what mulching equipment should I buy?

   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #1  

satxcedar

New member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Messages
18
Hello to all, I just found this site and registered yesterday. Glad I found it! Alot of usefull info.

I am starting a mulching land clearing business in the near future. I thought I had figured out what equipment I was going to purchase but after reading some of the posts on this site I may I need to weigh my options.
I was going to get a bobcat s-300 and a Tushogg mulching head. I think the Tushogg would be good because my area has a good amount of rocks and cedar. I would rather have a head that mulches finer but it would limit the number of jobs I could get due to possible rocky terrain. I dont want added expense of replacing teeth. I am very interseted in the ASV RC100 after reading some of the posts. My main concern with the ASV is the location of the nearest ASV dealer. If I need to get it serviced I will have to drive at least two hours to the closest dealer. As far as tow vehicle, I have a 2001 ford f-250. I am going to install some rear air bags. I still need to buy a trailer but am waiting to see what equipment I decide to purchase. Any advice or imput would greatly be appreciated. Thanks!
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #2  
WELL WELL I have all the equipment you need & ready to let'er go, just PM me & we'll talk!!!
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
What equipment do you have?
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #4  
Too much typeing for tonight. But where are you located? I think from your sig Tx and if so we have demo's coming your way and that would be a better learning opportunity to see what equipment can do what.
There are better performing option than you are currently considering. Carrier and head.
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #5  
Looks like you are in my area. I am thinking of selling my s330 set up for mulching. I'm looking at a T320 to compliment my excavator. I have another wheeled machine and thought a track machine would help me work in the creek bottoms in the hill country. Cedar and rocks are my specialty..

I'm not too far from Bandera. I ran a tushhogg for 3 years and sold it and got another mulcher.
I also ran a CAT 272c with cat mulcher before selling it for the s330. I ran 2 s300 K series machines before that so I have some seat time mulching in the hill country.
check out. http://www.brushchipping.com

If we aren't competing head to head, I may be able to help you out. :D
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #6  
Too much typeing for tonight. But where are you located? I think from your sig Tx and if so we have demo's coming your way and that would be a better learning opportunity to see what equipment can do what.
There are better performing option than you are currently considering. Carrier and head.

what about the rocks in this area? I busted a carbide tooth last thursday on the limestone. Lots of rocks in the hill country. I'd love to have your chipper head but how would the blades hold up?
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #7  
Hello, I too am new to this site. I have just started to look in to cutting cedars here in Oklahoma. Need to see what the market is here and if I can make any money. Just started looking at the different equipment offered and
have not decided on sawing or mulching yet. Any advice on getting started and what would be the best way to go mulching or using a saw? Also new to writing so if this is not the right place help me out. LOL

Fagan 13
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #8  
Okay, I think this hijack is relevant to mulching too.

I personally don't have any experience with the machine mounted saws but I have used a tree shear for about 12 years.
You have to have a way to dispose of the brush. I use a chipper and the mulcher when shear. I occasionally burn but don't like burning. To burn, I bought a 500 gallon sprayer to help with safety.

I have seen the marshall saw video and it looks interesting but bulky. Bobcat makes a saw and I saw another one online that looked heavy duty. If you don't have rocks, the high speed saw would certainly cut quick and double as a stump nipper but it may not be as versatile if you can't move brush out of your way as you cut it. The marshall saw allows you to move trees by pinching it but again, it's awfully bulky in my opinion.

I would look into these things:

Is there a market fairly close to you?
Who is on top of that market now and what do they use/charge?
How much equipment can you afford without getting sidled with loads of debt (things are slow now and having debt is scary)
Cost of insurance to cover you and protect your family and your customer's investment
Is there a dealer for the type of machine you are interested in that can meet your needs when you have a problem?
Do you need to be set up with sales tax and or license?
Can you afford to work for peanuts while you learn your skill? Word of mouth starts with your neighbors, friends, family, etc.,
What type of budget can you afford for initial advertising?
Is there anyone you can learn from and build a strategic relationship that benefits both of you? You may even find a potential competitor that needs help or is willing to work with you and trade referrals.

These are just a few questions. Search the forums for other threads where owner/operators have put together a "get started" list. Good luck!
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #9  
Okay Yellow. I am glad you asked. This is where an excavator can really shine. When using an excavator you mulch most of the tree standing, since cedar's are shorter than most you could really deal with a large portion of the tree without ever touching the ground. This serves two purposes. One the tree can't go anywhere, you can concentrate the hp straight down on the tree. Second when the limbs fall to the ground they will fall onto a bed of mulch from the above mulching. Now what is left is light branches that when the blades engage them they will easily be pulled into the head. The only time the head would touch the ground is when your leveling the stump, and even then with the buildup of the stump ground contact will be minimal.
Now that was the ideal situation. If our blades to contact rocks they will give off the evident white cloud of smoke and you can move. Second when our blades hit rocks they usually dent or a small piece will be nicked out. Both can be fixed with usually sharpening or at worse a second sharpening. And if you break one you change that blade. Either 35.oo or 50.00 bucks. For rocky conditions I recommend the softer blades (35.00) ones.
Now for a skid steer you can apply some of the same tackticks. Mulch as much of the tree standing as possible and pick your grinding spot around the tree. Also our heads will pick the material up off the ground and limit ground contact.
Lastly if I'm not mistaken lime stone is soft and flakely right? I think I have actually mulched it before.

Also Yellow I have seen a Marshall tree saw run and I would have rathered mulched it. Very big and just weird. I like rotating tree sheers like a scissor setup. Also to consider a real tree saw runs a dedicated 55 gpm pump with boost. Food for thought.
 
   / what mulching equipment should I buy? #10  
Okay Yellow. I am glad you asked. This is where an excavator can really shine. When using an excavator you mulch most of the tree standing, since cedar's are shorter than most you could really deal with a large portion of the tree without ever touching the ground. This serves two purposes. One the tree can't go anywhere, you can concentrate the hp straight down on the tree. Second when the limbs fall to the ground they will fall onto a bed of mulch from the above mulching. Now what is left is light branches that when the blades engage them they will easily be pulled into the head. The only time the head would touch the ground is when your leveling the stump, and even then with the buildup of the stump ground contact will be minimal.
Now that was the ideal situation. If our blades to contact rocks they will give off the evident white cloud of smoke and you can move. Second when our blades hit rocks they usually dent or a small piece will be nicked out. Both can be fixed with usually sharpening or at worse a second sharpening. And if you break one you change that blade. Either 35.oo or 50.00 bucks. For rocky conditions I recommend the softer blades (35.00) ones.
Now for a skid steer you can apply some of the same tackticks. Mulch as much of the tree standing as possible and pick your grinding spot around the tree. Also our heads will pick the material up off the ground and limit ground contact.
Lastly if I'm not mistaken lime stone is soft and flakely right? I think I have actually mulched it before.

Also Yellow I have seen a Marshall tree saw run and I would have rathered mulched it. Very big and just weird. I like rotating tree sheers like a scissor setup. Also to consider a real tree saw runs a dedicated 55 gpm pump with boost. Food for thought.


Robbie, I have been using your technique on taller, straight cedars but the bushy ones are a challenge to keep the limbs from going everywhere when using a skid. I agree..but can only dream of a large excavator mulcher. Right now I'm paying off a bobcat 335 mini ex. I'd like to get a small mulcher for it some day. Too bad the small ones aren't self-powered. That would be a dream for the smaller, tighter jobs as the lift capacity is pretty good.

I think everything is easier in an excavator after owning one for a few months.

I really like your style mowers. I just wish there was a trap door. I'm always concerned about debris ejecting. I also like the idea of touching up the blades without having to replace. As you know, if you hit carbide on something hard..it's broke, chipped, or chunked out so that the rotor can wobble. Also, the carbide gets blunt after a while.

Have you ever looked into cryo-treating the knives? I've thought about that for my chipper knives in my vermeer but didn't know if they would become brittle to impact.
 

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