What is the trick to smooth shifting?

flusher · Apr 21, 2015

Had similar experience with my 2008 Mahindra 5525 that has partially synchronized gears (8F/2R). Just double clutched to get the gears synchronized and then eased the tranny into gear. Even after 6 years with that tractor I still ground the gears occasionally. Just the nature of the beast.

Good luck.

jimnor46 · Apr 21, 2015

New member here and the OP's question is exactly why I joined this site. I have a 4025 also, 3 hrs. of time on it so you can see it's brand new. I'm having the same difficulty with the grinding. I'm an old time drag racer and grinding gears drives me crazy. I've tried everything that everyone has mentioned to try to smooth shift and it's just not working. About once out of every 10 gear shifts I'll actually get a smooth shift. I've tried powering down, letting idle for a few seconds and everything else I could think of. I'm thinking that maybe the people that build Mahindra's don't know what synchronizers are for. Been many years since I've driven a tractor, about 50, and that was an old Farmall B. I don't remember the grinding going on every time I changed gears with that old timer.
Anyway, glad to see that I'm not the only one having the problem. Looking forward to being a member of this site. Already picked up some good info.
Y'all have a good day...

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Sysop · Apr 21, 2015

Welcome to TBN!

Being a drag racer by nature I think you're likely just too used to fast shifts

Patience with the old school gears was always one of my problems on other tractors and is one of several reasons I went HST.

tcartwri · Apr 21, 2015

Try going up into reverse and then into your desired gear. Also, no one confirmed whether there is a clutch brake or not.

SimpleSimon · Apr 21, 2015

I know on my 4025, it took only a little while to get the hang of it- after it got broke in a little bit (or maybe it was me getting broke in), it was no problem. Still grind them a little once in a while, but that's just the tractor keeping me straight. I do like the simplicity of geared contraptions.
-Simon

arrow · Apr 24, 2015

I had the same problem for years never thinking to take up the clutch adjustment on a brand new tractor. Did that and the grinding disappeared.

Navasot · Apr 29, 2015

Let it shift itself... you don't have to double clutch to shift without grinding... not gona hurt anything if it does either way

Slickheadhunter · May 3, 2015

When I first got my 4025 I had a couple gear shift grinds but happened only when I didn't come to a complete stop. Once I stopped that it shifts smoothly without grinding, I would look at the clutch adjustment.

gladehound · Jun 9, 2015

I started reading this thread after finding that when working the tractor several hours on a hot day it took a full 4 seconds for my gears to spin down before I could select another gear without any grinding. However, what I was doing was putting in the clutch and shifting to neutral before the tractor stopped and then waiting for it to stop before selecting the new gear. But what if you put the clutch in and let the tractor roll to a stop (using brakes or not) before taking it out of gear. In this case, the gears stay connected to the rear wheels until you are stopped so the instant the tractor stops the gears stop too. This should allow shifting as soon as you stop without waiting... of course this is my theory based on my understanding of my transmission. I have to go home and test it at some point.

Slickheadhunter · Jun 9, 2015

burzynsr said:
If i have a PTO attachment running I only depress to the halfway point. With nothing attached I just push it to the floor. A little practice will get you used to the positions. As far as clutch wear by depressing all the way unless you have a load/attachment running you will really only be putting wear on the throw out bearings, just keep them greased as per the manual and you will be good to go. By the way, if you have an attachment running like a tiller or something and you do depress it all the way it will stop immediatly and be under full load when you release it, that will put wear on the clutch and impliment. Good luck.

Where's the grease fitting for the throw out bearing located? Is it on the outside or do you have to remove a plate somewhere?