all works. FWIW wire into switch does NOT disconnect at switch. it is an approx 16" harness or so. and connector end hidden in rear in a maze of wires which is why I made a cut instead of utilizing existing harness connector.

 

[lpakiz]

Dave, that's a great idea. I'll be going to go to that system soon. Right now, I have a cut-of piece of paper clip inserted into the plug, then taped.

 

[Dmacleo]

Dave, that's a great idea. I'll be going to go to that system soon. Right now, I have a cut-of piece of paper clip inserted into the plug, then taped.

on a 1532 access to connector was REAL easy so yeah...a piece of wire with 2 spade connectors was used. that tractor never mows nor sees sidehills (really never sees any hills) so could get away with it.
I did consider using a dpdt switch but corrosion and vibration was a factor, something happens in well below 0 temps to this I can make it work in seconds.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

quite often when snowblowing with rear mounted blower, and occasionally when tilling, I have to lift weight off seat (not standing up just lifting a bit) to check something or adjust blower direction. seat switch kills me then.
flip side is when mowing I must have that switch in play.

so I made up jumpers for it.
pic 1 is switch bypassed, jumper on tractor side wired together to bypass switch. jumper on switch side, while it does nothing electrically, in place to prevent corrosion when bypassed. if something happens to actual bypass jumper I can just plug this one in and bypass will work.

View attachment 749997


pic 2 is switch in play and the 2 jumpers connected to prevent corrosion, wiring will fit under seat frame with no interference with seat adjust or range control safety switch.
can bypass or put back into play the seat switch on 45 seconds.

View attachment 750001
all connections soldered and heat shrink in place, electrical tape is for extra protection plus wire strength when connecting, disconnecting. truth be told I should have made my switch cut about 6 inches from switch instead of 2 inches I did but...it all works. FWIW wire into switch does NOT disconnect at switch. it is an approx 16" harness or so. and connector end hidden in rear in a maze of wires which is why I made a cut instead of utilizing existing harness connector.

Definitely a great idea for ease of use! Good job!

 

[Dmacleo]

Definitely a great idea for ease of use! Good job!

well it works for me, and I'll prob set the 1532 (that I use often) to this setup to be safe. total cost was about 15$ which included EXTRA plugs so.... yeah.
from looks of it gonna be doing the 1532 as well as a 2021 GC1723 AND 1725M in next few weeks.
honestly, more often than not, that switch either does nothing for you OR hurts you BUT the thing is there are times that switch saves you depending on work being done. AND THAT ITEM IS KEY!!!
this way, in a few seconds, I can make sure job done safely and I, and the other operators, am safe.

edit: yup a MF1732, a GC1723, and a GC1725M all getting done the same manner over next 2 weeks. each owner ordered the connectors needed as I only got enough left to do 2 tractors.

 

[cdaigle430]

I would never circumvent a safety item especially on a tractor. I have a snowblower and i will gladly live with the pto safety switch any day.

There should be a disclaimer for all posts of this nature...do at your own risk, life, limb, relative, pet.etc.

 

[Dmacleo]

I would never circumvent a safety item especially on a tractor. I have a snowblower and i will gladly live with the pto safety switch any day.

There should be a disclaimer for all posts of this nature...do at your own risk, life, limb, relative, pet.etc.

this is true, and I did state similar in posts.

occasionally when tilling, I have to lift weight off seat (not standing up just lifting a bit) to check something or adjust blower direction. seat switch kills me then.
flip side is when mowing I must have that switch in play.

flip side is when tractor suddenly dies it can also effect your safety.
an either/or setup never works for all conditions. yet this switch creates that either/or condition.
9 +/- months a year the switch will be in play.
3 +/- months a year it will be bypassed.