What is the best price available for a fence post 8 foot above ground

[jinman]

Remember, this is not a fence to keep cattle out of the garden nor horses. It's basically a lightweight barrier to convince deer not to jump over. I would use 8' t-posts and add a section of 1" schedule 40 PVC sticking up at the top for my electrical wire above 7' netting (use clamps or u-bolts to attach the PVC. If deer are the primary concern, I can't see them jumping over that.

 

[nybirdman]

The won't jump over if they can't see the other side..........use a five ft. sight barrier.

 

[pacerron]

Remember, this is not a fence to keep cattle out of the garden nor horses. It's basically a lightweight barrier to convince deer not to jump over. I would use 8' t-posts and add a section of 1" schedule 40 PVC sticking up at the top for my electrical wire above 7' netting (use clamps or u-bolts to attach the PVC. If deer are the primary concern, I can't see them jumping over that.

I have used the first part of Jinman's idea for 3 years now and it is great. T posts 20 feet apart with the 7' high deer net attached with used baler plastic twine. We leave the posts in place since there is room to plow between them. The netting is about $20 for 110 ft roll. It probably weighs less than 2 pounds. We roll it up on a piece of PVC in the fall that is our gate end which is strapped to a corner T-post with 3 velcro strips. That gives us a 20 foot access to the garden in seconds during the summer. The stuff is black and hard to see so when the deer put their nose against it, it scares them away. We have 17-20 deer here that used to destroy the garden for the past 17 years before the simple net fence. We have tried all kinds of stuff over the years but this is the only thing that has worked for more than a few months.
We have now layed a piece of it over our grapes and it has stopped them from eating them off as well.

I am not sure of Jim's reasoning of putting an additional electric wire at the 8 foot level. It sure is not going to shock them while they are in the air We tried thin electric wire at 3 levels around our orchard one year on fiberglass stakes. They didn't bother jumping it; they just plowed through. On the 5 wire high tensile electrified fence around our pasture they don't bother jumping over it; but get down and crawl under the bottom wire. The bottom wire is not hot so the animals will eat the weeds along the wire.

 

[EddieWalker]

ACQ Treated Lumber can be used in above ground, below ground and fresh water immersion applications. This allows the product to be used in residential, commercial, and industrial projects. Three levels of ACQ Treatment are produced:

0.25 for above ground use

0.40 for ground contact, fresh water applications

0.60 for permanent wood foundations, as well as poles for barn applications.

Its not simply 'faster' but is better as it considerably reduces that 'warping and bending' you were talking about.

I dont use 4x4's for decks, sunrooms, add-ons etc.. I use 3 2x4's (sometimes 2, depends). .40 works for decks and whatnot if your cheap and coat the wood.. .60 should be used for the piers though.

The trick is finding treated 2x4's or 2x6's with a .40 rating. Good luck on that!!!! :thumbsup:

Eddie

 

[QRTRHRS]

Why use ACQ for a deer fence? Is that not an agricultural application? CCA for ag use is still available I believe? ACQ is supposedly harder on fastening devices. Would it not work on the fence wire?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

When we were building our deer pens we would go to all the lumber yards and buy their bent and twisted 4x4's. We didn't care if they curved some as we placed them accordingly and what difference does it make if they twist if your considering a round post as well. Anyway, we could usually buy them for half price as they are not very marketable for residential construction projects like that. Summer time is the best time to do it as the sun causes them to twist and curve. So make the trip to the local lumber yards that store their pressure treated lumber outside and start scrounging. Also, we bought 12' and 16' 4x4's and just cut off the extra 4'. The price was still a lot cheaper that way.

Now if your wanting to have this somewhere that is going to be seen buy neighbors or where you want it to look all nice and pretty then you will be better off going with a milled round post used on farms. You may have to custom order the lengths but a farm supply store should be able to help you out there. The price will be quite expensive though. Metal will work as well but I've never been a big fan of the thin metal post look. Now if your using 4" round steel posts that will look a little nicer but again will be quite expensive.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

All I can say is you're lucky.

That can be a matter of opinion. Locust is a great wood for posts but it can be a huge hassle dealing with it. It is extremely heavy, has thorns and you really should remove the bark before sticking it in the ground. We used locust for some of our pens and the ones that were split or where we removed the bark are doing fine. The ones that have bark on them rot off at ground level and need replacing after 15 years.

 

[randy41]

15 years from a free post works for me.

 

[jinman]

I am not sure of Jim's reasoning of putting an additional electric wire at the 8 foot level. It sure is not going to shock them while they are in the air

Exactly! :laughing: I put that in for the group who says to put an electrical wire at the top and bottom. If you HAVE to HAVE an electrical wire, you might as well make it easy on yourself and inexpensive. Maybe it will keep giraffes out of your garden. Now, if you run a wire and then lace foil down through your deer netting with a little PB on it, you might get some takers. At least the wire at the top would be away from weeds and grass. I bought a fence charger and it's still in the box. I've never needed it with the netting.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

15 years from a free post works for me.

Not saying it didn't, just that if you go that route you should strip the bark and get twice the life out of your work. You know how much fun it is handling 12' long fresh cut locust. Free or not messing with them is a lot of work. I cut locust for use in my vineyards. I don't cut enough for everything I need but use the larger posts for end posts and the thinner tops as line posts. I cut them then leave them lay in a damp area for a while till the bark turns slimy and releases from the wood. Then it is easier to strip it but is a smelly mess. The posts last easily 30-40 years this way.