what to make ?

[LD1]

helped neighbor clean out barn this weekend, acquired a homemade logsplitter for my efferts, unusual build on splitter but the I beam and 4x24 ram seems to be fine, was thinking strip it down to beam weld receiver hitch tube to one end and in the middle, replace hoses and run it off aux. pto on the 425, unfortunately it would have a cycle time of roughly 40 seconds, I do not heat with wood so it would not be used as a log splitter,possiblely pipe bending, bead breaking, trimming branches occasionally, what other mischeif could I get into with it? ideas - thoughts

Is it just a beam and cylinder or is it a complete logsplitter. You mentioned it is an unusual build, what is unusual about it. WE NEED PICS. If it has a motor/pump and resivore why not just leave it the way it is?? Even junk homemade splitters are bringing a premium around here. Sell it and buy what you want.

 

[washita]

yes j j your right pto hydraulics would be faster looked up cylinder today it is 2" rod x 5" bore x 14" stroke made by prince my honest opinion is anvil is to far away from cylinder, here are some pictures.

 

[J_J]

yes j j your right pto hydraulics would be faster looked up cylinder today it is 2" rod x 5" bore x 14" stroke made by prince my honest opinion is anvil is to far away from cylinder, here are some pictures.

With the cylinder fully extended, it should just barely touch the anvil. If the stroke is 14 in, then the space for the log should be 14 in, maybe 15 in..

There was another guy on the TBN that had a short cylinder that he wanted to split 24 in or longer logs. He was thinking of a scissor type action or lever type. For instance, your cylinder is 14 in stroke. so how would you split 24 in logs? In your situation, it would be better to attach the push plate on the rod, and the wedge on the end. Of course a longer beam would be used. Now assuming that you have the spacing at 24 in, you push the first log until it stops, and retract the wedge, and then you add a gage block that will allow you to push the 24 in log all the way through the wedge. It is only time, you have the power.

 

[washita]

it lacks by probably 7-8" here is what I will try to accomplish

 

[J_J]

it lacks by probably 7-8" here is what I will try to accomplish

So, are you going to leave it at 14 in?

 

[washita]

I think your suggestion would work well in this situation, I personnaly do no heat with wood so its not a big to me my brother in law might burn 1/2 cord per winter so that probably only splitting it will do, gage block with sharpened edge might work well for pinching off saplings, do you think receiver hitch tube could handle the pressure ?that would be easy to fabricate and adjust for different lengths

 

[J_J]

I think your suggestion would work well in this situation, I personnaly do no heat with wood so its not a big to me my brother in law might burn 1/2 cord per winter so that probably only splitting it will do, gage block with sharpened edge might work well for pinching off saplings, do you think receiver hitch tube could handle the pressure ?that would be easy to fabricate and adjust for different lengths

On the hitch tube, sideways would be OK if you beef it up

I have a 3ph log splitter, and I was thinking of modifying it to cut trees up to 5 in at the base. I am going to hang mine off of the 3 point setup.

 

[washita]

did some more measureing there is enough room for a 24" piece but only 14" of ram stroke, think I will cut off everything and start over cylinder support welded on crooked, welds look marginal at best ( 20+ yrs welding fabricating experience) think I will look up shear strength of grade 8 bolts and incorperate a receiver tube where the anvil was so I can make easy stop adjustments plus change to a pipe bending die when needed, back to the original train of thought the wedge lacks touching the anvil by 10"