Grapple What size grapple?

[Lineman North Florida]

Just started thinking about buying a Markham light duty grapple and was wondering if anyone might know what size would be best for my tractor, I have a Farmtrac 360 DTC with FEL supposed to be 39 HP, I dont know much about grapples as I dont have one so any info appreciated. Also if someone knows the price on these light duty units, rough estimate of course, thanks in advance for any info.

 

[HCJtractor]

What is the lift capacity of your FEL and do you have a quick attach mechanism for it? Unless Markham has changed, I think they only offer a "universal skid steer type" QA or the John Deere style QA. If you don't have one of these, you would have to buy an adapter, such as a API Tach-All, which are pretty costly ($700) assuming they make one for your specific FEL. Or I guess you could weld some type of adapter if you have that ability.
Generally, for a 40 hp tractor, I would get a 48" light duty, which is still plenty stong enough, which cost about $950. Don't forget you will also need hydraulic controls and this could cost from several hundred up to $600 for the WRLong electric over hydraulic valve setup. You have several choices in how to set up the hydraulic controls.

I bought a heavier duty version of this grapple for my 70 hp Kubota ($1460), an API Tach-All QA ($700) and the WRLong valve ($600). My lift capacity is about 2500 lbs. The grapple weighs about 400 or 500 lbs. I think the light duty is about 380ish.

Costly! But it is a killer implement, by far my favorite for land clearing, brush removal, uprooting trees, and general picking stuff up and carrying it somewhere else. It is well designed, well built, and worth every penny. I just wish my FEL was skid steer QA, so I would not have had to buy the Tach-All. Hope this info helps. If you have other questions, please respond.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

What is the lift capacity of your FEL and do you have a quick attach mechanism for it? Unless Markham has changed, I think they only offer a "universal skid steer type" QA or the John Deere style QA. If you don't have one of these, you would have to buy an adapter, such as a API Tach-All, which are pretty costly ($700) assuming they make one for your specific FEL. Or I guess you could weld some type of adapter if you have that ability.
Generally, for a 40 hp tractor, I would get a 48" light duty, which is still plenty stong enough, which cost about $950. Don't forget you will also need hydraulic controls and this could cost from several hundred up to $600 for the WRLong electric over hydraulic valve setup. You have several choices in how to set up the hydraulic controls.

I bought a heavier duty version of this grapple for my 70 hp Kubota ($1460), an API Tach-All QA ($700) and the WRLong valve ($600). My lift capacity is about 2500 lbs. The grapple weighs about 400 or 500 lbs. I think the light duty is about 380ish.

Costly! But it is a killer implement, by far my favorite for land clearing, brush removal, uprooting trees, and general picking stuff up and carrying it somewhere else. It is well designed, well built, and worth every penny. I just wish my FEL was skid steer QA, so I would not have had to buy the Tach-All. Hope this info helps. If you have other questions, please respond.

My FEL is supposed to have 2100 lbs of lifting capacity,I do have a QA type bucket on my loader, have been told that anything that fits bobcat skidsteer will fit my FEL via QA. I guess I thought that all I would have to do is run a set of hydraulic hoses back to my rear remotes to open and close the grapple ,if you could explain to me about the electric over hydraulic valve that I would need and why it would be much appreciated. Thanks again for your response.

 

[HCJ]

That's great to have the QA and the lift capacity should be plenty. The Markham should be ideal. You could run your hydraulics from the rear as this is the cheapest and often done, but I have never used one rigged that way. Disadvantages would be long hydro lines running under your tractor, but it works. Another way is to use a diverter, but again, I don't have any experience with that either. Most agree that the best method(and the most expensive) is a true electric over hydraulic valve (pull up WRLong's website to see this). The valve mounts on the side of your tractor under the loader arms and short lines run along side the arms and connect to the pigtailed line from the grapple cylinder with quick connect fittings. The knob on the loader control lever is replaced with a knob with an electric switch that your thumb activates. Therefore you can lift and curl your grapple and open or close the grapple top jaw without ever taking your hand off the control lever. Some think this is better and others think it isn't worth the extra cost. I paid around $600 for this feature whereas if you use your rear remotes or a diverter method, it would be less. Personally, I like mine as it is simple to operate. WRLong sells kits with all that you would need for your specific loader. Call Nelson at WRLong in N.C. and he can quote.

 

[HCJ]

By the way, there are many threads here that describe and discuss this and where I researched my recent purchase. Islandtractor is a gentleman who gives good advice on grapples and how to control them. I learned a lot from reading his posts. Check those out. He will tell you a narrow grapple is better than a wider one (48" seems ideal) and after having used mine for 3 months, I agree. It allows focused pressure to be applied when digging up trees and stumps and allows you to attack the roots specifically to uproot small trees (say up to 9" in diameter). That is what I have been doing mostly with mine...clearing land and widening roads. The narrow width really is not a disadvantage in picking up debris. It will grab plenty....limbs, stumps, logs, rocks, etc. It also is lighter then a wider one, so doesn't use up your lift capacity. It also has only one upper "thumb" whereas the wider ones have two, which increases costs. I have never felt that I needed a wider one. By the way, since my tractor is fairly big (70 horse and over 7000 lbs.) I had Markham custom make a 48" grapple just like the light duty one I suggested for you but with 1/2 steel verses 3/8. Cost $500 more but is beefier. I have bent one of my spacer tines slightly but it is only cosmetic. But I have been pretty aggressive and have been uprooting trees bigger that I should be. But hey, its been fun and the Markham has taken some punishment but works great. Hope this helps!!! Oh and by the way, you could always use your rear remotes initially and save some $ and add the electric valve later if it doesn"t work out. You would just be out of the hydraulic lines or you could even recycle those.

 

[scuvnut]

I'll chime in real quick on this.

I recently added a 4 in 1 and had the same hydraulic need. Decided to run lines from from the rear remotes. From the hydraulic thread, I contacted discounthydraulichose.com and they were great. Handled my need for two 1foot R2 hoses and all the fittings to the quick disconnects and they delivered them to me in one day for less than $150. All I needed was some zip ties and a short time to run them and I was in business.

Although I have to take my hand off my loader joystick to open/close the bucket, it works fine. If I was commerical and doing it all day, I'd change that.

I'm strongly considering a markham grapple as well. With the info in this and related threads, 48" is going to be my preference.

 

[dangerdoc]

Just started thinking about buying a Markham light duty grapple and was wondering if anyone might know what size would be best for my tractor, I have a Farmtrac 360 DTC with FEL supposed to be 39 HP, I dont know much about grapples as I dont have one so any info appreciated. Also if someone knows the price on these light duty units, rough estimate of course, thanks in advance for any info.

I have a small markham heavy duty grapple. I think you will be happy with their quality. Mine in only 32 inches wide but made out of 1/2 inch steel which is great for digging out rocks but for general use, I think the light duty 48 inch unit would be about perfect.

You can run electric over hydraulic which is expensive but very handy. Or you can run an extra valve off the power beyond for a few hundred dollars less.

The grapple is going to run you about $1000. Electric over hydraulic may cost you another $1000 depending on who does it. I put the extra valve in myself so the total cost for the hydraulics was about $200.

 

[SCDolphin]

HCJ:

I am in SC as well. Did you look at the WRLong by any chance?

 

[Lineman North Florida]

HCJ:

I am in SC as well. Did you look at the WRLong by any chance?

I have not looked at them, but I will before I make a decision, looks like I got plenty of time. I see that you have some of their attachments, how do you like them? Quality of product? Most of all customer service?

 

[Samandothers]

Lineman,
I have a light duty 60" with extra spacer tines in the bottom. It has one 30" top tine and is a great piece of equipment. My tractor is a 40 HP and handles the light duty well. I usually have the backhoe on when I use the grapple to add counter weight. I took the backhoe off this weekend and put a scrape blade on the back. I need more counter weight. Could be the 48" would be a bit lighter and not make the tractor as 'front heavy'. I really like my Markham unit. I checked 3 or 4 dealers of WR Long equipment to compare their prices. None were close to the price I could get on the Markham, I believe the closest was about $500 more. I believe WR Long only sales through dealers which tends to add to the price. The extra spacers in the bottom create a 4.5" space between the bottom tines vs 9". I believe it added about $100 to the price. As I remember the base price when I bought about a year ago from Markham was around $900. I would do it again. I might consider the 48" for a lighter unit although I can't complain about mine and have carried lots of brush, long logs and rock.