Wheel bearing grease

   / Wheel bearing grease #1  

roy49

New member
Joined
Apr 13, 2002
Messages
17
Can anyone recomend a good wheel bearing grease? I want to use the best available. I am not sure whether to use a regular grease or a synthetic.
Thanks
Roy /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #2  
Roy,
The Amsoil GLC grease is a synthetic that is excellent for wheel bearings. For bearings that are in occasional contact with water or wet grass, use the water resistant grease, GWR.

Dave
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #3  
I think Schaeffer's Lubricants makes the best grease and gear oil made. Schaeffer's is normally a wholesale or bulk sale only kind of company with a $250.00 minimum order.

If want to try one of the Schaeffer's products E-mail me and I'll hook you up with a great guy who will sell you individual items.
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #4  
There's also a Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Not easy to find but the synthetics have the property of being able to withstand higher temperatures. The best probably depends on your usage. If your bearing are going to be spending time under water then you'll want to go with something wash resistant as a previous poster said.

The question is: will a synthetic be as wash resistant as a grease that's designed for that purpose? A synthetic might not be the "best" grease for your usage. Like anything else it depends on how you're going to use it and how often you're going to service it. Buying a synthetic might be a waste of money.
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #5  
You want synthetic. As far as wet goes, no grease is going to do well after it mixes with water and I have not seen a grease that won't. Yeah, they're resistant, which means they'll mix with water, but will try not too. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Anyway, all bearing I've seen on late model equipment are well protected. If you submerge a hub, plan on pulling your bearings down and servicing them promptly. In the synthetics, all that I've used have been excellent. Just get pure synthetic and none of that mixed crap. Also, it's a much thinner consistency and kind of a pita to fill the hub halfway, but the mess is worthwhile. Good luck with whatever you choose. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #6  
Try this little back yard comparison of two greases ability to resist wash out or emulsification.

Put a small amount of grease #1 in the palm of your hand. With your index finger work the grease in a small circle with a trickle of water pouring over the area. Then repeat with the process with grease #2.

I have found with Schaeffer's ( I'm sure there are others ) its resistance to wash out and emulsification is exceptional. The reason its better is the grease base of aluminum complex. Most greases use lithium ( soap) as a base.

In fact to clean the Schaeffer's off your hand at the end of the experiment use some of that lithium grease.
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #7  
If we are talking about tractor wheel bearings here then heat is not an issue. Any good brand of water resistant wheel bearing grease that meets your tractors manufacturers specs will do fine. Just be sure to clean, repack and adjust at least once a year, more often if you get them in water much. Wheel bearings seem unfortunately to be one of the most neglected parts of a tractor.
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #8  
"Wheel bearings seem unfortunately to be one of the most neglected parts of a tractor."

This sort of sums up who has the old tractors. My Kubota (as well as most everyone else with compact 4WD tractors) does not use grease for any of the wheel bearings, just a continuous supply of oil. My International uses grease on the fronts only and it is necessary to repack and reseal the things every now and then.
 
   / Wheel bearing grease #9  
Yeah, I love old Iron. It will still be going long after the aluminum hydro's are sitting in a boneyard with the plastic fallen off of them and all of the electronics robbed off to keep other ones going.
Oh the newer 4WD are handy and fun, but in a tractor I like steel and simple mechanics. Easier to keep going.
Mine does qualify as a larger (40 hp/3800 lbs bare) CUT. Although it is a 1968 model.
 

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