Wheel motor off and to the doctor

[woodlandfarms]

So tonigh I yanked the wheepy wheel motor and will take it to the shop early AM. Plan is for me to leave the country for a movie until March, so the wife will go pick it up and put in on a shelf.

Spoke the the tech (we are surrounded by Hydraulics companies as we are a major logging area). He said that 75% of the time it isn't worth it to fix a white wheel motor, he says the cost of a new one is generally the same as the repair kit and labor. Also, he was not worried PT may have ground off the part numbers. He says it is pretty simple to figure it out. Oh, and that Wheel Motor Mount also had a broken bolt so I pulled it as well and put a new one on.

 

[SpringHollow]

Even if he fixes it, have him tell you the part number.

Hope it is pleasant weather where you are going (unless you need to shoot a winter scene).

Ken

 

[woodlandfarms]

Well. Movie has an issue so I am delayed. Tech said oh jeez when I handed him the motor. He said thats just off the top of his head it is the front seal. And that it 2k to replace the motor.

 

[MossRoad]

Ouch!

 

[woodlandfarms]

Well, now it gets interesting as it always does with me....

First, and I will confirm all of this when I pick the motor up (In 6 weeks, and not because of work - parts shipping). The number he gave me was 710930W2151AAA. In a quick look on the net it did not bring anything up but I can call white to confirm later.

Anyway, so the front seal is bad. But why you ask, well, its because the brake pads are broken up. I am going to try and go up and see what he is on about but it sounds like the brake gave up the ghost and its debris pushed on the seal. The motor shows usual scoring, nothing to be worried about, and he does not feel any debris from the brake has infiltrated the system. New motor, 2800. Rebuild this one, $1150.

Now the one thing I need to explore is the brake issue. When I took the wheel motor off, it was the usual flow of oil from all the hoses EXCEPT the brake hose. The hose actually felt dry This made no sense to me. I am going to have to dig into this issue, if there is one. I don't fully understand how the brake system works. Also, when I had the tractor up on jacks none of the wheels turned. Now not sure if that was due to oil pressure on the motor, but I have never felt my brakes didn't work 100%.

 

[SpringHollow]

Here is the breakdown of that part # (White 710930W2151AAA)
710 (710 Series), 930 (929 cm3/Rev, 56.7 in3/Rev Displacement), W2 (Wheel Brake Mount), 1 (7/8-14 UNF Port Size), 51 (55mm Tapered Shaft), A (Black), A (No Valve Cavity or Cartridge), A (Standard)

Ken

 

[ponytug]

The 1445 and larger machines have brakes that are kept off by pressure. If you have an open line, there will be no pressure in the system and your brakes will be on fulling.

Think of it as the hydraulic version of semi-trucks' air brake system. If the pressure drops, the brakes go on. i.e. engine stall, resulting in low pressure. White describes this feature as "hydraulic negative disc brakes". Pressure on, brakes off, / pressure off, brakes on.

I think on the slope mowers, the pressure is generated by the brake tender, right?

All the best,

Peter

P.S. This figure from White may help you:
View attachment parts-list-710-712.pdf
The brake goes on with 25 springs, off with the hydraulic pressure, and yes, the brake is right by the outside seal.

 

[woodlandfarms]

AHHHHH A clutch type brake, not a wheel type brake. Thanks for the take apart....

So, just saw on the internet taking one of these motors apart actually isn't that big of a deal. Not that I am going to trust myself to it (yet, I do take engines apart and don't sweat it).

Well, it is going to suck not having a tractor for 5 weeks if my movie cancels. Grumble, was so sure we had the green light. Guess I am going to do all the maintenance I promise to do but never do, like readjust the valves and take my treddle apart.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is the breakdown of that part # (White 710930W2151AAA)
710 (710 Series), 930 (929 cm3/Rev, 56.7 in3/Rev Displacement), W2 (Wheel Brake Mount), 1 (7/8-14 UNF Port Size),
51 (55mm Tapered Shaft), A (Black), A (No Valve Cavity or Cartridge), A (Standard)

Wow, that's a big motor, Ken. I see why it is so expensive.

I see in PONY's parts list that White sells a seal kit. Why not get it and DIY? I like White,
and I have purchased their motors in the past. I like how accessible the maker's specs are.

Also, WOODLAND, consider that you may only need shaft seals, which you can get from
an aftermarket supplier.

 

[MossRoad]

So reading this on 710 wheel motors...

http://whitedriveproducts.com/conte...-brake-units/service-instructions-710-712.pdf

the first paragraph...

"NOTE: Because of the dif culties involved in servicing the 610 & 710 series', White Drive Products strongly recommends return-
ing the units to the factory for service. To obtain return authorization, contact your nearest White Drive Products distributor."