What size box blade to buy

[TripleR]

Thanks for all the help my tractor is wider that 6 foot so i guess will order the 7 footer.:thumbsup: :confused2: Now what brand to buy :laughing: thanks again to all

Now that's the hard part. I went with a Land Pride BB25, but go look closely at the way they are built and I am sure you will find one as good as the "name brands" cheaper. My dealer had an "off brand" out back and if it had been in 7 ft width I would have bought it as it looked as good as the Land Pride; don't remember the name.

Of course all this assumes general and not professional use as Land Pride and others make some with hydraulic retractable scarifiers and so on, but $$$$

 

[chevy292]

I bought my 6' from tractor supply. Its not a name brand but I have had great luck with it. I have been grading my 1000' driveway for over a year now with out any problem. The only time I managed to damage it was when I was pushing with it in reverse and slammed a hidden rock pretty hard. I bent the 2 ears for the lower hitch arms, nothing the torches couldn't fix!!

 

[Tractor Shopper]

I just ordered a 6' foot HD Woods Box Blade for my 47hp gear tractor, thought the HD would stand up to any abuse I could put it through and stayed with the 6' which is the same width as the tractor to be safe, and from what I hear Woods is a pretty good brand so hopefully I have my bases covered. I plan on working it hard and my time is limited so down time is not an option I want to deal with so this is what I decided to go with, just my 2 cents worth.

 

[jimgerken]

Everybody always says to get the width of the tractor or bigger, so I did that the first time around. Problem is, I upgraded tractors twice since then. But its funny, the current boxblade is a foot narrower than the tractor AND STILL WORKS FINE THAT WAY. It rips fine and cuts fine and it all works out fine for some reason. It's been weighted with a slab of steel about 350 pounds bolted to the back wall, and it can really do the work, since it is narrow and this results in higher psi on the cutting edges. One thing that may be helping me is I have hyd tilt, so even if the tractor rides a bit tilted, the blade can be made level. And once you get down to finishing passes, you are cuting very little and mostly spreading loose material around for final grade. As far as "covering your tracks", I always follow a rough grade box blade operation with a field drag (harrow), usually one drag section only, pulled with the 540 lawn tractor 'cause its ultra-manuverable compared to the big tractor, which makes it all perfect as a last step, so the tracks are definitely "covered". Its kinda nice that the box blade is not wider than the rear tires, cause I use it for counterweight too, so its on there all the time. Nothing worse than a couterweight that leave scars on all your building walls.
My 2 cents worth, since in this case it seems counter to all the usual advice.