What's the smallest practical HP/Tractor you'd consider?

[IslandTractor]

This was his 1st post:



He's not going to spear hay on 15 hp.. in fact.. in anything CUT.. utility or better for rounds is the safe way to go.

I get away with using a beefy 'cut' sized 50 hp antique to do rounds with.. ( ford 850 ).. and have a friend that does it with a similar tractor ( 841 ).. but don't reccomend it with anything under say.. ford 4000 3 cyl when recomending it to others..

soundguy
soundguy

I understand your post but he clarified after the original post that this is not really 100 acres of farmland. Still, you are certainly right about round bales and 15hp tractors!! Seems he is acquiring some land and thinking about starting a ?small cattle operation. Doesn't sound like he has many specifics yet and ?any cattle to date.

I thought round bales were about 1000lbs and up to 2000lbs max. I'd not want to stack them three high with my 41hp CUT but I could certainly lift them and manage to move them around.

 

[candersen10]

Most CUTs are really too small for round bales. Figure between 1000-1600 pounds for most round bales. A local farmer near me was completely paralyzed handling a round bale on an older, lighter tractor. He lifted the bale up and it rolled back over the front end loader and onto him. I would say that if you need to move round bales for certain you need at least the top end of the Compact Utility Tractor spectrum (Kubota 4630, large boomers, etc). A Skid steer might also be a good idea instead (better for post holes because you can generate downward pressure and safer because it has rops and fops). You also want to make sure that your rear wheels are filled or at least that you have proper ballast. Don't get something that doesn't have a roll bar and seatbelt either. Farming is already dangerous enough.

 

[Soundguy]

I understand your post but he clarified after the original post that this is not really 100 acres of farmland. Still, you are certainly right about round bales and 15hp tractors!! Seems he is acquiring some land and thinking about starting a ?small cattle operation. Doesn't sound like he has many specifics yet and ?any cattle to date.

I thought round bales were about 1000lbs and up to 2000lbs max. I'd not want to stack them three high with my 41hp CUT but I could certainly lift them and manage to move them around.

41 hp is edging in on the large side of cut, and the small side of UT.

I don't doubt the machine lifts them.. it's the weight on smaller tractors that can be a problem. Even on my 50 hp ford 850.. I have to have a weight tub in the rear, plus loaded rears.. even then.. though i have the hp.. I'm still on the edge of being too light and small.

ford 8xx and ford 6xx are more or less the same size / weight.. 6xx is built around a 33 hp engine while the 8xx are buitl around a 50hp engine.. 8xx has slightly heavier rear.. but that's about it.. still not much bigger tractor than an 8n all in all. If I moved rounds all day.. I'd bump over and use a spear on my 5000 for ease and safety. but since i only move about 1 per week on average.. the 850 gets the task. I use a ratchet strap to keep the bal in the bucket and to keep it from coming back on me if I have to lift and drop over a fence.. etc..

soundguy

 

[charleyfarmall]

This is a good thread with good advice. GaryCrowell has it pegged.

I have been farming 100 acre farm for 3 years. 50 acres of fields. I have disced, planted hay, cut and baled hay, planted vegetables, and done a lot of mowing. I square bale, not round, 30 acres twice a year.

I have been doing it with a 50Hp 4wd compact utility. I have enough horsepower. Not enough tractor. With weight, and filled tires I have about 5500 pounds of tractor. I am looking at a full size tractor, with 75hp ( engine, not PTO). I could get by with 60hp with the implements I use but I want some reserve.

Consider the following:
1. Terrain. I have rolling terrain and some hills. 4wd is really needed. Plus, the heavier front axle is MUCH better for loader work.

2. Wheelbase - longer wheelbase is more stable, better for mowing and traveling across fields when working. My wheelbsse is 71.5" and at 5mph while cutting hay the bounce gets annoying very quickly. When I spend 4 hours at a time cutting, raking, or tedding hay it kills me. On the other hand, around the barn it's great because I have good manuverability.

3. Tractor weight - Farming, and on rolling terrain, more is better, to a point. Moving round bales on side inclines, it helps. The ride will be smoother. Pulling loaded trailers and wagons - smaller tractors like mine do fine on level ground pulling a loaded hay wagon. BUT: a loaded hay wagon for me is 5,000 pounds, as much as the tractor and it will push the tractor down any substantial hill and is dangerous and can kill you or at least ruin your day, tractor, and underwear. While I think 10,000 pounds of tractor is too much, 7,000+ is what my farm needs.

4. Cabs are nice. Especially if you are sitting on the tractor for long periods. However, it is a pain in the neck when you are getting on and off all the time. A sun shade is often the better approach and will cost a lot less.

5. Current vs future needs. You will do well with 45-60hp and 4wd. If you think you will want to bale ( round bale) then you need to look at hp and balers carefully. A few round balers can get by on 45hp at the PTO but most need a lot more, and a 75hp utility tractor is needed.

We will keep our CUT because it gets a lot done efficiently, but we will be getting a larger tractor for hay. You should look at the specifcations for the Farmall 45-55 and compare others to it as it is a good size tractor ( i am not actually advocating this machine, but I know that it's size and loader capacity are excellent - I have no idea what they cost).

Last, what is your budget? I think the best value is going to be Kioti, but it really depends on your dealer. Look at recent used tractors. A common tractor here it the NH TN75 which is maybe more than you want, but is a very good tractor.

Let us know as you get closer!!

 

[Egon]

In Alberta there is an acquaintance who farms 160 acres. [Considered very very small farm] He has a 60 Hp. and a 150Hp. tractor that are used for cultivation. No baling, handling of hay or cattle involved. Just cultivation, seeding and grain harvesting equipment. There are no three point implements involved.

He considers the 60 Hp. pretty well useless except for pulling diamond harrows or handling grain augers. The 150 hp. tractor is considered just adequate for tillage implements.

So, there may just be a wide range of choice for a tractor to service 100 + acres. It would seem different locations have different norms for what is adequate and considered acceptable!

Crop type and field size and terrain may be major considerations.

Considering there are different types of agricultural areas the availability of local used tractors and machinery may also vary! For one looking for a tractor this may be the crux of the matter.

Attached are some picture taken at a an Implement dealership from the area where I grew up. In this area the smaller used tractors are not readily available. In fact some dealerships with tractors that will max out in the hundred horsepower range have trouble surviving despite the fact they offer an excellent piece of machinery.


First picture would show a typical chores tractor. many are much larger.
The second picture shows some typical cultivating implements.
The third picture is a typical pulling tractor. Note the lack of three point hitch. When this fellow gets a proper seed train hooked up it may take him ten acres to turn around!

I was gonna attach a picture of my toy but decided against it.

 

[pitt_md]

I wouldn't even consider under 50hp.. and preferable something in the 70's.. or higher.

100 hp would find lots of work on a farm that size..

soundguy

Glad someone finally said this. It's fine to consider the smallest tractor for doing what you mention. The problem boils down to $$$ and time. What is your time worth? How many people helping you? If you have no time limits (read no 9-5 job) then as many have said you COULD get by with 50hp utility class. If on the other hand if time is a consideration a little bigger unit that can handle larger implements can really be a plus.

Stay away from some of the stuff mentioned like 20-30 hp machines. With the work you will be getting into you will tear them up.

If I were you I would look at some used ag machines. Less up front money, more weight/power per dollar.

 

[candersen10]

I have 150 acres, 110 of which are set up as a pastured livestock operation with 20 black angus cattle, about 60 sheep, and around 40 gotes currently (we are transitioning to dairy eventually and easing into it slowly). As far as equipment goes, we have a 6430 premium which we use for tillage on our other 40 acres which are entirely devoted to vegetable produciton. We also have a JD 5325, a NH TN75, and a JD CT332 track skid steer. I would say that a tractor around the 5325/TN75 size (between 60 and 80 HP/ between 5,000 to 6,000 pounds unballasted) is probably your best bet as an all around machine. My 5325 can pull a 10 foot disc (it struggles but will do it), a three bottom moldboard plow, a 10 foot mower, and will also handle round bales. I am purchasing hay making equipment soon and will probably run it on the 6430 because it is nicer to have a cab, but regardless, the 5325 can handle smaller mower conditioners and balers.

I think a machine like the TN75 or the JD 5325, outfitted with a front end loader, would probably be your best bet. Both machines are rugged, comfortable, and powerful for their size. I highly recommend Fops if you are handling round bales, especially if you are stacking them pretty high.

 

[slowzuki]

Nothing to do with the size of the tractor. Lots of guys have been killed on big tractors doing the same thing. There is a nice picture of that exact accident on most front end loaders sold today. Rops won't help you either as its too far back. Its also a danger while handling logs on a set of forks. Self-leveling loaders don't have as much of a problem with it as they don't roll back much when lifted.

Use a spear or grab while handling rounds, or if you need to handle from the side use a grapple.

Most CUTs are really too small for round bales. Figure between 1000-1600 pounds for most round bales. A local farmer near me was completely paralyzed handling a round bale on an older, lighter tractor. He lifted the bale up and it rolled back over the front end loader and onto him.

 

[patrick_g]

OK, lots of advice much based on speculation and assumed facts not in evidence. Here are a few actual experience based words.

For everyone who suggested over 40 HP as a definite minimum for someone with less than 100 usable acres to use to handle hay (not baling, just handling) for running a few cattle, how is it that my under 40HP Kubota (Grand L-4610HSTC hydrostatic cab tractor with about 39 HP or a tad less due to HST) has served me extremely well for almost 8 years including stacking/unstacking 1000 LB + round bales three rows high and doing most nearly everything else I needed done on 160 acres??????????

I have a 6 ft brush hog that I use to cut trees up to about 4-5 inches in diameter, I have a very HD box blade with hydraulic raise and lower scarifiers (cutting blade on back side too to allow its use as a mini-dozer), I have a FEL that has quick-attach to easily set up as hay spike, pallet forks, or bucket. For the 3PH I have a disk, back blade, rake, PHD, cement mixer, log skidding accessory, and box blade.

I wonder how this complement of implements matches up with the OP's needs. Maybe he can comment on what implements he needs that I don't have that require higher HP capability or more lifting capability than my tractor has.

As for the DEFINITELY OVER 40HP camp, maybe some of you guys can explain the miracle of my success with less than 40 HP (not much, just a little less.) Especially consider that I am not a tractor operating virtuoso and yet somehow with a too small and way under powered tractor I manage to do all that I do on my 160 acres Of those recommending DEFINITELY over 40 HP, how many have owned or operated a tractor comparable to mine and what were its major shortcomings that prevent recommending it?

I realize not everyone's needs are like mine and that not everyone's experiences are like mine but I fail to see how someone setting out to do sort of what I am doing but with significantly less acreage and fewer cattle would need so very much more tractor. Maybe some of you more experienced guys can explain that. Preferably not in terms of tasks the OP hasn't indicated a need for.

Pat

 

[slowzuki]

Pat the thing is the Kubota Grand L's are on the large end of compacts. You can get 40 hp compacts that weigh half what yours does. I use my Kubota L5030HSTC for haying both small squares and small rounds on my 30 acres, a neighbours 15 acres, and another neighbours 60 acres.

The big but in here is time. If I didn't work full time the 5030 would be my last tractor, but I'm moving to larger equipment to speed it up.

I just moved to an 18 ft tedder, next up is a disc mower to replace the old haybine, after that, my 10 ft rake will need to get bigger, after that my bale handling and storage will need looked after.

I plan to move to a 65-90 hp main tractor and have a smaller 2wd as my backup or raking tracter.