What is correct way to hook transport straps?

tcartwri · Aug 7, 2015

The other thing you should be aware of, is that binder straps will stretch about 5% the first time you use them. That's enough on a 4' run to have the straps flapping in the breeze like a skipping rope.... Therefore you always stop five minutes into your drive and re-tighten everything. And then again every time you stop.

sixdogs · Aug 7, 2015

So I come away from this thinking that it's best to wrap the straps or chain under or over something and then hook and tighten. Then again, it's OK to just hook something if you make sure everything stays tight and within rating limits. That's my take.

oldballs · Aug 7, 2015

That's my take also. And like others have noted, I'd go with all chains/binders on those heavier tractors.
Cheers,
Mike

QRTRHRS · Aug 7, 2015

Buy straps with a "J" hook. Drop the hook into a stake pocket and bring it back up on the outside of the pocket. Set the "J" hook in the pocket. You need to make sure there are no rough surfaces on your pockets or protect them with some kind of material. Fire hose may not be an option but there are leather sleeves available to protect webbing.

If you have no options to set your hooks so they would release in the event of slackage then use some bungees. Hook the bungee onto the strap hook then hook the other end to something on the tractor or whatever you are hauling. This is the ideal option for those straps with the formed round stock hooks.

You can also buy straps with short lengths of chain with hooks on one end. More likely found in the larger widths, the set up would be the almost the same, drop the hook into the pocket then up the side of the pocket within the rub rail but hanging on the pocket.

By the way, unless I missed where DOT changed the rules, you can set hooks on the rub rails if needed. Your first choice should be through the pocket though. When I hauled pole barns, I sometimes would have the wood, the steel, the windows and the trim and any other accessories on the same load. The load would be trussed up like a chicken ready to roast but I never had a hassle even when going through a level one. And, I never ruined a piece of steel by overtightening. Oh' yeah, the windows would be tucked in some place and secured with some rope because straps will crush them.

sixdogs · Aug 7, 2015

The way I hook a tractor up is with one J hook strap on each corner. Rather than going from stake pocket to stake pocket, I will, for example, go from the drawbar to the corner pocket on each side for the rear. For the front I may go from the weight bracket to the D ring on each side. I have the 10,000 lb straps and tighten them as tight as I can and then re-check. There is nothing to rub this way and so far so good. Does this sound OK?

QRTRHRS · Aug 7, 2015

sixdogs said:
The way I hook a tractor up is with one J hook strap on each corner. Rather than going from stake pocket to stake pocket, I will, for example, go from the drawbar to the corner pocket on each side for the rear. For the front I may go from the weight bracket to the D ring on each side. I have the 10,000 lb straps and tighten them as tight as I can and then re-check. There is nothing to rub this way and so far so good. Does this sound OK?

If I understand you correctly, you are tensioning your straps away from the tractor both front and rear? That's how I would do it. I prefer to cross tie my tiedowns as well. In other words, from the right side of the tractor to the left side of the trailer. More apt to resist the spring effect on a car as opposed to a tractor, it's just what I do. Tieing each corner without crossing is okay though if that gives you a better clearence for your tiedowns.

One of the issues with J hooks is that when you angle them from the stake pocket, the webbing bunches up towards one side of the slot on the J hook and can wear a bit uneven.

sixdogs · Aug 8, 2015

QRTRHRS said:
If I understand you correctly, you are tensioning your straps away from the tractor both front and rear? That's how I would do it. I prefer to cross tie my tiedowns as well. In other words, from the right side of the tractor to the left side of the trailer. More apt to resist the spring effect on a car as opposed to a tractor, it's just what I do. Tieing each corner without crossing is okay though if that gives you a better clearence for your tiedowns.

One of the issues with J hooks is that when you angle them from the stake pocket, the webbing bunches up towards one side of the slot on the J hook and can wear a bit uneven.

Yes, that's the way I tie down. The straps don't hit anything this way and I can really snug them down.

I don't let them wear, and if they do they get replaced. I have some old commercial straps that are super heavy duty and don't seem to wear to any degree that I can see.

clemsonfor · Aug 11, 2015

I use 2 straps on my yanmar. i use one through the front weight bracket/bumper and to the front corners and hook the 10,000# strap to the stake pockets and the rear goes through both rims to the back stake pockets or the edge of the trailer. And yes the straps so streach. I need to get some new straps as some of mine are chaffed. And will put them on like just strapping down the bush hog duty or securing the box blade to the deck or something or ATV on the trailer, something way lighter.

And i am in the camp if it loosens the only thing fancy hooking or tying the slack around it will do is keep it from dragging the road. If its loose enough to fall out its not securing anything even if the hook is still attached?