What's It Worth Thread

Mark @ Everlast · Jun 25, 2014

Yeah, but parts...plus the fact he has already bought.

woodlandfarms · Jun 26, 2014

I have a old Sears / BS Tiller that I just could not get the carb right on anymore. Picked up a HF Chonda and couldn't be happier. It is not a stunning engine, but it starts on first pull and dropped right in. Might be a swap for you instead of chasing parts.

SoGeorgia · Jun 26, 2014

woodlandfarms said:
I have a old Sears / BS Tiller that I just could not get the carb right on anymore. Picked up a HF Chonda and couldn't be happier. It is not a stunning engine, but it starts on first pull and dropped right in. Might be a swap for you instead of chasing parts.

How ironic, I was pulling in to HF when you sent this!! That being said, from everything I've heard, those Chondas are excellent engines.. The only problem is the largest (that I know of) is 13HP and the Briggs on this welder is 16HP.. I don't know if the 13HP would suffice.. then I would have to somehow retrofit the auto-idler...

Trust me, I've thought about it.

SoGeorgia · Jul 3, 2014

UPDATE: I took the cover off last weekend and vacuumed/blew it out and generally cleaned it up on the inside. Checked the brushes and slip rings and thank the Lord they look perfect. Replaced the starter solenoid and choke cable...AAAAND the entire carburetor..

I had bought a carb kit, tore into it to rebuild and then realized that the seat was shot and I couldn't remove it. I tried drilling it out but nothing helped. Went to the hardware store to see if they had a tap the same size as the new seat but no luck.. I then asked if they had an old carb (they have a large small engine repair business as well) and they didn't... BUT they had a brand new carb in the box on the shelf. Well, I had already priced a new one online at 215.00 bucks!! so I wasn't too keen on spending that.. long story short, it had been on the shelf so long he gave it to me for 50 bucks! So I've got a new carb now on it.. good news is that it cranked... bad news is that it's flooding out.. I think I know the problem and will be tearing into it tomorrow morning. Also need to take the starter off, the gear is hanging up.

More info and pics tomorrow.

ThomasH · Jul 3, 2014

SoGeorgia said:
The only problem is the largest (that I know of) is 13HP and the Briggs on this welder is 16HP.. I don't know if the 13HP would suffice..

I would be pretty careful about comparing horsepower on replacement motors. Gas engines seem to be similar to the claims made about horsepower on shop vacs, it's downright miraculous that a "6.5 horsepower" shop vac can plug into an ordinary 120 volt outlet and draw only 12 amps.

You might look at how many feet/pounds of torque and how many CC they put out. Those specs will be much more realistic.

SoGeorgia · Jul 6, 2014

After fighting with carb problems the good news is that the generator works and it welds!! The bad news is that the auto idler doesn't seem to work and the high idle is too low (2800-3000rpm). A/C output is only around 95volts.

I checked voltage betweens wires 213 and 5 (using schematic for IM308) the best I could and the voltage varied.. it would go up to 11volts or so, then drop back down.. it was all over the place, but then again, it was hard for me to check with it running. I also checked voltage between wires 3 and 5 and the AC kept shocking me but it had voltage! So the 2 places where it's supposed to have voltage, it does.

I've set the low idle to approx 1850rpm against the stop and adjusted the idle solenoid approx 1/16" from the paddle.. but it never idles down... also, I don't know how to adjust the high idle to 3600rpm. I'm not 100% sure the linkage is all correct.. the linkage from the paddle arm to the the throttle has a VERY fine spring (like fine as a hair) that wraps almost the entire linkage wire but it's broken at the top end and I'm not sure where it use to go or what function it served.

Here are some pics. In the first picture, you can see the throttle linkage and the spring that wraps it if you look close.

Any ideas on how to get the auto-idle working and setting the high idle to 3600?

PILOON · Jul 6, 2014

The fine spring you refer to is generally meant to prevent the slop between the connection points of the particular rod that it is wrapped around.
Simply elongate it a bit and hook it in the notches near the rod. The slop is enough to cause RPM variations that you don't want.
Also different holes are what will determine the RPM ranges and or response.

SoGeorgia · Jul 7, 2014

PILOON said:
The fine spring you refer to is generally meant to prevent the slop between the connection points of the particular rod that it is wrapped around.
Simply elongate it a bit and hook it in the notches near the rod. The slop is enough to cause RPM variations that you don't want.
Also different holes are what will determine the RPM ranges and or response.

Well don't I feel dumb.. looking at it I said to myself that it could only attach to the two ends of the linkage but I didn't put 2+2 together to realize it was to prevent slop. Thanks man!

SoGeorgia · Jul 8, 2014

I found the problem with the auto-idler.. The solenoid is toast.. tested continuity and there was none.. removed the wire wrap and one wire was completely gone.. the second one crumbled away in my fingers.. they deteriorated all the way into the solenoid and after taking it apart I can't even find one end of the wire.. I've got a "fix" on its way.. if it doesn't work I'll try to rewire this old coil.

SoGeorgia · Jul 21, 2014

It's all working now. I found an electromagnet of close to the same specs and mocked up a new idler bracket. Auto-idler works and I've got the high-idle set to 3600rpm.. Front receptacles putting out 117volts.