Whats the difference ?

[frank_f15]

chuck: not sure what your problem is , but i don't think it is glow plugs or a bad switch, if iwas then why does it start as soon as u put jumper cables to it? could it be that your charging system is not up to snuff, and when it is cold there is enot enough juice in the battery to start? and when it is warm or you restart shortly after you shut it down, there is enough power in the battery to start a warm engine? just a thought.

 

[ChuckinVA]

Frank,

I think you may have it covered pretty well. The only problem is I may not get a chance to check out that theory until it gets cold again !

I was thinking that since the glow plug indicator light didn't show up on the dash, that maybe the switch that locks out the starting when the shuttle is not in neutral or when the transmission is in gear may be worn.

I just need to get back over there and get the battery installed and try again. It may work fine now.

Thanks for your imput !

 

[Soundguy]

Check the electrical connections: at the battery, at the starter, at the frame grounding point, and at solonoid.

Check for corrosion, or for loose connections.

Also.. will your battery go dead after a while of just sitting in the tractor ( short ) ?

Try a load test. Either buy a cheap load tester, or run the tractor by your usual car mechanic and have it tested on the machine.... Or pull the alternator off and take it to a shop to be tested.
An inexpensive automotive cigarette lighter style load tester will be sufficient.. just alagator clip it up.. or install a cig lighter outlet like I did.. for aux power, etc.

A VOM can also be used but takes more time, and observance. Take a voltage reading before starting, watch the needle/display during start, and whatch while running, with no electrical devices on.... voltage shoul come up slightly above level it was when off before start. turn on your lights for a load... voltage could waver a second or so, reacting to the load... but should still read between 12.6 and 13.6.. up to 14.5 max.. or you have a problem in the charging system.

Run with a load for a while, then check the voltage again... if your charging system is week.. the voltage may start to slowly drop over time. Also check voltage at lower and higher engine rpm... significant voltage variance at different rpm also means a problem. ( Some voltage change will be okay.. .6 volt, etc... ).

Also.. check the voltage regulato connections.. especially it's ground reference... a bad ground reference will really shorten the life span of the regulator, and the alternator.

Chris / Soundguy

 

[ChuckinVA]

Thanks Chris,

I'm going to the property tomorrow and I'll take my meter with me. I've got the battery on the charger tonite so it will be good and fresh tomorrow when I put it back in the tractor. I did take the battery to the dealer and they did a load test on it and it tested OK. Just was a little on the weak side. They suggested I charge it and put it back in. I'll check the voltage before I start it and then after and see what I get. I'm working on the road ( pulling ditches and reshaping places for water to run off ) so I'll get a chance to run it for a while. I'll let you know how it goes.

Chuck

 

[Soundguy]

Keep in mind that the battery charger at your house will probably charge the battery up to a higher voltage level than the tractors charging system. Go ahead and make the baseline test before you start anyway.. but if the battery is charged higher than 13.8 or so, it will drop down under load , and may not charge up to that level in the tractor.
After starting, apply a load ( electrical ) and check the voltage, after a few minutes, it should equal out if the charging system is ok. After a little while... 10-20 minutes of electrical load, check again. The voltage should be somewhere between 12.6 and 13.? and should be stable... not dropping. It will be easier to tell on a digital vom, with 2 or 3 decimal places.. but analog will suffice.

Soundguy

 

[ChuckinVA]

I went to the property today and wouldn't you know, my meter battery was dead ! The tractor started fine. I did see that the ground cable ( which is new ) was attached to the tractor at a location that had some surface rust on it. I took it off and scraped the area with a small file I had in my tool box and put it back on. Could have been a part of the problem but maybe not. Any way, the tractor started fine. I ran it long enough to get my arms sunburned. ( I might look at one of those sun shades after all ) and shut it down. It started right back up, no problem. I'll be back over this weekend with a fresh battery for my meter (digital). Hopefully I won't have any more trouble with it. As long as I ran it today, If the charging system is functional, It should still be charged. I'll keep you posted.

 

[dthomas]

Chuck,

I was just wondering how you came out with your tractor problem. Is it cranking okay now? If so, what did you find to be the trouble maker???

Donald

 

[ChuckinVA]

Donald,

I'm still having the problem. The battery is fine. Charging system is working fine. I'm beginning to think it may be the key switch. I unfortunately have not had much time to get over there and work on it as I had to cut grass last time I was there and except for pushing some brush into a pile with the loader I didn't do anything with the tractor. The tractor started after several attempts of turning the key back to the preheat position and back to the start position ( the dash lights light up and the guages work ) eventually it will turn over and then takes off like it should. Then I can shut it down and it will start the first time, no problem. Plus the dash light will light up for the glow plugs ( this doesn't light when I initialy try to start it ). The ambient air temperature doesn't seem to have any bearing on it. I'm planning to spend several days at the property Memorial week end so may I can get it figured out then. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for asking.

 

[spencer200]

Chuck

If you do decide it is the key switch. What you are describing is leading me to think that it is. Take your serial number with you when you go to the dealers for a new switch. There are 3 different possibilities and it depends on what year it is. first one part number sba385201250 was used from years 1987 thru 7/31/92. The second choice was used 8/1/92 thru 12/31/1994 this is part number Sba385201700. The third choice used from 1/1/1995 thru current production is part number Sba385201890.

 

[ChuckinVA]

Thanks Rich,

I went by the dealer to price out the switch, alternator, and starter as these were my strongest possibilities as to what is wrong. The dealer indicated there was more than one option as well.

I was by the property late this afternoon and it was raining cats and dog ( I almost stepped in a poodle ) so I didn't get a chance to look it over very well. It wouldn't start at first but after I let it sit for a while It started right up the first time I turned the switch.

How would I ring out the switch , on or off the tractor ?

I still have never received my manuals from my dealer. I really appreciate your help with the others. Looks like I need to invest in a tech manual. Can you reccommend a publication ?

The dealer said the switch was about $51.00. I don't have any experience buying parts but at least it wasn't $100.00 !