Loader Wheel Horse Loader, install on Yanmar

[mtm88001]

How's the loader coming along? So far looks great:thumbsup:

Slow, that crazy place called work wants me to come in each day and stay for an inordinate amount of time....

I am hoping to get the frame completed by the weekend and the hydraulics should go quickly. I'll post some more pics as soon as I get some where.

Thanks to all who have chimed in with suggestions and advice.

One question still unanswered is whether my loader valve is open centered or not. Anyway to tell before cranking the tractor?

 

[winston1]

Slow, that crazy place called work wants me to come in each day and stay for an inordinate amount of time....

I am hoping to get the frame completed by the weekend and the hydraulics should go quickly. I'll post some more pics as soon as I get some where.

Thanks to all who have chimed in with suggestions and advice.

One question still unanswered is whether my loader valve is open centered or not. Anyway to tell before cranking the tractor?

Looking at your early pictures I would say it is open centered. Looks like the loader tower was the hydraulic fluid reservoir. Looks like a simple pressure line in and out. Koyker loader install on a Yanmar

 

[Gary Sweat]

Simple test is to blow air into the "IN" line. If it's open port, the air will go through the valve.

Since the loader has it's own tank it means the control valve probably doesn't have a power beyond port. That may or may not be a problem. Some valves can take back pressure on the "return" or "tank" port and some cannot. The pressure will be created on the return port when you use the 3pt if you plan on cutting into the pressure line from the pump and connecting the return line back into the pump line from the return side of the valve. If the valve can't handle the pressure it will start leaking around the lever seals. If it does leak, you will have to get a different valve to replace the one on it.

 

[mtm88001]

Update:

Pretty much got the loader mounted and working.

I still need to remove all of the parts and paint the sub frame but I'm out of energy today..

 

[winston1]

Looks like you have a nice loader now.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Good job:thumbsup: The fit looks good on the tractor and you did it rather quickly too. If you haven't used a loader before, they take a little getting used to. Mostly in learning when the bucket is level. You will find a ton of uses for it. Nice work!

 

[mtm88001]

Ran the tractor around and noticed if I cut sharp the front tire tries to grab the sub frame. I'll have to cut a little more out of the way.
If I could only weld like a pro instead of a dirt dobber

When I was welding the support arm from the tower to the front of the tractor I had a hard time not blowing a hole in the lighter material. All I have is 1/8" rods, so I'm guessing a smaller rod would work better?

Need some bondo to fill in the holes

Any suggestions...

 

[Gary Sweat]

The guys in the welding section can probably tell you several ways to fix it. When I blow a hole in thinner metal I use a thicker piece to fit the hole or cover it and weld to that and let the weld travel to the thinner piece. Thicker piece will take more heat. Ideally it would be easier to fix with a wire feed welder but not everyone has one. I have both and rarely use the arc welder except for welding on the Case backhoe. I built my entire loader with the wire feed and so far no welds have broken.

 

[Kernopelli]

Awesome job! You will think you've died and gone to heaven and wonder how you ever did w/o it. Be careful though, there's a real learning curve to having a FEL on a tractor your used to running w/o one. It will help immensely to hang a box blade or other heavy implement on the back when using it. That counter weight will not only help it to lift more and get better traction but be safer too. Always travel with the bucket as low as possible. With the FEL, they are much easier to turn over in some situations so always remember it's a different machine now.

Again, great job!!