What to do with my septic field?

tc35dforme · May 15, 2004

I've got blueberries and raspeberries on top of mine...both nice shallow rooting plants ( my system is pretty deep ). Does two thing....keeps the accidental vehicle traffic away ( dump trucks ) and keeps the birds well fed !!

mrcaptainbob · May 16, 2004

I had a discussion with the county inspector about that situation. He was quite concerned about the path that the local government was taking about leechfields and tanks. He mentioned there were at least three modern ways of rejuvenation. Unfortunatley the county he was working for hadn't upgraded what's authorized. It may work great, just not allowd to do it. Need to get the county codes changed to accept the 'new'. I read recently that the brine from watersofteners helps in the compaction (plugging-up) of soils, too. There's also a method where by the repair/rejuvenation can be done by opening both ends of a tile run and flushing it. I believe there's somethjing added to increase the airation to help the bacteria along. But the plastic beads in the ground seem like a very good approach. Maybe the two systems combined? Especially since rebuild estimates are in the 12K + range! We've considered doing the local water treatment path. It's EPA sanctioned and the claims are that the water coming from the sytem is suitable for showers or swimming pools!

Kevin37 · May 16, 2004

We've considered doing the local water treatment path. It's EPA sanctioned and the claims are that the water coming from the sytem is suitable for showers or swimming pools!

What is this treatment? I live in Clarke County VA and the perc-septic-drainfield laws are extra strict for any new construction. We are a high clay-rock area, but the County codes specifically prohibit any of the modern drainfield technologies and improvements.

I could use any information on improving drainfield performance.

Kevin

MMM · May 16, 2004

With such poor drainage you might could borrow an idea from treatment plants and install holding tank with jet pump and sprinkler system in lieu of field. I've got mine on a timer so it runs just before daylight. This supplies a day's waste water for promoting deep root system, avoiding fungus problems and surprise showers while enjoying the yard. I don't have strict regulations on the farm though

stephan · May 16, 2004

All this talk reminds me of some problems we had with our septic some time back (2 years). I did some research on the net and found some really good documents distributed by local councils here in Australia ( Here is an example). Seems that most people here are giving valid advice, things like don't drive on them, no animals, don't plant on them (grass seems ok) etc.

Our septic was very odourous in the house for a while there and we tried everything, additives, pumping, redirecting our greywater onto the lawn to no effect. Turns out it was the rubber seal around the base of the toilet that was buggered, bit of silicon and hey presto.

I understand the home water treatment plants product water suitable for plants and lawn only.

MMM · May 16, 2004

They say you could drink it. I don't know about that. I jumped from the mower and took a bath after the surprise 'golden shower' I got before installing the extra tank and timer. Has no smell.......but just the thought of it makes you nervous.

snmhanson · May 16, 2004

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I started a pretty hot topic. Anyway, I went and dug around over my leach field and the lines are only buried 6" below the surface. I'm not sure what is typically used for septic drain fields but we have open bottom plastic "tubs" for lack of a better description. They (the tubs) were about 24" wide and 12" deep and run the length of the leach field which is about thirty feet. We have very fine soil when it is loose but when compacted it can turn into a clay-type soil. I think what the contractor told me about not using a riding mower on it, etc... may have more to do with local codes and county recommendations rather than his personal recommendations. He told me he mows on his but has had to extend/rejuvinate it a couple times. He lives only ten minutes away but in a different county so different codes or whatever. Also, where we live ground conditions can really change from house to house. Anyway, I guess the best thing will be to plant grass over it and mow with a push mower to start and then play it by ear after that. Thanks for all the input.

Matt

mrcaptainbob · May 17, 2004

Here's one site:
http://www.inspect-ny.com/septbook.htm
I'll try to look up the other info we have. It was something about 'alternative septic systems'....It was about two years ago when my wife and I researched this. We were about to purchase what would have been a desirable piece of property except that it didn't perk. These sytems clarify the water to such a point that it's actually drinkable with the available options! EPA approved, many studies done in Canad as well as by various universities across the country. Will look up the info in the next few days.

MarkV · May 17, 2004

Matt, your exploration makes the contractors recommendation sound more logical if the system is only 6" below grade. It sounds like the domed field you describe is an Infiltrator (brand name) system. We have that at one of our places though I recall the sections being taller than 12". In our area these systems allow for shorter runs and no gravel back fill because the dome will hold a greater volume of liquid and disperse it at a rate the ground can handle. The domes are fairly ridged but I would hesitate to drive my tractor over them if it is only 6" below grade.

MarkV

Currmudgeon · May 17, 2004

( It sounds like the domed field you describe is an Infiltrator (brand name) system.)

It sure does, and those plastic tubs, being quite wide, do not have much structural strength. This is one I think I'd keep the lawn tractor off as much as possible. If I used the lawn tractor, think I'd mow at right angles to the lines.

Anything heavier than a lawn tractor would be a definite no-no.