What Size Air Compressor?
- Thread starter mundamanu
- Start date
- Views: 3468
RobertN
Super Member
Interesting /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The portion about no electrical cord makes sense. Even if you sever an air line, the only damage will be the flailing hose end, unlike getting a nice bite of 120v/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
I will have to check in to that on my next drill purchase.
For portablility, that's fine. 100' of air line is as far as I would go, but mostly I would tend to get the cordless out for drilling outside the garage. I have four, so, there's no shortage. I have 9v Makita, 9v Makita 90 angle, 12v Makita, and 18v DeWalt.
I will have to check in to that on my next drill purchase.
For portablility, that's fine. 100' of air line is as far as I would go, but mostly I would tend to get the cordless out for drilling outside the garage. I have four, so, there's no shortage. I have 9v Makita, 9v Makita 90 angle, 12v Makita, and 18v DeWalt.
RobertN
Super Member
When you get everything together, get plenty of hose. I have two 25' sections, and a 50' one. The two 25' will reach anywhere in the garage and small drive. Most times, I just use a single 25' in the garage; it is easy to handle, doesn't tangle, ect.
The 50' section is clean, and stays that way. I have occasion to use it in the house with a finish nailer.
Either way, I have 100' of hose, which is great. Remember, you want to extend hose, not move the compressor and use a long extension cord(good way to burn up the motor).
The other thing, is to make sure it is easy to drain water from the tank; my old compressor tank rotted out... On the new on, I replaced the hard to reach drain valve with a couple pieces of pipe and a air nozzle. I can touch my toe to the nozzle handle, and blow any moisture out of the tank. I can't find the picture; I posted it 6-8 months ago in another similar conversation...
The 50' section is clean, and stays that way. I have occasion to use it in the house with a finish nailer.
Either way, I have 100' of hose, which is great. Remember, you want to extend hose, not move the compressor and use a long extension cord(good way to burn up the motor).
The other thing, is to make sure it is easy to drain water from the tank; my old compressor tank rotted out... On the new on, I replaced the hard to reach drain valve with a couple pieces of pipe and a air nozzle. I can touch my toe to the nozzle handle, and blow any moisture out of the tank. I can't find the picture; I posted it 6-8 months ago in another similar conversation...
Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When you get everything together, get plenty of hose. )</font>
Good advice, and of course, have quick couplers on everything. I had three 50', one 15', and two 10' hoses, so I could reach from the compressor in the shop to anywhere inside or around the house when I needed to.
Good advice, and of course, have quick couplers on everything. I had three 50', one 15', and two 10' hoses, so I could reach from the compressor in the shop to anywhere inside or around the house when I needed to.
RobertN
Super Member
Yes, lots of couplers, and some spares. Some tools come with them, some don't. Some come with different types too. Standardize on one type...
I don't know what the ones I use are called. They have a squared off ring near the end, as compared to the more triangular ring found on some.
I don't know what the ones I use are called. They have a squared off ring near the end, as compared to the more triangular ring found on some.
sleepyhollow
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2001
- Messages
- 155
- Location
- Connecticut
- Tractor
- JD 4310, eHydro - R4, dual SVC, speedmatch/cruise, rear floods
There are a number of considerations when buying a compressor and since I'm in the market for one I thought I would share my thoughts on the matter.
I've been researching compressors lately for a metal workinging/blacksmithing shop I plan to build on my property and during this process my ideas about what make a good compressor have changed somewhat.
Originally I just looked at features such as reciever capacity, single stage vs. two stage, 135 PSI vs. 175, aluminum vs. cast iron and true HP vs. developed HP (marketing horsepower) when differentiating between low end consumer grade equipment and high end professional/industrial equipment. Later in my research I started to consider more subtle features and the impact they had on quality, durability and serviceability such as lubrication method, pump rpm and valve design.
As others have suggested earlier the applications you have in mind will determine the type, size, quality etc of compressor you will want to get. In my case I will be using the compressor for cabinet sandblasting, power hammer, plasma cutter and some handheld air tools. This use will not be continuous as it might be in a business. From a capacity perspective the sandblaster will be the biggest air hog both in pressure and ACFM so my compressor must be able to supply enough air for the sandblaster and have enough reservoir capacity to avoid running the pump continuously. A compressor with 175 PSI or more, with a minimum of 5 HP (not developed HP which is a marketing ploy used by manufacturers of poor quality compressors to make the motor look more powerful than it is) and 17 ACFM is what I arrived at as starting point for a shop compressor. An 80 gallon reciever was a must as one can never have too much capacity assuming the pump is sized appropriately.
The type of compressor must be considered next. I won't be using this for a business and if I'm lucky, I'll be using it on weekend and maybe some weeknights. There are reciprocating compressors which are more famliar to most people and they can include oil lubed and oiless designs for everything from filling tires or shop air (oil) to filling dive tanks (oiless) - the application changes the sub type of reciprocating compressor you choose. Reciprocating compressors run the entire price, form factor, quality and duty cycle spectrum. Then there are rotary screw compressors which are primarily used in industry because they are generally 100% duty cycle, durable, more efficient etc. but expensive in the extreme which is why I quickly crossed them off my list...
The next consideration is quality as differentiated from value. A compressor may be a good value for someone even though it is of poor quality because maybe the person only uses it a few times a year and the infrequent use does not make quality an issue. In my case I want a compressor that will last my lifetime with minor repairs if any - I would like to pass this compressor on to my son after it has given me years of trouble free serivce. So I am looking for the best compressor on the market that meets my needs and my budget ~$2000. While some my balk at this figure it is really not so bad when averaged over the number of years one expects to be able to use their compressor without trouble.
I started my quest looking at Ingersoll Rand. I was attracted to them because of their solid reputation, large market share (read good parts availability), industrial focus and they are built solidly. While I still believe the Ingersoll Rand T-30 series to be an excellent product I still had more to learn and would later decide that seemingly small differences in design can add years to pump life or make servicing a pleasure and not a nightmare.
Through my blacksmithing friends I came to hear about Quincy Compressors and while I forgot about it for a while my shop planning set me out researching again and I learned about a new differentiator between compressors - lubrication method.
Compressors must be lubricated to keep parts from self destructing. Oiless designs use a teflon or graphite coating or something similar to provide lubrication. Unfortunately these coatings wear down over time and do not provide the side benefit of cooling and temperature moderation/distribution that oil lubrication does. I believe this type of lubrication is asking for faster pump failure and more frequent repair - if the unit can even be repaired - so I am staying away from oiless designs.
The oil lubricated designs are either the traditional splash type or pressure lubricated. Splash lubrication is simple and inexpensive, a crankshaft mounted paddle "splashes" the oil in the reservoir around the innards of the pump such that the important areas of the pump get a fairly consistent coating of oil. While this method works and has been around for a long time it is not 100% effective in coating all critical areas all the time with the right amount of oil. It is possible to make a pump last a long time with this type of lubrication and most reciprocating compressors employ this method - though cost effective it is not the best quality design.
Pressure lubrication uses a simple, positive displacement gear pump to pick up oil from the reservoir and force it through a series of galleries or tubes to the precisely the right spot for the critical areas of the pump ensuring continuous and total lubrication from a constantly filtered source. This type of design costs twice as much but yields significant increases in pump life. The Quincy QR-25 line of reciprocating compressors is their top of the line and uses pressure lubrication. The QR-25 line is designed to last 25 years in an industrial environment running at 100% duty cycle. Some of these have been running this way for more than 40 years. In a home shop setting they should last more than a lifetime. I can't get this type of lubrication in an Ingersoll Rand in this category of pump. I can't name another manaufacturer that does this in a 5 HP pump.
Once I understood the impact that lubrication methods have on pump life I became convinced that the Quincy QR-25 line was for me even with the $2,300 price tag for the 5 HP model. Quincy makes some other lines of reciprocating compressors that are still very good, even their QT line which is splash lubricated and around $1,375 I considered.
Not only do I get longer life but there are the little touches that set this compressor apart from others such as 200 PSI instead of 175 which yields greater capacity for a given volume of reciever. The valves are designed so that they can be replaced without tearing the whole pump apart. Everything about this compressor is overbuilt which means it will last a very long time even under the most continuously punishing service conditions.
In the end, ultimate quality won out in my decision. There are a number of good compressors out there but none approach the quality I see in the Quincy QR-25 and for me this is the best value. Each person will approach this differently with different requirements but I hope to have shed some light on a little known compressor that I believe deserves more attention for those in the market for one. Please note that I am neither an employee nor stockholder in Quincy Compressor or any of it's holding companies. Quincy QR-25
I've been researching compressors lately for a metal workinging/blacksmithing shop I plan to build on my property and during this process my ideas about what make a good compressor have changed somewhat.
Originally I just looked at features such as reciever capacity, single stage vs. two stage, 135 PSI vs. 175, aluminum vs. cast iron and true HP vs. developed HP (marketing horsepower) when differentiating between low end consumer grade equipment and high end professional/industrial equipment. Later in my research I started to consider more subtle features and the impact they had on quality, durability and serviceability such as lubrication method, pump rpm and valve design.
As others have suggested earlier the applications you have in mind will determine the type, size, quality etc of compressor you will want to get. In my case I will be using the compressor for cabinet sandblasting, power hammer, plasma cutter and some handheld air tools. This use will not be continuous as it might be in a business. From a capacity perspective the sandblaster will be the biggest air hog both in pressure and ACFM so my compressor must be able to supply enough air for the sandblaster and have enough reservoir capacity to avoid running the pump continuously. A compressor with 175 PSI or more, with a minimum of 5 HP (not developed HP which is a marketing ploy used by manufacturers of poor quality compressors to make the motor look more powerful than it is) and 17 ACFM is what I arrived at as starting point for a shop compressor. An 80 gallon reciever was a must as one can never have too much capacity assuming the pump is sized appropriately.
The type of compressor must be considered next. I won't be using this for a business and if I'm lucky, I'll be using it on weekend and maybe some weeknights. There are reciprocating compressors which are more famliar to most people and they can include oil lubed and oiless designs for everything from filling tires or shop air (oil) to filling dive tanks (oiless) - the application changes the sub type of reciprocating compressor you choose. Reciprocating compressors run the entire price, form factor, quality and duty cycle spectrum. Then there are rotary screw compressors which are primarily used in industry because they are generally 100% duty cycle, durable, more efficient etc. but expensive in the extreme which is why I quickly crossed them off my list...
The next consideration is quality as differentiated from value. A compressor may be a good value for someone even though it is of poor quality because maybe the person only uses it a few times a year and the infrequent use does not make quality an issue. In my case I want a compressor that will last my lifetime with minor repairs if any - I would like to pass this compressor on to my son after it has given me years of trouble free serivce. So I am looking for the best compressor on the market that meets my needs and my budget ~$2000. While some my balk at this figure it is really not so bad when averaged over the number of years one expects to be able to use their compressor without trouble.
I started my quest looking at Ingersoll Rand. I was attracted to them because of their solid reputation, large market share (read good parts availability), industrial focus and they are built solidly. While I still believe the Ingersoll Rand T-30 series to be an excellent product I still had more to learn and would later decide that seemingly small differences in design can add years to pump life or make servicing a pleasure and not a nightmare.
Through my blacksmithing friends I came to hear about Quincy Compressors and while I forgot about it for a while my shop planning set me out researching again and I learned about a new differentiator between compressors - lubrication method.
Compressors must be lubricated to keep parts from self destructing. Oiless designs use a teflon or graphite coating or something similar to provide lubrication. Unfortunately these coatings wear down over time and do not provide the side benefit of cooling and temperature moderation/distribution that oil lubrication does. I believe this type of lubrication is asking for faster pump failure and more frequent repair - if the unit can even be repaired - so I am staying away from oiless designs.
The oil lubricated designs are either the traditional splash type or pressure lubricated. Splash lubrication is simple and inexpensive, a crankshaft mounted paddle "splashes" the oil in the reservoir around the innards of the pump such that the important areas of the pump get a fairly consistent coating of oil. While this method works and has been around for a long time it is not 100% effective in coating all critical areas all the time with the right amount of oil. It is possible to make a pump last a long time with this type of lubrication and most reciprocating compressors employ this method - though cost effective it is not the best quality design.
Pressure lubrication uses a simple, positive displacement gear pump to pick up oil from the reservoir and force it through a series of galleries or tubes to the precisely the right spot for the critical areas of the pump ensuring continuous and total lubrication from a constantly filtered source. This type of design costs twice as much but yields significant increases in pump life. The Quincy QR-25 line of reciprocating compressors is their top of the line and uses pressure lubrication. The QR-25 line is designed to last 25 years in an industrial environment running at 100% duty cycle. Some of these have been running this way for more than 40 years. In a home shop setting they should last more than a lifetime. I can't get this type of lubrication in an Ingersoll Rand in this category of pump. I can't name another manaufacturer that does this in a 5 HP pump.
Once I understood the impact that lubrication methods have on pump life I became convinced that the Quincy QR-25 line was for me even with the $2,300 price tag for the 5 HP model. Quincy makes some other lines of reciprocating compressors that are still very good, even their QT line which is splash lubricated and around $1,375 I considered.
Not only do I get longer life but there are the little touches that set this compressor apart from others such as 200 PSI instead of 175 which yields greater capacity for a given volume of reciever. The valves are designed so that they can be replaced without tearing the whole pump apart. Everything about this compressor is overbuilt which means it will last a very long time even under the most continuously punishing service conditions.
In the end, ultimate quality won out in my decision. There are a number of good compressors out there but none approach the quality I see in the Quincy QR-25 and for me this is the best value. Each person will approach this differently with different requirements but I hope to have shed some light on a little known compressor that I believe deserves more attention for those in the market for one. Please note that I am neither an employee nor stockholder in Quincy Compressor or any of it's holding companies. Quincy QR-25
TresCrows
Elite Member
"JR, I didn't know you had Sioux tools. "
I have several. I prefer their drill over most others. They are actually quite common in aircraft facilities. One place I worked a while needed some drills so I got them a deal from a supplier on Sioux drills etc. We bought 10 drills and a few other things for the shop. When I left Phoenix they gave me the one I had been using, no big deal but I appreciated it. It is still my favorite. J
I have several. I prefer their drill over most others. They are actually quite common in aircraft facilities. One place I worked a while needed some drills so I got them a deal from a supplier on Sioux drills etc. We bought 10 drills and a few other things for the shop. When I left Phoenix they gave me the one I had been using, no big deal but I appreciated it. It is still my favorite. J
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Thank you for the excellent post, sleepyhollow. I will chew on your findings as I decide on my compressor.
Bird
Rest in Peace
Sleephollow, I agree with you, and another high end quality compressor line is the Saylor-Beall. And while I'd certainly recommend things like the Quincy and Saylor-Beall for commercial/industrial use, they're a little steep on price for most of us just for home and farm use. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
