Buying Advice What to look for, where to look....

   / What to look for, where to look.... #11  
If you don't want to spend a lot of money, something like a Ford 4000 would handle all your cutting, tilling, and grading needs especially if everything is flat without trees. My neighbor has one and it is a nice machine. If you decide to buy new almost all the new tractors in the 40 to 60 hp range are nice. I am in the same category as jeff9366 in buying a premium tractor with all the bells and whistles. You will not regret it one bit once the payments stop. lol
 
   / What to look for, where to look.... #12  
Don't forget to check out the new Yanmar YT347/359. Great tractors but their marketing department needs to kick it into overdrive.
 
   / What to look for, where to look....
  • Thread Starter
#14  
If you don't want to spend a lot of money, something like a Ford 4000 would handle all your cutting, tilling, and grading needs especially if everything is flat without trees. My neighbor has one and it is a nice machine. If you decide to buy new almost all the new tractors in the 40 to 60 hp range are nice. I am in the same category as jeff9366 in buying a premium tractor with all the bells and whistles. You will not regret it one bit once the payments stop. lol

Guy who is currently knocking down the grass/weeds for me said the same thing:
Ford 4000
OR
504 International

He was cutting with a Ford 7000.
 
   / What to look for, where to look.... #15  
I had planned to finish mow it all - in the beginning.... But that's not a lot of planning

Every Finish Mower I know of has rubber V-belt drive to the spindles. You cannot cut grass longer than 5" with Finish Mowers, the V-belts belts slip, concomitantly the blades stop.


Every Rotary Cutter/Bush Hog I know of has gear power transmission all the way through. A Rotary Cutter will cut 60" tall grass if the blades are sharp and the tractor moves slowly. It is possible to stall out a Rotary Cutter but that results from grass, usually very long wet grass, packing under the deck, not from transmission slippage. You then lift the mower with Three Point Hitch hydraulics, shake the grass out, and continue.

Few with Rotary Cutters can resist the urge to cut saplings. However, a properly adjusted Rotary Cutter with blades maintained sharp, NOT USED FOR CUTTING SAPLINGS, will yield an even cut.
 
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   / What to look for, where to look.... #16  
Regarding: "To operate a six foot Bush Hog, you will need a tractor of 45-horsepower gross. If you want to mount a wider Bush Hog, or cut unusually long grass, you need more horsepower."

That's probably close but maybe some exceptions exist. In my case, I'm running an 8 foot Woods DS830 twin spindle rotary cutter behind my Massey 1758 tractor. It's advertised as 44.5 PTO horsepower. And 58 gross horsepower. When trying to match cutter/tractor I learned to focus on the PTO horsepower, not gross power, then match that with the cutter. The PTO power does vary between brands. The Kubota L6060, similar to my Massey 1758, claims nearly 10 more PTO horsepower.

In my case I pushed the absolute limit at 44.5 PTO horsepower for an 8 foot cutter. I was concerned about going right to the recommended edge on power, but in actual use I have plenty of power. I can mow as fast as I want, in as high of a weeds as I choose to cut, and have never had any problems. Except of course for hitting stumps but those problems are my fault!!
 
   / What to look for, where to look.... #17  
Thank you for the reply....
So I'm looking for something with 45+ horsepower gross
Operating Station cramped - I'm 6'3" around 250 - don't know how I'll fit exactly then...
I assume it'll go in the third car garage to begin - before the outbuilding is built.

So based on some of what Scotty said "So even looking at the used market conservatively, buying a twenty year old tractor with 2000 hours on it should give you at least 20 more years to use it with minimal maintenance"

I could look at a 1998-2000 model
look for local dealers
look for 45 hp
cross compare and see what pops up?
then look for the attachments I'd want.

Is that the normal route?

thanks again for the help.

and for snow?

Yep. That's the idea. You can tell a whole lot about a tractor from it's condition. Expect grease and seepage around hydraulic cylinders or connectors, but deduct for oil leaks on the engine or tranny. A conscienscious owner will keep the radiator clean of dirt and chaff, and will cover the operators station and controls with a tarp at least most of the time. Ask to see some sort of records for oil changes and such. Tires with a small amount of cracking in the sidewalls irk me personally, but they seem to last in spite of the cracks. I know the tires on my JD date back to at least the mid 1980s and they work fine.
Things to be willing to pay lots extra to get would be: 4WD, HST or some sort of powershift tranny, and POWER STEERING for sure. Get PS; steering a tractor with a full loader bucket and no PS is no fun.

Are new tractors better? Yes, of course they are. But nothing at all wrong with gaining experience with a used one.

Unlike a car or machine that tend to be built to a limited lifespan, every make of tractor out there is built to last as long as possible. It's just part of the industry. Some manufacturers get it better than others....and yes, there are a few oddball makes....but not many..... but the intent is still the same: to make one that will last forever.
That makes it nice for the person looking at used ones. If it runs and works for an hour without problems it will most probably run that way for the next decade. And most problems are real obvious. Don't be hung up on having to get a diesel. If you like gas engines - and if you are comfortable with cleaning carburettors every few years - then the industrial engines used on many of the older US tractors are things of beauty, quieter, less smoke, less efficient, but perfectly good in every way.

For Snow? Just Use your loader bucket and a good back blade/box blade for the first season or two. That combo is the same one you use for dirt work anyway....so you not only have it mounted, but it sure does beat shoveling. In a year or two you will know more about what kind of specific attachment that you want to use.. or not.
Chances are good that whatever it is will hook up to your existing tractor. At the worst you may have to buy an adapter or extra hydraulic control.
Good Luck,
rScotty
 
   / What to look for, where to look....
  • Thread Starter
#18  
OK so as we build and build through this conversation. Thank you everyone.

Sounds like a tractor from 1970-present with 45+ HP (though not necessarily - plowhog comment), 4wd, PS, HST (maybe?).

I assume if I cross reference those "wants" I'll find quite a few.

Thanks,
 
   / What to look for, where to look.... #20  
I have no experience with Ford tractors but this Ford 4000 looks good to me.

How far is Lake of the Ozarks from Kansas City?

I would be reticent about driving too far while pulling a trailer for CL merchandise.


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