what to look for in a used stick welder

[bigballer]

i decided to go for the newer one, it is in really good shape and the stinger(??) looks hardly used. the cords are perfect. it rolls through the amp setting smoothly and is super clean. the lead lenght looks OK for where it will be set up in my garage but can make longer ones if i need to later. it looks like it has copper coil on the inside as well. now i need to get some accessories (helmet, sticks, slag hammer, gloves, etc). what is the best stick to get for general purpose farm welding? first project will be to work on my grapply which is 3/8" steel. i have some old horseshoes and other scraps i can practice on to get the hang of it back (it's been 20 years)..

 

[k0ua]

i decided to go for the newer one, it is in really good shape and the stinger(??) looks hardly used. the cords are perfect. it rolls through the amp setting smoothly and is super clean. the lead lenght looks OK for where it will be set up in my garage but can make longer ones if i need to later. it looks like it has copper coil on the inside as well. now i need to get some accessories (helmet, sticks, slag hammer, gloves, etc). what is the best stick to get for general purpose farm welding? first project will be to work on my grapply which is 3/8" steel. i have some old horseshoes and other scraps i can practice on to get the hang of it back (it's been 20 years)..

Sounds good, I still say you should buy that $125 old one and sell it for more money, I think it is worth at least 200 225.. but anyway.. Oh boy, what rod for a new guy.. hard choice and what ever I say here will be disputed by the next guy that likes the other rod.. How about I go over some properties and you decide.. 6011, good deep penetration, not hard to start and run, kinda rougher looking beads.. works well on dirty rusty metal. 6013, low penetrator, easy to start and run, so so looking welds. I use it for thin material and use thin rods. even 1/16 but also use 3/32. I used to use it for thin stuff and tackup a lot but since getting the TIG torch I don't really use it at all. 6013 is considered a beginners rod by some. I have seen the term "bambi rod" used. 7014 is a medium perpetrator, likes more amps for a given rod size, it is easy to start, run and restart, gives a good pretty rather unique smooth bead. It runs fast. Sometimes called "idiot rod" or "drag rod" because it is easy to run and an idiot can do it. You can actually drag it in the puddle without sticking. You techinque is to move faster than other rods. Conventional wisdom is that the welds should be strong, as strong as 7018 but some recent tests from some guys here and testimony of some pro welders do no bear that out. I use it to "fill things" because it runs nice and smooth and the strength does not matter much for that. A lot of guys swear by it and glue everything together with it. Now to my favorite, 7018.. A medium penetrator, likes clean metal, makes very pretty beads, runs smooth (not as easy as 7014) and makes Strong welds.. this is what you want for building things that matter.. Restrike is hard to do, must pop of the "corn" of flux that forms on the end. 7018 should be kept in a rod oven, but most of us don't do it. only pro's do, and dedicated hobbyists The rod needs to be kept moisture free to ensure its Lo Hydrogen properties. There are many others of course but this covers the main ones most hobbyist use.. If I was you I would start out on DC and you will rarely use AC. Good luck, come back and post some pictures with what ever you use,:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[bigballer]

thanks James. i am actually still considering getting the other one, i might be able to clean it up and sell it for more also could do a comparison and if i end up liking it more could sell the newer one.. either way if the guy still has it tomorrow, i will drive over there and look at it.

thanks for the response on the sticks. i am going to have to digest this a bit and will likely have more questions in the near future!!

 

[k0ua]

thanks James. i am actually still considering getting the other one, i might be able to clean it up and sell it for more also could do a comparison and if i end up liking it more could sell the newer one.. either way if the guy still has it tomorrow, i will drive over there and look at it.

thanks for the response on the sticks. i am going to have to digest this a bit and will likely have more questions in the near future!!

Cool, Remember while I have been welding about 20 years, I am a hobbyist welder, not a Pro. Never was a pro, and I don't play one on TV I don't practice everyday and you get rusty pretty fast.. But there are plenty of Pro's and ex Pro's on here, those are the guys you should really listen to. But that said I will try my best to answer any and all questions as best as I know how. One other thing, with a DC welder after you master sticking.. you can spend a little more and get set up for scratch start TIG using your Thunderbolt, It is not as nice as a dedicated TIG rig, but it does not cost an arm and a leg either. and if you do get a dedicated TIG rig later on, the investment in the regulator and cylinder will be what you need for that too. I really like TIG for small lightweight things, and it is so controllable. It takes a while to learn, but that is part of the fun.. Good Luck with it.

James K0UA

 

[bigballer]

i got some time in tonight practing on old horseshoes (the real ones) with 6011 sticks.. it seems AC puts out a nicer bead, it was kinda tall though does that mean i am moving too fast? on DC+ it was a really high bead and not as nice. i am probably doing something wrong, both times it was set at 100A.

 

[Shield Arc]

If you're running 1/8-inch 6011, 100-amps is pretty high. But remember every machine runs a little different! Mostly likely you're traveling a little too fast. Or your arc length is too close. The closer the arc length the less voltage you have. The longer the arc length the higher the voltage. Close arc length means cold / dry puddle, longer arc length means hotter / wet puddle.

 

[monckywrench]

Run a bunch of stringers at least six inches long on metal you've cleaned off with a grinder.

The longer the stringers the more you will smooth out.

Good score on the welder. I don't need one but at those prices I'd resell both!

 

[sparc]

7018 should be kept in a rod oven, but most of us don't do it. only pro's do, and dedicated hobbyists

An old dorm type cube fridge sligthly modified (don't need working compressor) can be easily madeinto a makeshift low temp rod oven that while it won't keep your rod at 150+ deg will keep the moisture away.
find one at a yard sale for next to nothing.

 

[undercut]

I'm hoping to put my 7018s in the original tin canister and keep it near'ish to the pilot light of the furnace or hot water tank. Will probably buy a toaster oven to heat the rods before using them. I don't live in an area where the humidity is very high.

 

[Shield Arc]

I don't live in an area where the humidity is very high.

Really?!!!!!!!!! I spent almost a year working in Bellingham, built the Alaska Ferry Terminal in Fairheaven.