What is HST?

KAB · Feb 2, 2005

Seeing what you are doing, I bought a Kioti CK20 HST to do just about the same thing. I went with HST since I wanted a "live" pto for brush work. The HST allowed me to be able to back into the heavy brush, stop to allow the BH (and rpm) to regain momentum, then continue. (I might be wrong but the dealers that I talked to about gear drive did not think this would be possible.) I used a 5' BH which was not a probelm for grasses but did take some time in the brush. Slow and easy is the way to do it.

Others here might say to go larger but it is amazing what a 21hp cut will go through. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Welcome to TBN and good luck.

Kurt

DocHeb · Feb 2, 2005

You are correct. Both Gear and HST tractors have multiple ranges to operate within, usually more with Gear than HST. As stated, "within a certain operating range."

cag · Feb 2, 2005

This could be of help. union farm equipment-tips

Freds · Feb 2, 2005

One of my main reasons for going back with an HST on my second tractor was plowing snow. I can do quite a bit of forward-reverse when cleaning up and since I use a rear blade I am twisted in the seat. Operating a clutch would not be comfortable without rearranging myself. Didn't see plowing snow in your needs though, Sal. Maybe you are in a snowfree climate? If you are going to be digging any fenceposts and "bumping" the tractor from forward to reverse to plumb up the auger bit, then HST has my vote for the same reason. It just doesn't seem like pushing in on a clutch and shifting directions would be easy half twisted around in the seat, but I'm sure some are used to it.

I test drove both and the HST seemed easier to maneuver in tight situations without having to feather/slip the clutch. Like when just wanting to move a few inches closer to something. If you want to get a little closer to something with a gear drive you have to be prepeared to use the brake also. Just pushing the clutch back in might continue your travel. With an HST it seems like letting off on the pedal stops you and if it doesn't, your foot is right there to quickly hit the other direction.

BB_TX · Feb 2, 2005

but the dealers that I talked to about gear drive did not think this would be possible 
I don't really understand the dealers reasoning for this. I have a gear tractor and almost always back my rotary cutter into the heavy brush. If the brush is so heavy it starts to lug down the tractor, I just stop until the rpms come back up. I don't like the heavy stuff dragging underneath the tractor.

Bob_Skurka · Feb 2, 2005

Incidentally, as a female, I am a "girly" type! Well, maybe not *too* girly since I will be the primary driver of this tractor, and probably the primary "fixer" of it as well! 

Sal as probably the least mechanically inclined (but I've been learning for the past 10 years) let me say that after reading your reply post, I'd strongly recommend the HST. They basically don't break. All the technical talk about CVTs and the comparisions to car transmissions and all that stuff basically is technobabble when it comes time for you to put your foot down and drive. With an HST you can simply push on a pedal and the tractor will go. You're not climbing steep hills and you're not trying to lift a mountain, so most of your work will probably be done in one range and the only thing you will have to remember to do is the routine maintainence.

The B7510 is a nice tractor. Buy, borrow or rent a landscape rake to help clean up debris in the field. It will get most of the stuff. I find it most effective to drag the field in straight lines and then drag again across those lines. Unless there is stuff that is 1/2 buried, the rake should pull out the debris.

If mowing is going to be the vast majority of your tasks, you'll probably be more comfortable with a MMM (mid mount mower). Just make sure you ask the dealer to teach you how to "pin it up" for when you use anything on the 3pt hitch behind the tractor. Most MMM will go down when the rear implement goes down and come up when the rear implement comes up. So when you lower the landscape rake to drag the field you don't want the MMM to be down, hence you'll need to "pin it up" It usually involves raising the deck and slipping a couple of pins or clips into a couple of holes where the deck and the bottom of the tractor meet. Then you can drag the field with your rake and the deck will stay up so it doesn't get hit by any of the debris you are trying to clear out.

And by the way, the lovely Mrs_Bob picked out a Cub Cadet because the colors compliment her summer wardrobe, so don't be shy about coming around and asking for help or for that matter, showing us guys up from time to time with your accomplishments.

rockyridgefarm · Feb 2, 2005

You are getting good advice!

Bob's suggestion of a mid mount mower is great. But if your field is pretty rough, you might want to get it in shape first with a brush hog (rotary cutter) They are NOT finish cutters but can leave it looking pretty good, yet not get destroyed by rocks and brush.

My wife grew up in a tractor dealership, and loves manual transmissions. But, once we tried an HST, she is sold on it. Our girls use it and are very confident driving it, as well.

Bob_Skurka · Feb 2, 2005

Mike, I thought of the rotary cutter thing too. But I figured that the rake would probably smooth the ground as well as pick up debris. I'm making the wild assumption that we are talking about mostly grasses, clovers and weeds in that field. If there is a bunch of woody stocked shrubs, then you are absolutely correct that the first pass (after raking) needs to be a rotary cutter to knock it down and cut it up. I should have been more clear.

CurtC · Feb 2, 2005

( One of my main reasons for going back with an HST on my second tractor was plowing snow. I can do quite a bit of forward-reverse when cleaning up and since I use a rear blade I am twisted in the seat.)

I really like the Deere power reverser's for plowing snow, I did a bunch of it this winter and it's handy as heck, flip a lever and it does the rest, so I can concentrate on steering and operating the blade/loader.

KAB · Feb 2, 2005

( but the dealers that I talked to about gear drive did not think this would be possible
I don't really understand the dealers reasoning for this. I have a gear tractor and almost always back my rotary cutter into the heavy brush. If the brush is so heavy it starts to lug down the tractor, I just stop until the rpms come back up. I don't like the heavy stuff dragging underneath the tractor. )

I was looking for a CUT that I could back into tight areas with the mower still engaged. (Live PTO?) In the smaller, gear driven CUT's when you press the clutch in, the PTO stops.

Before I purchased I read a lot of post here and it had been suggested that before engaging the rear PTO, the RPM should be reduced. Using this as a basis for one of my requirements I wanted in a CUT that I could easily work into tight areas while using a BH or RFM without needing to consistantly reduce engine RPM, re-engage the clutch, then resume RPM.

If I mis-understood what was being said then - Sorry. For what I was looking at clutch in = PTO off. Most dealers indicated that if I went larger then clutch part way in <> PTO off. (<> - does not equal). This was a large part of my decision to go with HST.

Hope this helps clarify my prior statement. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Kurt