What's up with my Solenoid?

[redharley]

could you use a test light to check for voltage at seleniod when this happens? I'd lean more with what the last poster said about fuel. I have seen several BX's and kubota ZTR's with this fuel tank problem, only way to check is when it is doing it remove fuel line where it comes out of tank and check flow. You would be surprised what can be in there. pc's of plastic from when the tank was made,pc's of plastic out of your fuel can,or just dirt,leaf pc's, ect. good luck

 

[Keoke]

Hi, a solenoid is a magnetic coil with a hollow center used for mechanical work.
All coils flowing current when turned off will create a spike voltage that is usually many times higher then circuit voltage.
This spike (hi voltage) can very quickly burn an open in any coils winding.
If your solenoid is sitting there chattering on and off rapidly it is not going to last very long.
You need to find why the solenoid is chattering. The most common, but not the only, reason for this is a low voltage being applied across the solenoid windings.
This low voltage is usually caused by high resistance or overload on the plus side or a high resistance on the negative side.
The reason for the chatter is that when circuit is open (no load) voltage input to solenoid is high because of no load (voltmeter will show normal). However, when solenoid comes on and pulls current input voltage will drop and spring (now stronger then magnet) will take over opening the solenoid.
When solenoid goes open (off) voltage will rise again (no current flow) and solenoid will pull down again. This fluctuating hi/lo operating voltage is what the chattering is all about.
Old timers remembering chattering of old Ford relays will have a feel for this.
If one had a dime for every old Ford relay that was replaced when it chattered he would be a millionaire.
Hope all of this long winded stuff make sense and helps.

PS. Spiking voltage can be nullified by placing a high voltage diode across the solenoid with cathode end to coil B+. This will run spike voltage to gnd instead of coil windings.

cheers,

 

[Lockport]

I had sputtering problem because of scum/sludge in the fuel tank. The tractor would run fine on flat surfaces then on inclines the junk in the tank would inhibit fuel flow from the tank causing the tractor to sputter and sometimes stall all together. Just a thought.......

This was exactly my initial interpretation. It was about this time that I happened to open the hood and witness the chattering behaviour of the solenoid. Although the definition of sludge correlates with the symptoms, I will 1st address the solenoid and see if it still bogs down on the 'illside.

I am thinking that my problem might exist at the seat switch. I have the Woods BH6000 and the swivel seat modification. Ergo, there is no interruption of the engine when I arise from the seat. However, there still is some sort of sporadic activation of the switch I have witnessed at times and am not quite certain what is happening there. I will find a way to lock the circuit closed and see what happens.

Otherwise, Keoke's breakdown has many merits. I have modifications to my wiring and will start by tracing the wiring on that circuit. I have a marine grade cigarette lighter adaptor mounter in the rear fender and wired to the under seat, factory work light tap, which is the same circuit as the solenoid. At one point I tried to put a switch on that circuit at my modified and dust proof fuse box, only to find that unless the switch was on, I couldn't shut off the tractor!

Once again, thank you all for the suggestions. Sometimes I wonder where I would get my tractor answers if not for the great community here at Tractorbynet!