What rod is which?
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RobJ
Elite Member
kossetx said:
Cut/grind. About the only way to do it right. Otherwise a butt joint you would have to get at least 3/8" penetration...if you could get at both sides. If you look at the Hobart forum there is a thread of a guy fixing something like a 20t hammer weight, had to cut it in have to repair, then reweld. The rods were something like 1/2" thick, 3' long. Some serious welding.
Soundguy
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I'll guess that you can get some serious penetration on a 1/2" rod... so what do you use that with? 400A ?
Soundguy
Soundguy
RobJ
Elite Member
Soundguy said:
Here is the link with the help from a person at the Hobart forum. So you wanna weld something???
Big Welds 2 - Weld Talk Message Boards
And
Big Welds. - Weld Talk Message Boards
Last edited:
Nomoregears
Member
Being a welder for 25+ years, 10+ on submarines, 5+ on nuclear reactors and being a trainer, I had to chime in here.
A lot of good advice given here and some not so good. If you plan on getting decent welds not gobs, match the right rod with the job. Read up, take a class, find a welder. I have never seen a welder that wouldn't show another person how to weld. I know a certain person who tried to learn on his own only to find out his welding machine was broken. After welding with a properly set up machine he was amazed. It took him 2 years to find out what was wrong.
Many manufactures make AC rods now. The numbers 6011, 7018, 6010 , or 7024 stand for something. the first two numbers stand for the tensile strength the third number stands for the position meaning a #1 would be good in all positions (flat, horizontal , vertical, and overhead). The low hydrogen rods should be kept dry or heated before use or you will introduce impurities that will promote cracking. I won't make generalizations on which rod to use where. Match the rod to the job (Metal type, position, AC or DC, thickness... etc.)
Some sound advice given to me along the way stands out.
1. Always make your next bead better than your last.
2. Your welds are only as good as their preparation.
3. The tip of a welding rod is 11,000 degrees and your skin melts @ 180
degrees.. COVER UP!
For your information, a welder generally uses a 5/32" welding rod to take a test. The theory here is if he can handle a 5/32" rod in any position than he be able to handle anything. Generally the largest width of the bead allowed is 1/2". Anything wider and the bead begins to trap slag.
Even after 25+ years I am still learning the art. It is an art. I could go on with war stories here but my point is learn how to weld correctly. Anyone can stick two pieces of metal together, it takes a welder to do it correctly.
So get out there and practice, don't be embarrassed to stick a few rods but make your next bead better than your last. Good luck.
A lot of good advice given here and some not so good. If you plan on getting decent welds not gobs, match the right rod with the job. Read up, take a class, find a welder. I have never seen a welder that wouldn't show another person how to weld. I know a certain person who tried to learn on his own only to find out his welding machine was broken. After welding with a properly set up machine he was amazed. It took him 2 years to find out what was wrong.
Many manufactures make AC rods now. The numbers 6011, 7018, 6010 , or 7024 stand for something. the first two numbers stand for the tensile strength the third number stands for the position meaning a #1 would be good in all positions (flat, horizontal , vertical, and overhead). The low hydrogen rods should be kept dry or heated before use or you will introduce impurities that will promote cracking. I won't make generalizations on which rod to use where. Match the rod to the job (Metal type, position, AC or DC, thickness... etc.)
Some sound advice given to me along the way stands out.
1. Always make your next bead better than your last.
2. Your welds are only as good as their preparation.
3. The tip of a welding rod is 11,000 degrees and your skin melts @ 180
degrees.. COVER UP!
For your information, a welder generally uses a 5/32" welding rod to take a test. The theory here is if he can handle a 5/32" rod in any position than he be able to handle anything. Generally the largest width of the bead allowed is 1/2". Anything wider and the bead begins to trap slag.
Even after 25+ years I am still learning the art. It is an art. I could go on with war stories here but my point is learn how to weld correctly. Anyone can stick two pieces of metal together, it takes a welder to do it correctly.
So get out there and practice, don't be embarrassed to stick a few rods but make your next bead better than your last. Good luck.
Soundguy
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I went to TSC to pick up a few bits of steel and a couple packs of rods.. I started reading ( uh-oh) the packages. i notice that the regular 7014 lists ac or dc.. then i see another pack that says 7014AC .. and it also lists ac or DC... what gives? why the 7014 and 7014 ac.. if they can both do ac??
Soundguy
Soundguy
RobJ
Elite Member
Soundguy said:
Never had any problems with off the shelf 7014s. 7018 off the shelf were really crappy for me. 7018AC work sweet.
Nomoregears
Member
Soundguy, I know what you mean, I don't buy my rods there. I feel they are over priced in my neck of the woods. There is no "wonder rod" regardless of what the salesman tells you.
I don't keep a lot of rods on hand. I buy my rods from a welding supply house that has a good turn-over of stock.
The rods I do have are stored in containers made out of Waste PVC that keeps them dry.
Incidently, I have seen AC rods run totally different from batch to batch. If you're not happy with one manufacturer, try another. If you have problems running rods sometime, try moving the ground or hook up a secondary ground strap(jumper cables work fine). Most ground cables for welding machines are undersize. If they get hot, increase the size of the ground cable.
I don't keep a lot of rods on hand. I buy my rods from a welding supply house that has a good turn-over of stock.
The rods I do have are stored in containers made out of Waste PVC that keeps them dry.
Incidently, I have seen AC rods run totally different from batch to batch. If you're not happy with one manufacturer, try another. If you have problems running rods sometime, try moving the ground or hook up a secondary ground strap(jumper cables work fine). Most ground cables for welding machines are undersize. If they get hot, increase the size of the ground cable.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Can't argue with any of that advice. I normally don't get my rods from TSC either.. But I needed to pick up some specialty rods for a small project, an tsc had the rods and metal all in one stop.
I also kep my rods in sealed plastic containers that have a good gasket. Still.. I only have a couple pounds of each type that i use, unless i am working on a project, which i then might buy a 5#'er or so. Ditto on the extra ground. Sometimes if i have a complex project I will ground each piece with a jumper cable back to the main piece near the welder ground clamp.. seems to work much better.. especially when i work with my small stick welder.. Big one don't seem to mind as much.
Soundguy
I also kep my rods in sealed plastic containers that have a good gasket. Still.. I only have a couple pounds of each type that i use, unless i am working on a project, which i then might buy a 5#'er or so. Ditto on the extra ground. Sometimes if i have a complex project I will ground each piece with a jumper cable back to the main piece near the welder ground clamp.. seems to work much better.. especially when i work with my small stick welder.. Big one don't seem to mind as much.
Soundguy
Nomoregears said:
OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
I had to post the latest development in the saga.
I "splurged" and got the Harbor Freight Auto Darkening helmet. Now I can weld with 7018. I just burned up two 1/8" sticks on some scrap using about 60 amps.
Go figure that one out.
I "splurged" and got the Harbor Freight Auto Darkening helmet. Now I can weld with 7018. I just burned up two 1/8" sticks on some scrap using about 60 amps.
Go figure that one out.