What's your winter projects...?
- Thread starter RexB
- Start date
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Dmace
Elite Member
Holy Crap, that bike looks good! I also wanted to find an old Ninja or CBR to restore or a salvage bike to make into a weekend racer. Where did you find all the old fairings and parts? Or did it come with it all?
DK35vince
Super Member
Thanks Derek.
All the fairings, fuel tank, and seat were there with the machine. The upper and lower fairing and the front fender were scrached up pretty bad and much of it needed repainted, but other than that they were in good condition.
Parts like brake/clutch levers, brake pads, filters, Etc. I ordered from Dennis Kirk.
Engine parts, seals, gaskets, rear fender, master cylinder rebuild kits, service manuals, carborator parts, Jet Kit, Etc. I ordered through Bike Bandit.
I found a rear brake master cylinder and caliper that I need on E-bay.
I was concerned about finding parts for an older bike like this when I started the project. Turned out to be a non issue finding/getting parts.
All the fairings, fuel tank, and seat were there with the machine. The upper and lower fairing and the front fender were scrached up pretty bad and much of it needed repainted, but other than that they were in good condition.
Parts like brake/clutch levers, brake pads, filters, Etc. I ordered from Dennis Kirk.
Engine parts, seals, gaskets, rear fender, master cylinder rebuild kits, service manuals, carborator parts, Jet Kit, Etc. I ordered through Bike Bandit.
I found a rear brake master cylinder and caliper that I need on E-bay.
I was concerned about finding parts for an older bike like this when I started the project. Turned out to be a non issue finding/getting parts.
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Mastertech
Bronze Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2005
- Messages
- 78
WOW!!! What a transformation. What will top speed be?
DK35vince
Super Member
Top speed.
I really don't know. It should be capable of putting the MPH numbers right up there.
My wife would take it away from me if I ever tryed to find out top speed and I need to keep my license so I will probably never know.
I really don't know. It should be capable of putting the MPH numbers right up there.
My wife would take it away from me if I ever tryed to find out top speed and I need to keep my license so I will probably never know.
Mastertech
Bronze Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2005
- Messages
- 78
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Messages
- 15,802
- Location
- Prudence Island, RI
- Tractor
- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
DK35vince said:
You da man! Drive safely.
Those rice rockets can be dangerous. (Spoken by a sedate former beemer owner
)
Gittyup
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 3,145
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
- Tractor
- Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739
Very cool projects, guys. I think I'll add mesh to my grill guard too!
My winter project has been buying and fitting a CMI trailer with hydraulic dump with QC's that match my CK25 rear remotes (1/2" Parkers).
When I designed the cylinder plumbing, I wanted to use the dump trailer to connect to the both my John Deere 425 garden tractor as well as my Kioti. The CK already had 1/2" rear remotes for my backhoe. So the trailer got 3/8" hose adapted up to 1/2" Male QC's. The JD hydraulics patch is 1/4" QC. So these were adapted up to 1/2" Female QC's, just like on the Kioti.
Putting a cylinder on the stock CMI trailer is tough, when considering that I want it to work with the relatively low pressure of the JD (1000 PSI). I needed as much vertical angle as possible, and also wanted it as far forward as was practical. But, the tongue extends all the way to where I have mounted the bottom of my cylinder. I tried and tried to put the cylinder more foward, but because of the tongue, I couldn't get a steep enough angle. There is also very little clearance. I'm not sure one could get a cylinder under there bigger than 2.5". I used 2" x 18" x 1.25". I thought seriously about raising the dump bed height above the base so that I could get more angle. Then I just surrendered and modified the lame jack dump that I had wrongly bought.
The trailer is the 6 foot version, which I bought thinking it would dump more steeply than the 7 footer. I ended up actually moving the pivot point forward to give me as much rear hang over as possible. I simply drilled 2 new holes. This will help the JD work more effectively.
This is my first every welding. Not so pretty, but I think strong enough. It was fun. I built the pivot brackets using 2.5" angle 1/4" thick. Then I added an addition crossmember to help make it stronger and more rigid. I added clipst to the front of the trialer to hold the hose if not using the hydraulic hookup. I still have to prime and paint. But is now fully functional.
Should serve me well. Calculated vertical push for the angle applied at 1000 psi (JD) is about 800 lbs, at 2500 PSI (Kioti) it's about 2000 lbs. Full force of the cylinder at 1000 PSI is around 2900 lbs. That is why the angle is so critical. For this trailer to get more angle, you'd have to either lower the cylinder to the point that it would be vulnerable to ground contact, or raise the dump bed higher above the frame. I thought about a shorter cylinder. Could get a steeper angle, but not as much travel. I wanted it to dump very steeply, else what's the point.
The top mount, I think you can see, mostly. It's 2.5" angle, 1/4" thick facing the rear with two pivot points cut from the same 2.4" angle welded to its backside. That assembly was then welded to the 2 longitudinal members of the trailer. I then added an extra crossmember, and tacked it to the pivot bracket outsides.
I should have taken some pics of the bottom connection, and I will when I can get some daylight. But, basically, I used the brackets that came with the crappy manual jack lift that CMI sells. I cut them off and redrilled to get them as far forward as possible. I used the 3/4" pivot pin that also came with the jack solution. The cylinder, however, has 1" cross tubes. So I installed a brass sleeve bushing. To keep the cylinder from getting too off-center on the long bottom rod, and to make sure the bushing stayed in place, I added 2 short pieces of plain 3/4" pipe.
If I were making my own bottom bracket from scratch, instead of being lazy like I did by using what I already had, I would have used heavier material with welded on pipes that centered the cylinder.
A 16" stroke would work better, for the location that I chose, and a 2.5" cylinder might just barely fit. The bigger diameter would add more power, and the shorter length would maximize the angle. You'd give up few degrees of dump. But, it would still be plenty steep.
Last pic of new steel bracket for the JD425 patch panel. Much stronger and nicer looking (except for my marker paint) than the aluminum one.
Plan to paint the whole trailer JD green, stain the boards, and add a heavy duty linoleum liner to floor. I would rather use polypropylene or something. But, I already have the flooring, and it is very heavy weight.
Next big tractor project is installing 20' of 24" culvert pipe, then an 18' x 25' leanto on the back of my barn. I'll have a busy spring.
My winter project has been buying and fitting a CMI trailer with hydraulic dump with QC's that match my CK25 rear remotes (1/2" Parkers).
When I designed the cylinder plumbing, I wanted to use the dump trailer to connect to the both my John Deere 425 garden tractor as well as my Kioti. The CK already had 1/2" rear remotes for my backhoe. So the trailer got 3/8" hose adapted up to 1/2" Male QC's. The JD hydraulics patch is 1/4" QC. So these were adapted up to 1/2" Female QC's, just like on the Kioti.
Putting a cylinder on the stock CMI trailer is tough, when considering that I want it to work with the relatively low pressure of the JD (1000 PSI). I needed as much vertical angle as possible, and also wanted it as far forward as was practical. But, the tongue extends all the way to where I have mounted the bottom of my cylinder. I tried and tried to put the cylinder more foward, but because of the tongue, I couldn't get a steep enough angle. There is also very little clearance. I'm not sure one could get a cylinder under there bigger than 2.5". I used 2" x 18" x 1.25". I thought seriously about raising the dump bed height above the base so that I could get more angle. Then I just surrendered and modified the lame jack dump that I had wrongly bought.
The trailer is the 6 foot version, which I bought thinking it would dump more steeply than the 7 footer. I ended up actually moving the pivot point forward to give me as much rear hang over as possible. I simply drilled 2 new holes. This will help the JD work more effectively.
This is my first every welding. Not so pretty, but I think strong enough. It was fun. I built the pivot brackets using 2.5" angle 1/4" thick. Then I added an addition crossmember to help make it stronger and more rigid. I added clipst to the front of the trialer to hold the hose if not using the hydraulic hookup. I still have to prime and paint. But is now fully functional.
Should serve me well. Calculated vertical push for the angle applied at 1000 psi (JD) is about 800 lbs, at 2500 PSI (Kioti) it's about 2000 lbs. Full force of the cylinder at 1000 PSI is around 2900 lbs. That is why the angle is so critical. For this trailer to get more angle, you'd have to either lower the cylinder to the point that it would be vulnerable to ground contact, or raise the dump bed higher above the frame. I thought about a shorter cylinder. Could get a steeper angle, but not as much travel. I wanted it to dump very steeply, else what's the point.
The top mount, I think you can see, mostly. It's 2.5" angle, 1/4" thick facing the rear with two pivot points cut from the same 2.4" angle welded to its backside. That assembly was then welded to the 2 longitudinal members of the trailer. I then added an extra crossmember, and tacked it to the pivot bracket outsides.
I should have taken some pics of the bottom connection, and I will when I can get some daylight. But, basically, I used the brackets that came with the crappy manual jack lift that CMI sells. I cut them off and redrilled to get them as far forward as possible. I used the 3/4" pivot pin that also came with the jack solution. The cylinder, however, has 1" cross tubes. So I installed a brass sleeve bushing. To keep the cylinder from getting too off-center on the long bottom rod, and to make sure the bushing stayed in place, I added 2 short pieces of plain 3/4" pipe.
If I were making my own bottom bracket from scratch, instead of being lazy like I did by using what I already had, I would have used heavier material with welded on pipes that centered the cylinder.
A 16" stroke would work better, for the location that I chose, and a 2.5" cylinder might just barely fit. The bigger diameter would add more power, and the shorter length would maximize the angle. You'd give up few degrees of dump. But, it would still be plenty steep.
Last pic of new steel bracket for the JD425 patch panel. Much stronger and nicer looking (except for my marker paint) than the aluminum one.
Plan to paint the whole trailer JD green, stain the boards, and add a heavy duty linoleum liner to floor. I would rather use polypropylene or something. But, I already have the flooring, and it is very heavy weight.
Next big tractor project is installing 20' of 24" culvert pipe, then an 18' x 25' leanto on the back of my barn. I'll have a busy spring.
Attachments
DK35vince
Super Member
Look at all that chrome.wallace said:
It will take you all winter just to polish all the chrome !!
