Loader Wheel Horse Loader, install on Yanmar

[mtm88001]

after seeing a better photo of the side profile, it looks to be more suitable to the tractor than originally thought:thumbsup:
one other thing you might think of, but only if you find you need to cut down the towers, the part I'm talking about is what connects to the sub-frame, think about going ahead and converting to a saddle type or pin type mount system, One that can allow a simple remove of the FEL if ever need be.
just a suggestion
here is a link of a video to what I'm suggesting do,:thumbsup:
Google Image Result for http://www.orangetractortalks.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/free-standing-front-end-loader.jpg

Great link...
At this point, I'm thinking of just bolting the loader on. I have a chain hoist and would be pretty easy to take out a few bolts and lift the loader. I'm sure I could figure out some type of quick detach setup but thinking about it seems to make my head hurt...:confused2:

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for the picks of the sub frame, I am currently trying to fabricate a frame to hold the front end loader. one obstacle currently is the darn drive shaft for the 4wd is right in the way of bolting a 1 piece sub frame. I am going to make a frame that bolts together, around the drive shaft. I will also have to fab the support arms that run to the front of the tractor.

I will update in a day or two with some pics when I get the frame bolted on.

Edit: Looking at the pics from Coldwater's site of his loaders gives me a better Idea of the sub frame construction for my 4wd loader.

I too built my loader, bucket and subframe. This is mounted on my Mitsubishi MTE2000D.......it's been pretty muddy here. I'm a little embarrassed to show these pics but I'll take the hit for the cause.:ashamed:

Here are two pics of the subframe, the first shows how I crossed over under the drive shaft. The short transition from 2x4x1/8" to smaller, heavier walled stock is how I was able to keep the subframe high on the tractor but still cross under the drive shaft. The second pic shows the side rails running to the rear axles. My design is obviously different than your needs since my loader arm uprights are actually welded to the subframe rails but you get the idea. With my subframe, it is a 2 piece unit. On each side there are two bolts at the rear axle, 4 bolts on the engine housing and then two bolts (shown) under the drive shaft....take those out and the subframe comes off and is in two identical pieces. The loader itself can be taken off by taking the 2 loader arm pins and 2 lift cylinder pins out and disconnecting 4 hydraulic quick connects and backing out away from the loader....leaving the subframe/uprights/joystick on the tractor. Everything is made out of 2x4x1/8 and is WAY heavier than needed for this design. I've had it on for 4-5 years now and had no issues whatsoever.

 

[mtm88001]

I too built my loader, bucket and subframe. This is mounted on my Mitsubishi MTE2000D.......it's been pretty muddy here. I'm a little embarrassed to show these pics but I'll take the hit for the cause.:ashamed:

Here are two pics of the subframe, ... Everything is made out of 2x4x1/8 and is WAY heavier than needed for this design. I've had it on for 4-5 years now and had no issues whatsoever.

Thanks for the pics, if you get a chance I would like to see how you mounted your frame to the rear of the tractor.

I will have to make a 2 pc unit as well to be able to mount the sub frame without having to disconnect the front drive shaft. Not even gonna touch that drive shaft...

I got most of my hydraulic pcs in. Bought 2 compression fittings from Hoye, great guys btw. Picked up 2 hyd hoses and fittings from TSC.

Also picked up some 12mm coarse threaded bolts to use on the existing mounts on the side and underneath of the tractor.

 

[California]

love my 2 wheels with loaders ... yanmar are the best steering tractor in 2 wheel. ... i am old school so give me a 2x4 ym2000 and i am good to go.

Well said.

Call me old school too. My YM240 (YM2000) is everything I need for a loader.

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for the pics, if you get a chance I would like to see how you mounted your frame to the rear of the tractor.

.

Here ya go. Man, I've got to break out the pressure washer soon, I'm flat ashamed of how dirty and scraped up she is right now!

 

[mtm88001]

Here ya go. Man, I've got to break out the pressure washer soon, I'm flat ashamed of how dirty and scraped up she is right now!

Thanks for the pic, gives me a good view of how I might attach mine.

Pressure washer!! might wash off that protective coating you got going

 

[Kernopelli]

Thanks for the pic, gives me a good view of how I might attach mine.

Pressure washer!! might wash off that protective coating you got going

Protective coating.....good point, what could penetrate 1/4" coating of mixed S. Illinois clay and spilled diesel?

 

[mtm88001]

Finally quit raining so I got some time in on the loader install..

Got a question for ya'll... Whats the best way to drill holes in this 1/4 metal..
I bought some titanium drill bits but they didn't work at all..

Working on rear mount...

 

[winston1]

No reason your drill bits shouldn't work. If drilling a larger hole (1/2" and up) you might want to drill a smaller pilot hole first. If you have had the metal red hot and dipped it in water you may have case hardened it.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Try using some cutting oil and a slower speed on the bit and as much pressure as you can put on it. Once the cut starts you shouldn't have any problem going through it. Like winston1 said, a smaller bit to start will make it easier.

High speed and heat will dull a drill bit very quickly.