What implement(s) to repair and maintain two miles of gravel road?

[Too many Kubotas]

If only getting one implement at first, I'd definitely start with a heavy 3-way blade. I really like my Bison NVHL 270XHD, which is probably borderline too heavy for the M6040, but works really well.

Looking at the photos I'm pretty sure that dragging the blade angled at 30-40 degrees several times over those highs and lows, and in opposite directions, would minimize or eliminate them.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Thanks guys, your responses are very informative and helpful!

Looks like a Road Boss LPGS and a rear blade it is. That beaver valley unit at 1,300lbs looks like a beast!

Also that top and tilt kit looks like a winner, but I may have to hold out on that till next year. Also nice work on that truck strut on the top link. Might have to try that out.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

A little update. I've ordered a C8 Road Boss LPGS (1200lbs). Unfortunately it's a 4-5 week wait on that. Hopefully it will get here before the snow does!

Also, just purchased a used Bison 270 XHD 9ft rear blade with tail wheel kit. It has hydraulic height adjustment on the tail wheel and hydraulic tilt on the blade. The blade angle and offset are manual, but they do sell a cylinder kit for it if I feel the need. It is indeed a beast of a blade at over 1,800lbs with the tail wheel kit.

The only catch is the dealer wanted $2800 to freight it to me, just one state over (650 miles). Ouch! That's almost as much as the blade itself, so I guess I'll be going for a drive. But..... I have to wait until my tractor (and pallet forks) arrive, so I have a way to unload the blade off the rental trailer when I get it home.

So things are slowly falling into place. I can't wait to tackle this project. Time to start clearing out the barn to make space.

This is just a stock photo, but it looks a lot like this.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

If only you had a trailer....oh, never mind.

For the blade angle and offset, look at what Surplus Center has with the correct strokes, or close to it. Ideally also with the correct ends, but those aren't too hard to modify if you have a welder.

It may not be for a couple of days, but I could measure the ones on mine.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

If only you had a trailer....oh, never mind.

I knew you were going to say that lol.

 

[paulsharvey]

There is a pretty detailed thread started by Forest Man, using a much smaller tractor, but I'll try to find it and copy a bit od it here

 

[paulsharvey]

"So best bang for the buck; box blades are cheap and readily available used. They are relatively easy to use effectively, although not quick to master; they can do a lot; I would say they are either the Goldilocks or the 'neither fish nor fowl' of the list

Easiest to use; rear land plane scraper; most expensive probably, and kinda the least versatile

Most versatile; a rear grader blade with tilt, pivot, and slide. Probably hardest to master"

Thats what I posted in Forestmans thread. There is also another option, but I don't think it what you need; a loader mounted 6 way dozer style blade. It can do a Ton of things, but frankly, it's takes a lot of skill to grade with.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

"So best bang for the buck; box blades are cheap and readily available used. They are relatively easy to use effectively, although not quick to master; they can do a lot; I would say they are either the Goldilocks or the 'neither fish nor fowl' of the list

Easiest to use; rear land plane scraper; most expensive probably, and kinda the least versatile

Most versatile; a rear grader blade with tilt, pivot, and slide. Probably hardest to master"

Thats what I posted in Forestmans thread. There is also another option, but I don't think it what you need; a loader mounted 6 way dozer style blade. It can do a Ton of things, but frankly, it's takes a lot of skill to grade with.

Hopefully between the LPGS and the rear blade I ordered, I can get good results with a bit of practice.

 

[2manyrocks]

Now that you have the equipment sorted out, I have found these technical "how to" guides at the Center for Dirt and Gravel road studies to be very helpful. https://dirtandgravel.psu.edu/general-resources/technical-bulletins/

Mainly, it's a matter of figuring out how to divert water off your roadbed.

Some years ago, a number of guys built adjustable guide wheels for their rear blades to help them achieve a crown and more evenly grade their roads, but that doesn't seem as popular as they once appeared to be.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hopefully between the LPGS and the rear blade I ordered, I can get good results with a bit of practice.

Even with the rear gauge wheel addition, I still think that you should get the skid shoes. They help prevent gouging and after all, that gauge wheel is only in the center.
And again, learn how to use the draft control feature. Read the owner's manual and fully understand how to actually set the draft control feature. It will make the grading so much easier and better.