Posthole Digger What PTO HP am i looking for?

[beppington]

Man, it's a shame you don't live closer, have I got a deal for you.:laughing:

Hey now, I said I've been enjoying putting up MY new fence! :laughing:

 

[sandman2234]

Doing somebody else's fence is never as rewarding, though usually doesn't hurt the bank account nearly as much!!
David from jax

 

[TripleR]

Hey now, I said I've been enjoying putting up MY new fence! :laughing:

Hey, just trying to share the joy.:laughing:

We got rid of all of our livestock and the only fences we have now are decorative. Well, we do have some property fences, but we can't get to most of it and they are and have been grown up since before we bought our property, so we aren't going to fool with them as they are in woods and some you can't really even get to anymore. In the hills, erosion can sometimes leave you with a fence suspended in mid air with posts hanging from it.

 

[luckyme2010]

Thanks everyone for the input. Really.

Dont know where to Start. Maybe Jeonz's idea of getting Professionals to do it could save me alot of time and headache. But having said that, where's the fun in that... I suppose i am asking a retorical question here. Why buy a Tractor if it's not going to do the work you need (would like) it to do?
I have lots of time and there is no TV at the property. So i gotta be doing something right..

Tractor will be doing 90% mowing
We have 380ft of river front on one side and a mountain bordering another side, so in fact there are only two sides to be fenced off.
I have several stumps that i would like to clear out (over time), just chip away at them.
I would like to move River rock up on to the property for a fireplace and some wall/dam construction (river is low bank and can overrun up near the house)
I would like to grab timber that has floated down river and rake and clean up flood area every summer
Leveling Ground and upkeep on driveway

I am kinda leaning towards the 2620 for some reason. I think the 3720 maybe to much machine somehow, overkill for the 5 acres.
Maybe i should look for something in the Middle the 30/35HP range.
I am also wondering what/why i would go Hydraulic insted of PTO driven? And, (not done yet) How do you like your Mahindra Tractor, i have also been looking into those..?
Thanks again everyone
Ajwren

i gotta say i love my mahindra but thats because thats what ive used for the past 10 years or so not to many bells and whistles as other tractors but being and electrcian by trade i can tell you things with digital screens dont like moisture and dirt but its all about what your comfortable driving and you feel safe on thats one reason i like the mahindra they have more metal than plastic not saying some of them dont have plastic because they do they are heavier built have a higher lift capacity go to mahindrausa.com and you can select a tractor and it has comparisons to other tractors pretty informative

 

[foggy1111]

I am a big believer in looking at the implements you want to operate. So....do you want 4 foot, 5 or 6 foot stuff? Big basic question.

Usually the 4 footers are for Sub CUT's and are of special (smaller) sized frames and a limited number of used machines are out there. The SCUT's are often in a special class when it comes to implement fit...and the implements run a bit more in some cases. The five foot implements are the most plentiful and fit "normal" CUT frame sizes and because they are so popular are widely available, mass produced and low cost. You can also find LOTS of used stuff here. (you can tell I am biased to 5 foot stuff.)

Six foot implements cost a bit more....but you can cover a lot of ground with em. Not a bad choice if you have big work to do. Moderate amounts of used stuff available. Bigger tractors and HP requirements for sixers and over.

HP requirements are about 5 PTO HP per foot of implement. A few extra HP doesn't hurt if you do LOTS of PTO work with mowers and tillers etc.

Personally, I like the 30 HP tractor class with 25+ PTO HP to power five foot mowers and tillers. I like the "standard" size implements and the ability to buy, sell or trade implements according to my needs. I like light, nimble tractors that get around in the woods....yet have some grunt to lift and get the job done. I like tractors that are well supported with parts and service in my area....and something easy to trade again if my needs change. I like my 3320 JD...so far. :thumbsup:

A SCUT is good for lawn care....and more IMO. Think of it as a "crossover" ??

OH...and any tractor can run a post hole digger....but the SCUTS take a special size....just so you know.

 

[gwjd]

you mentioned flood clean up you never know what that water is going to leave behind. i think that 4x4 and ground clearance are an issue, you might have to drive in some serious stuff one day, build an emergency levee...

 

[ajwren]

I am a big believer in looking at the implements you want to operate. So....do you want 4 foot, 5 or 6 foot stuff? Big basic question.

Usually the 4 footers are for Sub CUT's and are of special (smaller) sized frames and a limited number of used machines are out there. The SCUT's are often in a special class when it comes to implement fit...and the implements run a bit more in some cases. The five foot implements are the most plentiful and fit "normal" CUT frame sizes and because they are so popular are widely available, mass produced and low cost. You can also find LOTS of used stuff here. (you can tell I am biased to 5 foot stuff.)

Six foot implements cost a bit more....but you can cover a lot of ground with em. Not a bad choice if you have big work to do. Moderate amounts of used stuff available. Bigger tractors and HP requirements for sixers and over.

HP requirements are about 5 PTO HP per foot of implement. A few extra HP doesn't hurt if you do LOTS of PTO work with mowers and tillers etc.

Personally, I like the 30 HP tractor class with 25+ PTO HP to power five foot mowers and tillers. I like the "standard" size implements and the ability to buy, sell or trade implements according to my needs. I like light, nimble tractors that get around in the woods....yet have some grunt to lift and get the job done. I like tractors that are well supported with parts and service in my area....and something easy to trade again if my needs change. I like my 3320 JD...so far. :thumbsup:

A SCUT is good for lawn care....and more IMO. Think of it as a "crossover" ??

OH...and any tractor can run a post hole digger....but the SCUTS take a special size....just so you know.

Thanks again for the reply (everyone). Very useful and informative all mround, especially the PTO HP(per foot) equation that Foggy1111 left us. But having said that, I am not sure exactly how one measeres the "Length" of Implement? I suppose it means the Heigth of the Implement when attached to the 3 Point (out of the ground)? or is it depth into ground that it goes...? a little confused..
Thanks
ajwren

 

[twarr1]

From Iowa State University:

The horsepower needed to pull a certain implement depends on the width of the implement, the ground speed, draft requirement, and soil condition. The general formula for estimating the required horsepower measured at the power take-off (PTO) is:

PTO hp = width (feet) x speed (mph)
x draft (lb./ft.) x soil factor / 375

See the attachment for draft table

 

[Chilly807]

Thanks again for the reply (everyone). Very useful and informative all mround, especially the PTO HP(per foot) equation that Foggy1111 left us. But having said that, I am not sure exactly how one measeres the "Length" of Implement? I suppose it means the Heigth of the Implement when attached to the 3 Point (out of the ground)? or is it depth into ground that it goes...? a little confused..
Thanks
ajwren

He's right on the money for most of us that run 30-35 hp tractors, usually in the compact or what I call "small to medium" farm tractor category. Historically, these were Ford 8 or 9N, Massey 135, IH/Case 385, etc. Today you're looking at New Holland TH30 (I think I have that right) Kubota 2800/3400/3700, Deere 3032 or 3038, etc. There are more for each manufacturer, some with more features, some with less.

The 5 hp/ft rule is primarily for rotary cutters and mowers, it's a fairly consistent and heavy load mowing heavy grass and weeds. Other implements such as a rear blade, box blade etc vary a bit in hp demands depending on what you're doing with them at the time. Your local dealer is one of the best resources as to what each machine is capable of.

I have a 5 foot rotary cutter (bush hog type), a 9 inch post hole auger, a 6 foot back blade, and a 12 inch two bottom plow so far, with other similar sized stuff on the wish list as the opportunity presents itself. You'll get a feel for what your tractor can and can't do once you have it, therefore good advice is critical to getting you in the right tractor to begin with.

Tell your dealer what you want to do with it, and how fast you want to get those jobs done. A good example is mowing a 15 acre field with a rotary cutter. I can tell you from experience that the field I mow of that size takes me 7 hours, give or take a half hour. HP isn't the limiting factor, field roughness is however. I can mow it faster, but I'll need the seat belt to stay on the tractor, and it bounces the living daylights out of everything. Faster ground speed makes for a less than perfect job too, same as running behind a lawn mower.

You could mow the same field with a 4 foot mower behind a B or BX Kubota or a 2305 Deere, or any smaller tractor as well. It would take you longer, maybe 25-30% longer. A larger machine with a six foot mower would take 20-25% less time, and be more comfortable to boot.

So if you have all day, some jobs can be done with a smaller machine, others simply can't depending on the hp or weight requirements.

Talk to your dealer as well as us, if he has the idea you may buy new, he'll tell you what each machine can do. If you arrive at a conclusion as to the machine size you need, where you buy it is your choice. My dealer was a great help, his first question was "Great, glad you're looking at Kubota, now... what do you want to do with it?"

Sean

 

[Agrantina]

I drove the small compact tractors with the same HP as mine but after reading alot and actually driving a L3400 pulling a box blade I understood what weight of a tractor actual means. HP and a light tractor is about the same thing as being under HP on a tractor. But having the correct balance of weight as power is the key when pulling..Yes you can add weight just like you can slow down cutting or have a 4ft cutter.. So the 80/20 rule is correct. Buy a tractor for 80% of what you do and borrow a neighbors tractor that donesn't read TBN and buys one to big

AndyG