What TYPE of grapple (not brand or salesteam) to go with?

[mykleh]

I have a "thumb" for my tractor and a grapple for my toolcat.. sometimes a picture is worth part of the explaining.. I got the thumb for the tractor as it didn't add much weight but you can see the amount of brush it can handle, works much better for smaller stuff and holding logs to cut but then you have to watch out not to hit the thumb or the bucket in the center areas with the saw.. the "L" grapple with two clams works much better for holding logs to cut (only have to watch out for the top clams and also can stuff way more brush into it (go vertical into pile and clamp down grabbing about everything). the double clams is the way to go you can grab one big rock, uneven Y branched logs, root balls you name it..

 

[DieselBound]

My opinions only:

1) A grapple on a bucket is useless. Nothing I have ever wanted to grapple fits in a bucket, and dirt doesn't need a grapple lid.
2) For brush or digging up roots, get a root rake. For firewood and trees get a L bottom grapple for the capacity.
3) Wider is not better. No way you want the same width as your bucket.
4) Get a grapple with greasable bushings.
5) $800 for the 3rd function installed is very good. At your level of skill and likely usage "true 3rd function" vs "diverter" doesn't matter. I only do one function at a time anyway.

Good luck!

#1 - Rock buckets- if your work deals with lots of big rocks then a bucket isn't useless. I'll admit that I have yet to hear of any folks here having such a dedicated need (never, however, say never).

#2 - Protruding lower tines (that's what my EA grapple has) works for light roots and brush digging; as to the value of an "L" Bottom, "firewood" could be many things, same with "trees"- I've picked up massive tree trunks that would readily be grab-able was a clamshell grapple. If one has different tasks and only one tool then that one tool will have compromises.

#3. - If you grab up a bunch of brush a wider grapple is absolutely better. And, a wider grapple allows one to snag stuff to the periphery (of the wheels): I can more readily snag blackberry vines as I mow along- with a narrower grapple I'd have to push my wheels further into the brush (and if the blackberries are growing up/on a fence the wheels cannot go to far over else I'd be hitting the fence!). NOTE: I had my pallet forks on while mowing recently (I was combining tasks- picking up and dropping off my palletized firewood crates and mowing) and I was able to really snag some big blackberry vines (up in trees!).

#5 - A 3rd function is nice, but one has to justify the cost (how much is it really going to be used?). I plumbed hydraulics off my rear remotes; I use my full-detent ports as that allows me to just pop the control lever and the grapple opens or closes allowing me to more quickly free up my right hand (of course, I also have to pop the lever back into the neutral position as soon as the jaws get clamped down).

It's mentioned that dual lids are best. I'm not in total agreement. My grapple has a single lid and I have found no instance in which I have felt a dual lid would have performed the task signficantly better than a single: I've done things with a single lid that were likely better performed by a single than a double. I picked a single lid because it's less complex- only one set of hoses and one hydraulic cylinder to have issues with.

 

[ericm979]

Dual lids grip uneven material at more points. Useful if you do a lot of that. OTOH the lids don't open in tandem- one has less drag and opens/closes first. And the duals cost a little more and add a bit of weight.

Wider grapples snagging things is not always good. The other day I was mowing with the grapple on (it's so useful I rarely take it off) and accidentally snagged a couple old fence posts wrapped in barbed wire that were in the brush next to where I was mowing. Didn't damage the tractor or the fruit tree I was mowing near and I used the grapple to pick the mess up and haul it off to be dealt with later. If I'd had the bucket on I might not have snagged it.

 

[davrow]

#1 - Rock buckets- if your work deals with lots of big rocks then a bucket isn't useless. I'll admit that I have yet to hear of any folks here having such a dedicated need (never, however, say never).

#2 - Protruding lower tines (that's what my EA grapple has) works for light roots and brush digging; as to the value of an "L" Bottom, "firewood" could be many things, same with "trees"- I've picked up massive tree trunks that would readily be grab-able was a clamshell grapple. If one has different tasks and only one tool then that one tool will have compromises.

#3. - If you grab up a bunch of brush a wider grapple is absolutely better. And, a wider grapple allows one to snag stuff to the periphery (of the wheels): I can more readily snag blackberry vines as I mow along- with a narrower grapple I'd have to push my wheels further into the brush (and if the blackberries are growing up/on a fence the wheels cannot go to far over else I'd be hitting the fence!). NOTE: I had my pallet forks on while mowing recently (I was combining tasks- picking up and dropping off my palletized firewood crates and mowing) and I was able to really snag some big blackberry vines (up in trees!).

#5 - A 3rd function is nice, but one has to justify the cost (how much is it really going to be used?). I plumbed hydraulics off my rear remotes; I use my full-detent ports as that allows me to just pop the control lever and the grapple opens or closes allowing me to more quickly free up my right hand (of course, I also have to pop the lever back into the neutral position as soon as the jaws get clamped down).

It's mentioned that dual lids are best. I'm not in total agreement. My grapple has a single lid and I have found no instance in which I have felt a dual lid would have performed the task signficantly better than a single: I've done things with a single lid that were likely better performed by a single than a double. I picked a single lid because it's less complex- only one set of hoses and one hydraulic cylinder to have issues with.

Good points all, DieselBound. We have to remember to keep our own needs in mind... TBN is a great resource, but my needs here in the desert do not match the needs of people with trees, for instance. Generalizations, such as mine, must always be considered "one user's opinions" with care taken to match their circumstances with one's own. :thumbsup:

 

[oosik]

I chose my grapple - Land Pride SGC1560 - because its a rock & root grapple - its exceedingly heavy duty - its the same width(approximately) as my front tires - it was sold by and would be serviced by the same dealer that sold me my Kubota - it was installed by the Kubota dealer.

- rock and root grapple.......I move lots of large rocks and use the grapple to move large chunks of my Ponderosa pine. I have basically zero brush, debris, etc - therefor no need for a long tined brush and debris grapple.

- its exceedingly heavy duty...... weighs 820 pounds. My tractor will lift this grapple plus 3300 pounds - - providing I have the cojones.

- same width as my front tires......... no real reason - I don't see any reason for anything wider than 60 inches. Its not a brush grapple.

- sold, installed & serviced by my Kubota dealer - convenience. I've had it four plus years now - been unable to damage it, no need for dealer service either.

 

[oosik]

View attachment 556500View attachment 556501 Sometime it makes me scratch my head. ANYHOW - my grapple and the one thing a lot of folks forget - a little protection against limbs, roots, stobs and all that goes "bump" in the night.

 

[handcuff]

My tractor has taken longer to get in than expected (new ETA is 2nd week of July), which has given me the chance to continue to research grapples. That's both a blessing and a curse, considering my OCD analysis paralysis.

I'm using the grapple for brush, logs and firewood much more than for digging roots. As such, i have been concerned with tine spacing and the stuff I'm grabbing 'dropping through' the bottom.

In looking at what most people went with for my type needs, it seems that they like the flat bottom style. However, I'm trying to figure out why you guys have gone with a brush grapple vs. a rock (closer tine) grapple. I'm coming from a place of ignorance, so please help to educate me before I purchase.

What are the benefits/problems of these two models:

The 'close tine' version - a 'rock' grapple


...and a ~8 inch width between tines


Thanks again for the help. I'm looking to have a decision made by end of week, and put in an order.

Thanks,
-Scott

 

[ericm979]

I find that small < 9" firewood rounds are not easy to handle with my EA wicked grapple. They wedge in the tines or fall through or fall out. Logs are no problem, it's when cut to firewood length that they become more difficult.

 

[Xfaxman]

------------------------------------------------

What are the benefits/problems of these two models:

The 'close tine' version - a 'rock' grapple
View attachment 560186

...and a ~8 inch width between tines
View attachment 560187

Thanks again for the help. I'm looking to have a decision made by end of week, and put in an order.

Thanks,
-Scott

The close tine version would be a little heavier, that may not matter depending on your lifting capacity.

My L bottom grapple tines are 9 inches apart, usually not a problem, but I have considered removable inserts like EA uses so that I could pick up smaller rocks when needed.

 

[handcuff]

My L bottom grapple tines are 9 inches apart, usually not a problem, but I have considered removable inserts like EA uses so that I could pick up smaller rocks when needed.

That's the concern, exactly. I appreciate your experienced feedback.

The weight is about 75 lbs greater, but I'm trying to see what else I may be missing. My lifting capacity is about 2,500#, so I{'m thinking I should be OK.