What is needed hydraulically for a grapple?

[IslandTractor]

Each. I got quoted $1400 for a dual-remote kit (non-installed) for my L4200 from the dealer.

I hope they at least throw in a reach around to go with that "deal".

 

[kattywumpus]

Great picture dstig1 & srs. I'm starting to gather the items needed to run my grapple hydraulic and your pictures help me decide now to plumb the front couplers. Initially I'm going to use my tractor rear remotes. My question is are there any recommended electric over hydraulic valves? If I can figure out what value to use on my DK40SE I believe I setup a electric hydraulic grapple thumb controller for less then a kit.

 

[dstig1]

I got my valve and wiring harness from Fasse (Farm Equipment Solutions | Fasse Valves) I did need to modify the wiring harness as it did nto reach to the places I wanted it to for how I wanted to connect it. But the switch is a nice weather proof rubber covered thing that mounts nicely on the joystick with a couple small zip ties. They were really very helpful, especially for such a small order (to them).

You can see the black rubber switch on the joystick, if you look closely. It sort of looks like a gray blob just below the knob in the pic, with the wire running down the joystick shaft and through the boot.

Oh yeah - it took me 2-3 good days to get everything connected up including trips to Metalsupermarkets, the hydraulic shop (twice), hardware store, marking/drilling/cutting and just putzing around with how I wanted to do everything. Don't plan to bang this out in an afternoon unless you are very experienced in this type of thing.

 

[IslandTractor]

My question is are there any recommended electric over hydraulic valves?

WRLong has one that quite a few TBNers have installed. Never heard a complaint but it is a tad pricy as you must go through a dealer.

 

[tr11439]

Once she realized how much time the grapple saves, my wife started to not mind the large price tag.

 

[kennyd]

Great picture dstig1 & srs. I'm starting to gather the items needed to run my grapple hydraulic and your pictures help me decide now to plumb the front couplers. Initially I'm going to use my tractor rear remotes. My question is are there any recommended electric over hydraulic valves? If I can figure out what value to use on my DK40SE I believe I setup a electric hydraulic grapple thumb controller for less then a kit.

For a "kit", WR Long as already suggested. For just the Diverter Valve so you can source all the other stuff yourself look at these from the Surplus Center:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&qty=1&item=9-5117a
Or
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

 

[teg]

Hope this helps

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: I'm planning on the same location (either above or below). I was going to plumb it in with fittings vs. connecting it with hoses.

If surpuss center sent my package within a reasonable amount of time, I would have installed it last week I bolted on a piece of 2" angle that I was going to weld on for the bracket but wanted to mount the spools first...

 

[tr11439]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: I'm planning on the same location (either above or below). I was going to plumb it in with fittings vs. connecting it with hoses.

If surpuss center sent my package within a reasonable amount of time, I would have installed it last week I bolted on a piece of 2" angle that I was going to weld on for the bracket but wanted to mount the spools first...

I put quick connects on the valve also. Just in case I want to take the loader off for some reason I can leave my grapple hoses connected to the loader. And all of mine is bolt on. The two bolts on the bottom of the factory bracket are long enough for another 1/8" steel plate. Then I got a longer bolt that holds the plastic cover and ran it through my bracket and back into the cover so it could keep the lever end from flopping around. Just a little stouter in my opinion. Works great!!!

 

[IslandTractor]

I did the same thing with my first tractor and had it set up to split when the loader came off. I would not recommend that for most people though as I never took the loader off (most of us don't) and therefore it was just extra expense. It also means you have a lump of four bulky QCs dangling at the base of the FEL mounting post. If I were to do it again I'd just run a single length of 1/4 or 3/8 hose from rear remote all the way to the torque tube. It would not tale long at all to remove the lines from the rear and leave them on the loader if you ever do take the FEL off. Snip a few zip ties under the tractor and you are done.

 

[tr11439]

I did the same thing with my first tractor and had it set up to split when the loader came off. I would not recommend that for most people though as I never took the loader off (most of us don't) and therefore it was just extra expense. It also means you have a lump of four bulky QCs dangling at the base of the FEL mounting post. If I were to do it again I'd just run a single length of 1/4 or 3/8 hose from rear remote all the way to the torque tube. It would not tale long at all to remove the lines from the rear and leave them on the loader if you ever do take the FEL off. Snip a few zip ties under the tractor and you are done.

I didn't mind the cost. A buddy I went to school with runs the local hydraulic shop. Had hoses made to length, couplers and fittings at cost.

 

[IslandTractor]

I didn't mind the cost. A buddy I went to school with runs the local hydraulic shop. Had hoses made to length, couplers and fittings at cost.

Understood. It is still relatively clunky compared to plain single piece hose though and offers four, eight or more additional places for leaks. My bottom line is that because I simply zip tied the lines under the operator station, it would be trivial to snip those and just leave the whole kit in one piece with the FEL. Otherwise you have twice as many caps etc to fool around with each time you remove the FEL. You also need to secure the QCs on the FEL mount mast to keep them from banging around or getting snagged.

Don't get me wrong, the dual hose multiple connector system works fine. That is actually what I used. I just wouldn't do it again.

 

[caddison]

I got my valve and wiring harness from Fasse (Farm Equipment Solutions | Fasse Valves) I did need to modify the wiring harness as it did nto reach to the places I wanted it to for how I wanted to connect it. But the switch is a nice weather proof rubber covered thing that mounts nicely on the joystick with a couple small zip ties. They were really very helpful, especially for such a small order (to them).

You can see the black rubber switch on the joystick, if you look closely. It sort of looks like a gray blob just below the knob in the pic, with the wire running down the joystick shaft and through the boot.

Oh yeah - it took me 2-3 good days to get everything connected up including trips to Metalsupermarkets, the hydraulic shop (twice), hardware store, marking/drilling/cutting and just putzing around with how I wanted to do everything. Don't plan to bang this out in an afternoon unless you are very experienced in this type of thing.

Dave.... Here are some pictures of the valve.

 

[teg]

I'm planning on the same location... I was going to plumb it in with fittings vs. connecting it with hoses... I bolted on a piece of 2" angle that I was going to weld on for the bracket.

I removed the 2" angle and went with a flat plate above the FEL... I ended up using hose to plumb it in. For the whole write up: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7948-instructions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html

 

[mkane09]

When I bought my MX4700, I had Brady (Barlow) order a 56 inch WRLong grapple, electric/hydraulic valve, and install it all. $1695. My grapple switch sits on top of the FEL control lever. Works great!

mkane09