What to buy for my workshop.

[EddieWalker]

This is my problem.
I have a workshop that has little to no power in it.(lights only 110)
The cost of running 240 volts is like 2000

I think you need to rethink running 240 volts to your shop. While I agree that $2,000 is allot, I'm wondering where you got that number?

How far is it from your panel to the shop? Did you price aluminum wire or copper?

Having the power to your shop 24/7 is easily worth paying the money for instead of having a generator. Not just the expense of keeping it going or the noise, but the fact that they wear out over time. Spend the money on having 240 volts to the shop and never have to mess with it again. Spend it on a generator, and spend the rest of your life messing with the generator.

Eddie

 

[Philscbx]

If it's not too rocky or root filled, I'd get a trencher and lay it out to both ends, then have inspector check final connections.

Anytime I had him come, he would inspect one or two of the dozen boxes, and sign it off. I was always fussy anyway, with all romex laid flat and secure. This is extra work, but looks killer in exposed pole barn.

You might as well go 100 amp or more with small panel. Going from 50 to 100 amp isn't going to be that much extra.

For all the 110 service/
I ran all 4 plex outlets.
Each pair of outlets in the 4 plex had dedicated 20 amp service, vs the 4 plex on one 20 amp circuit.
Now general purpose 1 hp air-compressor can be on one side, and any other tool on the other half of 4 plex. Even 1 hp pressure washer.

This saves running cords across area to get a clean 20 amp service to the tool.

The rule then at the panel box, is to gang both 20 amp breakers together with bolt going through the hole in the end of switch triggers.
They will be mounted in the panel above each other.
This way if one is inside the 4 plex, both circuits are switched off, and harmless. A lot of 12 and 10 gauge, with only 14 going to lights from the switch.

If outlet is a single pair, then I split the upper from the lower on separate runs. This has ended any blown circuits for years.

2 welding 220 outlets should be in opposite locations near the main doors.
With one, the project always ends up in the other bay.

I made up a fifty foot 220 extension cord for 50 amp wire feed welder.
Just in case the project won't fit inside. I prefer to do all of it outdoors with the grinding mess getting into everything and the bad resin taste.

 

[kenstrac]

I've been holding-off buying the 115' of service wire I need for my new shed, I normally buy electrical items from Lowe's as it's closer, but was at Home Depot a couple weeks ago and found the wire I needed at a "better" price. I'm going to run 8/3 w/ground and that gives me a 50a service - plenty to run a small welder. HD had a 125' roll of the 8/3 for $175, Lowe's doesn't even carry it. I was expecting to have to buy 6/3 at Lowe's and it was going to cost me about $280 at last price check. It pays to look around. Was the same thing when I bought the 3" schedule 80 conduit for my house 2 years ago - I saved $22 per 10' stick getting it from HD as opposed to Lowe's.

50 amp service you need 6/3 w/g copper 0r 4/3 w/g alum. that's the code you will also need to put a grd rod at the sub feed box

 

[kenstrac]

If it's not too rocky or root filled, I'd get a trencher and lay it out to both ends, then have inspector check final connections.

Anytime I had him come, he would inspect one or two of the dozen boxes, and sign it off. I was always fussy anyway, with all romex laid flat and secure. This is extra work, but looks killer in exposed pole barn.

You might as well go 100 amp or more with small panel. Going from 50 to 100 amp isn't going to be that much extra.

For all the 110 service/
I ran all 4 plex outlets.
Each pair of outlets in the 4 plex had dedicated 20 amp service, vs the 4 plex on one 20 amp circuit.
Now general purpose 1 hp air-compressor can be on one side, and any other tool on the other half of 4 plex. Even 1 hp pressure washer.

This saves running cords across area to get a clean 20 amp service to the tool.

The rule then at the panel box, is to gang both 20 amp breakers together with bolt going through the hole in the end of switch triggers.
They will be mounted in the panel above each other.
This way if one is inside the 4 plex, both circuits are switched off, and harmless. A lot of 12 and 10 gauge, with only 14 going to lights from the switch.

If outlet is a single pair, then I split the upper from the lower on separate runs. This has ended any blown circuits for years.

2 welding 220 outlets should be in opposite locations near the main doors.
With one, the project always ends up in the other bay.

I made up a fifty foot 220 extension cord for 50 amp wire feed welder.
Just in case the project won't fit inside. I prefer to do all of it outdoors with the grinding mess getting into everything and the bad resin taste.

From what your describing here you are doing split circuits 12/3 w/g to 2 outlets 110 to one and 110 to the other using the neutral common to both.
The breaker should be a 240 Volt breaker not 2 -110 bolted together.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

You can buy a Miller Legend welder and it will do everything you need. I imagine they're about forty five hundred to five thousand new now.

The advantage of the Legend is it has two circuits in its generator system. Hundred and ten voltage is on one and is generated at 1800 rpm so the noise level isn't bad. The weld circuit is three phase two twenty and is generated at thirty six hundred. The down side is you can't run a hundred ten semitaneously while welding. It does have a grinder/lights circuit while welding but its a ninety instead of sixty cycle.

I had a Legend for many years and loved it. The weld circuit is three phase like the one I have on the Trailblazer I have now and that gives you a nicer puddle while welding. But the down side is the fact that you can't have someone running equipment that carries many amps or won't handle the different cycle frequency. But when you're just needing a hundred and ten volts it's sure nice to have the lower noise level you get with the lower rpms of the motor. Miller - Engine-Driven - Miller Legend 302

 

[petegoud]

$2000 will buy you a good generator. Then you have to buy the gas it takes to run it. If I were you I'd spend the money for 240 volts and not look back. It's a whole lot easier to flip a switch than to start a generator. You know, the generator you'll probably purchase a little later anyway! Doug

 

[skipmarcy]

Not sure if you mis-typed this, or if you are going to run 50 amps through 8/3 wire. It is my understanding that you run 40 amps through #8 wire and you need #6 wire for 50 amps.

You compared 6/3 at Lowes or $280 with 8/3 at Home Depot for $175.

At full draw, the 6/3 will be plenty for a 50 amp welder if that's the only thing that you have on the line. Will this be a dedicated line for the welder? or will it be a power supply for a sub panel that will also supply other demands?

Eddie

Yes, I wrote what I meant to say, just didn't do it too clearly. Lowe's didn't have the 8/3 to even compare a price to - I was just trying to show that to buy service wire at Lowe's I would have had to spend that much more money. I thought over $100 more to go from 8/3 to 6/3 was a little much (almost $1 per foot). My building is a 12x20 storage shed, not a shop, will be putting just a couple receptacles and lites for occasional use and will have a 50a receptacle for a buzzbox for that once or twice a year need out back when I can't get the implement into the garage for a quickie repair. The welder stays in my garage otherwise for all my other uses and is properly wired there. I have no intention of trying to draw 50a thru the 8/3 wire for any length of time, just that my welder has a 50a configured pigtail installed on it and need the 50a receptacle. The rating on the welder says it draws 45a in high range. In my area here I don't have a mandatory inspection to go thru for additional buildings so I don't have to worry about passing code. I'm fully aware of electrical codes - I built my house & garage 2 years ago myself and passed both rough-in and final inspections first time both times.

 

[Kfbeal]

From what your describing here you are doing split circuits 12/3 w/g to 2 outlets 110 to one and 110 to the other using the neutral common to both.
The breaker should be a 240 Volt breaker not 2 -110 bolted together.

I'm not sure what that matters? Or am I missing something? As long as the breakers are on the opposite leg, then it should work just fine. I think the objective is to be able to isolate each plug on a separate breaker.

 

[tommu56]

50 amp service you need 6/3 w/g copper 0r 4/3 w/g alum. that's the code you will also need to put a grd rod at the sub feed box

I think by code he will have to use 4 conductor wire for sub pannel and no ground out there.

double check me but the last 2 I put in here in pa were that way.

tom

 

[kenstrac]

I'm not sure what that matters? Or am I missing something? As long as the breakers are on the opposite leg, then it should work just fine. I think the objective is to be able to isolate each plug on a separate breaker.

I think this will explain it all !


Electrical wiring hazards: how to inspect multi-wire branch circuits & split-wired electrical receptacles outlet wiring requirements for safety